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Printing issues ...
I've been testing FW 0.82 and Host 0.85b this week, and I'm seeing that when I enable OPS 1 or 2, the print stops on the first retract, and then the print does not progress. Has anyone else seen this?
So far, I have only tested with AzteegX3.
by
jcabrer
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Repetier
There are parameters that you can set, both in the firmware (eeprom in the latest version) and in the host, where you can define the "shape" of your printer. It sounds like you may have mismatched values here. Double check and make sure you have values that make sense, keeping in mind that in most cases, the range of motion is greater than the size of the bed.
What I mean by that is that the b
by
jcabrer
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Repetier
The hissing sound is probably coming from your stepper driver. It might be that the current is turned up too high. Be careful, as the stepper motor can get very hot, and burn you. Try adjusting youe E0 driver POT down just a bit, and see if the hissing goes away.
by
jcabrer
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General
The simplest way to start your prints from a position other than True Home (0,0,0) is to put something like the following into the start.gcode file (Skeinforge), or whatever the equivalent is for your slicer
G28 X0.0 Y0.0 Z0.0 <Homes the machine
G1 X30.0 Y10.0 Z0.2 <Moves to the desired offset home position
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 E0 <Make the offset home position the new origin for XY
by
jcabrer
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General
Are you printing using PLA, or ABS?
In theory, the roughened glass provides slightly more surface area than a flat, but it also has the potential to trap air, so in high humidity environments, it would have the opposite effect.
If you can afford a little more for glass, get borosilicate, A.K.A. Pyrex Glass. It has a much better adhesion than ordinary picture frame/window pane glass. 1/8 inch
by
jcabrer
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General
This is from a draft document that I haven't gotten around to completing. I think it will get you where you need. Keep in mind that this document makes reference to a printer that is not a RepRap, but uses the Sanguinololu electronics.
Don't try to use the files you already have. Start from scratch.
Getting Started with the Tjiko Snap3D
Glossary
Arduino IDE – This is the development environ
by
jcabrer
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General
I just this week needed to clean the glas on a machine I took to the office, and I didn;t have alcohol, so I used Goo Gone, which I believe is mostly citrus terpenes and petoleum based others.
I applied it while the bed was hot, and the result was noticeable. The stickyness of the ABS remains, even after cooling. The glass was BSG.
by
jcabrer
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General
You might consider printing a new extruder for yourself once you get the hang of it. The Wade's extruder (which you have) is a bit dated, although I have to admit that I have been using one reliably for about three years.
There are new designs that address the issues associated with changing filament. My current favorite is the UniX-Wade by Chri, coupled with my own addons and and and
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jcabrer
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General
Posible Causes to Investigate:
1. If using printed pulleys, make sure the pulley is not slipping on the motor shaft. Also check the temperature of the motor, but BE CAREFUL! It can get really hot, if the driver current is too high.
2. Driver current is a little too low. A cold motor during print might indicate this. You will also notice this if there is little resistance from the motor whe
by
jcabrer
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General
Good support is not a matter of this slicer or that slicer being better, or worse. The thing about support (and everything else about this hobby) is that there is a balancing act to get things right. With support, knowing what your machine is capable of is just as important as your slicer's configuration settings. The design of the model is also important.
When we talk about support in the re
by
jcabrer
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General
Get it from the source. The J-Head design is the brainchild of Brian Reifsnyder, and his web site is HotEnds.com. We should support the real developers as much as possible.
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jcabrer
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General
I think to ask this question properly, you have to first establish the criteria. For each criteria, a special object must be designed that pushes the envelope.
Just for example...
1. Speed Test. This object needs to be big, and take up most of the build volume, to insure we can see how the head behaves throughout the range of motion. It should be hollow as much as possible, and consist of a
by
jcabrer
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General
Try these settingsas a starting point:
-alteration-
The alteration parameters cause skeinforge to append extra information at the beginning and end of the g-code sequence. Since the stl file does not know what kind of machine it will be printed on, there is now way to embed initialization information into the stl. Alteration lets us tell the snap3d what we want it to do before it starts printi
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jcabrer
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General
To make good use of the nipple, you must have a level bed, heated bed, and ABS dialed in at the right temperature. Printing on glass even better. PLA is too gooey for the nipples, IMO.
by
jcabrer
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General
Any belt that is properly tensioned will not slip, unless you are using printed pulleys. Are you trying to arrest vibration? If so, you can place an idler against the belt at some optimal position.
by
jcabrer
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General
OK. I use the J-Head hot end myself, although I have never experience the backflow problem there. This may be because I'm printing with ABS, which does not cause the problem as often as PLA.
Asuming this is your problem, let me first explain the what and why of it.
PLA and ABS are not just the print material. They are also part of the cooling system of the printer. You see, as you print, th
by
jcabrer
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General
Turn off the backlash compensation feature in Skeinforge, and address the backlash problem on the printer itself. The Lash module is hardly a fix. Make sure you have the correct pulleys for your belts. I can't tell you how many people are using the wrong pulleys, but you can bet that it's the ones with backlash problems.
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jcabrer
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General
1. Never connect or disconnect a motor without turning off power. This will fry a Pololu.
2. The motor will never turn (easily) by hand when energized. It will also be difficult to turn if it is plugged in.
3. Try running the motor from the X-Axis connector at the board, not at the motor. If it turns there, you know it is not the motor or the cable. Make sure not to activate the endstop sw
by
jcabrer
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General
1. Make sure the small gear on the extruder is not slipping.
2. Check that you can push filament through by hand with little force. Make sure to loosen the ider completely.
3. If you cannot push easily, you probably have a backflow condition. This can happen if the tip was left hot for an extended period without printing.
What kind of hot end are you using?
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jcabrer
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General
Dark Alchemist Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Tony seems to be out of 25 dollar ones and is at
> 37 and 14 shipping.
Tony's Listings expire on Fridays, which is probably why you are not seeing much in the selection. I just gave him a call, and he says he will have new listings up in about $40 minutes. The $25 for five deal is my price, because we're nei
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jcabrer
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General
Dark Alchemist Wrote:
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> I like your BOM and wondering where you are
> getting the steppers at for 5 a piece and the
> other hardware items (threaded and smooth rods) at
> for those prices. Do you have a bom up with all
> of the sources because that is 150 less than I
> could get but I went with a rumba at 99 so 100
> mo
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jcabrer
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General
Let's just assume you don't have anything free laying around. And lets go with the cheapest price.
QTY 5 NEMA 17 Stepper Motors $25.00
QTY 1 Sanguinololu Unassembled $35.00 (eBay - From China)
QTY 4 StepStick Drivers $7.50 (eBay - From China)
QTY 1 J-Head Hot End $54.99 (Hotends.com, I would not go with a cheap substitute on this)
QTY 12 LM8UU Linear Bearings $12.00 (AliExpress.com)
QTY 1 Pow
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jcabrer
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General
No. The layers are inherent in the printing method.
You can post-process the part in any number of ways for making molds
1. Wax Dip.
2. Acetone vapor for 30 - 60 seconds.
3. Sand Paper
4. Auto Body Filler.
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jcabrer
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General
I'm not sure the maximum baudrate would suffice. With repetier host and firmware, you would typically run at 250000 Baud.
I don't think the wixel can get even close to that. I looked, but did not see anything in the specs.
by
jcabrer
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General
The RepRapPro Mendel is just a Prusa Mendel, re-branded. You can expect the same performance as you would get from any other Prusa. That is to say that if you use nice belts, with non-printed pulleys, tight bearings, tight frame, etc. you can get decent prints. Depending on how fast you run the feed rate, and how good or bad the extruder hobbing is, you will have some variability.
I would be
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jcabrer
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General
What we are advising is that you NOT use 608 bearings, because they cause MORE, not LESS Z wobble.
As Nophead has pointed out, even the M8 threaded rod is not a perfect fit, so even if you had the rod captive at both ends, you probably would have a small amount of acentricity (is that even a word). It probably wouldn't bother me, but Nophead strives for better results, so you are getting slight
by
jcabrer
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General
I think this would fit the bill, although you would definately incurr additional baggage cost at the counter.
a flightcase for a prusa by crankbmx
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jcabrer
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General
The threaded rod on a Prusa should be around 9" long.
I don't think I have seen a design yet that properly makes use of flex couplings, and roller bearings, so leaving the rods free will minimize the Z-wobble, assuming the rods are perfectly straight.
If you do ever want a tighter z-axis, you would need a stack something like this:
NEMA17 motor M5 Shaft - M5/M8 Aluminum Flex Coupling - M8 Nut
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jcabrer
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General
@Prober: Not really sure if you have made your request clear. Are you suggesting a printable building set, or advocating for a web site like cuusoo, or something else?
Cuusoo is Lego's way of figuring out what kits people would like to see in the future, while harnessing the skills of amateur lego builders.
by
jcabrer
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General
If you printer's parts are NOT made from PLA, you can try covering the printer with a couple of thick towels, and print using normal ABS settings. This will make use of the heated bed to keep the air warm (around 70°C). A cold room won't help, so turn up the temperature a little if it is cold in your hemisphere this time of year.
by
jcabrer
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General