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win 7 64
version for win 64 0.9.6dev
80%
the stl is fixed by netfab online
no warning in netfab basic
do I something wrong ?
the files are from thingiverse:
thank you
by
jf pion
-
Slic3r
look like i step on a bug
by
jf pion
-
Slic3r
got it !!!
in this marlin issue list :
i found the M400 command ( not even mentionned in the wiki)
M400 wait for the buffer to clear
and it's working, look like the G28 command is not buffered but the movements G1 are
so it was skipped
with
G28 Z0
G1 F1800.000 Z10.000 ; positionne à 10 de haut
M400
G28 ; home all axes
I will be sure there won't be any crash on the hot bed and no crash on th
by
jf pion
-
Slic3r
got it !!!
in this marlin issue list :
i found the M400 command ( not even mentionned in the wiki)
M400 wait for the buffer to clear
and it's working, look like the G28 command is not buffered but the movements G1 are
so it was skipped
with
G28 Z0
G1 F1800.000 Z10.000 ; positionne à 10 de haut
M400
G28 ; home all axes
I will be sure there won't be any crash on the hot bed and no crash on t
by
jf pion
-
Firmware - mainstream and related support
ok nothing is working
i tried the simple thing (the only lines of gcode)
G28 Z0
G1 F1800.000 Z10.000 ; positionne à 10 de haut
G28 ; home all axes
I get the z homing
no movement up
x/y/z homing
what do I wrong ?
by
jf pion
-
Slic3r
i try this simple gcode:
G28 Z0
G1 F1800.000 Z10.000 ; positionne à 10 de haut
G28 ; home all axes
there is the Z homing
no movement of z to up
x/y/z homing
so what's wrong ?
by
jf pion
-
Firmware - mainstream and related support
i think i'read somewhere a post about pb with these chips, the length of the command impulses must be far longer than for the polulu so the pwm need to be adjusted
by
jf pion
-
Firmware - mainstream and related support
I will try thank you
I will try also to add G21 before the move, may be marlin want to know the unit it must move before moving
and it don't work always not only on power up, is marlin memorising the last position after a print ?
I think it does
thank you
by
jf pion
-
Firmware - mainstream and related support
Sublime Wrote:
>
> You did not have a speed set.
>
> Also you will want it to home before moving up and
> to the center like. It is also a good idea to have
> the hotend up to temp before homing so it does not
> crash into the bed. This code will find the first
> layer temp set in the config and put it at the
> beginning.
>
> M109 S ; preheat hotend before ho
by
jf pion
-
Slic3r
hello
I try to understand how it's working and i still have issue
I want at the begining of the print the head goes up 10 mm to avoid the glass bed fixation before homing
so I add
G90
G1 Z10 ; positionne à 10 de haut
G28 ; home all axes
at the start gcode in slicer 9.6 dev
I got
M190 S110 ; wait for bed temperature to be reached
M104 S240 ; set temperature
G90
G1 Z10 ; positionne à 10 de hau
by
jf pion
-
Firmware - mainstream and related support
hello
I try to understand how it's working and i still have issue
I want at the begining of the print the head goes up 10 mm to avoid the glass bed fixation before homing
so I add
G90
G1 Z10 ; positionne à 10 de haut
G28 ; home all axes
at the start gcode in slicer 9.6 dev
I got
M190 S110 ; wait for bed temperature to be reached
M104 S240 ; set temperature
G90
G1 Z10 ; positionne à 10 d
by
jf pion
-
Slic3r
NewPerfection Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Maybe your RAMPS kit came with an inferior MOSFET.
don't know, add a new one from farnell get very hot too so I use it to drive an automotive relay, it's working great as marlin doesn't use pwm for the hotbed (or a very slow frequency one, look more like bang controle)
> I've run the Prusa heated PCB beds b
by
jf pion
-
RAMPS Electronics
NewPerfection Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I use a solid state relay to control my heated
> bed, it has a low enough current draw and voltage
> requirement that it can be run directly off of an
> Arduino if you so desire. My heated bed runs on
> AC current at about 2.5 amps, 120 V, which gives
> almost 300 W of heater power. The only
> di
by
jf pion
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RAMPS Electronics
thanks
do you have a schematic of your system (don't need to re design some thing allready done ) and the detail of the modification in the firmware
thank you
by
jf pion
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RAMPS Electronics
hello, I recently burned my hot bed transistor from a ready made ramps. There was no heat sink and I think it's a mistake.
any way as I'm building a bigger printer, the hotbed will be bigger and I will need twice or more the power.
is there a known and tested way to add extrenal power board ?
I 'm thinking to add a pnp transistor and 2 -3 resistor to drive multi cheaper mos fet with a 12V gate
by
jf pion
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RAMPS Electronics
j'ai résolu le pb de la surchauffe du mosfet du heatbed en lui faisant commander un relais auto 12V, ça marche très bien et à part un leger cliqueti on n'entend rien
valable seulement pour le heatbed, la frequence etant faible.
le mosfet même avec un radiateur est un peu faible pour le courant demandé, la tension de commande (3.3V) etant trop faible pour le saturer complètement
un petit défau
by
jf pion
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RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
I think the basic option must be "filling the hollow wall" activated, if you want only the wall, you can set the infill to 0
there is no use to be able to print small part with no strength
by
jf pion
-
Slic3r
il y a ça
pour commencer
il faut
le fimware sprinter, et l'interface pronterface (ça se trouve avec google
le logiciel arduino pour mettre le firmware dans le microcontroller
A+
by
jf pion
-
RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
je n'ai pris que l'arduino+ramps+drivers+smartcontroller, le hot bed je l'avais déja, et il est trop petit pour ma nouvelle machine :
par contre j'ai fait une boite pour l'électronique : destinée à etre posée sur l'alim PC 480W pour ventiler tout avec le ventilo de l'alim.
by
jf pion
-
RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
le plus simple est là
envoi rapide, et si tu les contactes juste pour les thermistors, ça peut peut etre aller dans une enveloppe simpe pour moins cher de port
by
jf pion
-
RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
the files are here:
new add the x carriage with transverse wade extruder in one piece , sliced in 2 parts for easy printing
the others parts will follow (it is nearly completed, need only the small part like x belt fixation ant tensioner, end course switch support)
and i have to make the bed ant its fixation
I'm doing that for the electronic
by
jf pion
-
Reprappers
next try
with the attached STL 0.4 height 0,8 width the first layer is ok , 3 widths no gap as seen in the first pict
but the next layers there is only 2 width and a gap
that the perfect demonstration there is a flaw in the algorithm
sometime it take the right filling some time not
thank you
by
jf pion
-
Slic3r
I try to print the attached stl (a switch support for the y end course) I get the path as in the first pic
nozzle 0.5 , 0.35 height and extrusion width 0.5 everywhere in advanced tab
the print is as expected totally hollow with no structural strength so useless
when i slice it with Kisslicer with the same configuration i get the path as the second pict and the print is totally filled with a no
by
jf pion
-
Slic3r
hello when I try to slice the attached stl, i got some weird things on the small part on the left as shown in the pict
the tooth are 1.2mm wide the conf is 0.5 extrusion width 0.35 heigt extruder 0.5
why so thin tooth ?
an another bug to deal with
thank you
by
jf pion
-
Slic3r
rhmorrison Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I have been printing PLA exclusively for over 2
> years now (with a heated bed the last year) and do
> not need any fan.
it's depend what you print and with which PLA
I found very difficult without fan to print one width wall quite high or very small bits
with the fan it's ok on the first try, so why taking th
by
jf pion
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Reprappers
nophead Wrote:
>
> Maybe. I don't really know without experimenting.
> I don't use fans because I find a draught causes
> ABS parts to warp and lift off the bed. People
> seem to state the opposite with PLA.
i'm thinking about 2 fans: one for the upper part of the hotend to cool the cold side of the hot end which could be always on also with the abs with a duct to avoid blowing
by
jf pion
-
Reprappers
Here some picture of the frame
the total cost of the aluminum square tube is around 20 euro (no more than 30 or go to an another shop !)
it is quite stiff even if all the pieces are not screwed an lighter than a normal mendel
the plastic parts are in ABS
10 mm smooth and threaded rod
do you think a file for thingiverse would be useful ?
by
jf pion
-
General Mendel Topics
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Pages: 12345