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hi all, have seen this term mentioned a couple of times - could somebody please explain what it is
thank you roger.
by
rogerw
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General
thanks twitchy thats great (i can never find anything from the reprap mainpage).
so looks like the brass end screws into the PEEK holder. then some PTFE tube goes up the middle. the filament slides inside the PFTE tube.
the thermistor goes in the very end of the brass bit. this (on mine) is then all covered in kapton tape.
mine also seems to have the heat sink.
roger
by
rogerw
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General
magicald, well done. can you take a picture of the bit you changed for me please. some of these terms are still flying over my head.
roger.
by
rogerw
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General
twitchy, not sure what sort i have - have sent email to find out.
is the hotend just a piece of steel with a hole drilled down the middle or is hollow instead. is it a thermister that does all the heating up work - is that just wrapped around the steel bit or does it go inside somehow.
and i suppose there must ne some sort of temperature probe as well.
does any body have a cut away drawing of one
by
rogerw
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General
hotend - 11 years ago
hi all,
can someone explain to me how the hot end works. what it looks like under all the kapton tape.
ta,
roger.
by
rogerw
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General
that would be the wrong photo.
anyway further to what i said. i think my first layer instead of coming out as a bead is coming out just as smear (because i have the height wrong or something expanded on the hot day). think maybe the plastic has nowhere to go when it is not coming out properly.
doing 15 loops of smear can't be good (thought it would be ok when it got to the 2nd layer). the
print
by
rogerw
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General
hi all,
does the kapton tape wear out (apart from obvious holes and tears). does it lose its ability to remove prints.
mine parts lately seem to be sticking like super glue - can't get them off. (have had the printer for 3 weeks).
is there a good site on how to replace the tape.
thanks roger.
by
rogerw
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General
tiny, which program would generate the error - repitier? slic3r?
i don't think anything is physically broken - i seem to be able to print 1 layer wide dia 60 rings ok.
starting to suspect that is siomething to do with the first layer.
my first layer on rings is quite round, where as for parts with fill or whatever it really flattens the first layer out.
i have been using a 15 loop skirt (wide br
by
rogerw
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General
sypher does your print look like mine in "back to crap" post - under GENERAL forum
rogerw
by
rogerw
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Printing
the other thing ive noticed is that my bed is not flat - is higher at the edges thna in the middle (both directions) is this normal??
as you can see from the photo i can easily slip a folder piece of paper thru the gap.
by
rogerw
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General
thanks brnrd - will do. have a few other little test i want to do as well.
by
rogerw
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General
tiny - i stopped the print
by
rogerw
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General
all seems well - see photo from overnight print.
brnrd have attached a picture of my hot and extruder.
i'm not sure what sort of hotend it is. (does anyone have a sectional drawing of a hotend so i can understand what it does).
am i allowed to just pull the filament out of the hotend willy nilly. have been doing this to make sure the extruder was working and then'
manually pushing filament thru t
by
rogerw
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General
richrap, i just had a play with another part, did a pause wihile printing amd then said x home which took the hotend away and then when i did resume it when back again
roger,
by
rogerw
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Competitions
10 past 11 at night and finally printing again. have spent all night try to get this going. i have a bowden setup.
the extruder just didn't seem to be pushing thru the plastic ie. marked a spot and said send thru 30mm/min and would only send thru 5-10mm.
i took the tube off the hotend and said to send thru another 30mm and it would - even when i had a lot of pressure on the filamnet from my thum
by
rogerw
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General
hi all.,
have been printing great stuff (for me) during the week at night (seee photo).
but today have gone back to my prev morse code yucky crap.
the only thing i have changed is that it is day time (a hot day 31C).
will wait to tonight and see if anything is better again.
can the day temp make such a difference? doesn't seem to get much comment if it does?
roger.
by
rogerw
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General
richrap, am going to try to add the cardboard/kapton inseert in for my bridging. i asume i do a pause at the correct layer (just before bridging).
am bit worried that when i pause it will melt a hole whereever it is the nozzle stops - is this a big concern - is there a way around it. should i add some thing in the gcode to say move the nozzle away then then do a pause??
thanks
roger.
by
rogerw
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Competitions
thanks richrap,
im printing a part right now which has a 2mm rebate on the bottom . i used support but the support lines were starting to loose their grip on the bed. not sure what it will look like. i think i will lay in the 2mm shape (a hex) with kapton on top - love that idea.
thank you
roger
by
rogerw
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Competitions
VDX - was really thinking of printing vertically - but would still love to see the results of your cheating if you have time.
rogerw
PS. do people sometimes put things into a print as it is going eg. embed a nut? or add some support structure
by
rogerw
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Competitions
'C' is the original part I was making OD 12.7 ID 9 (with my first reprap hole)
halved that for
'B' OD 6.35 ID 4
and then
'A' the staligmite failed to be hollow but stood tall at OD 3.175 ID 2mm
roger
by
rogerw
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Competitions
hi all,
was printing a tall tube (OD 12.7, ID 9) for a part i needed and thought it
would be good challenge to see the smallest diameter tube we could print.
ie. tall and skinny might fall or be pulled over or melt
sorry no prises just the challenge.
so has to be 95mm high (thats as high as i can go - i want to print some too)
has to be min 0.4 dia nozzle
PLA
has to be hollow - like a needle
wide
by
rogerw
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Competitions
no she doesn't . doesn't normally come into MY office either. will only last a week....
by
rogerw
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General
i get this with squares but is perfect if i do a tube (ie. round). have you tried that? maybe indicates a cornering problem
by
rogerw
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General
hi, i'm using pla but have had problems with my extruder of late
my problems all ended up being that my hotend was too close to the bed. this prevented the
filament coming out correctly which put pressure on the extruder and then it would start stripping the filament and then stop.
i raised my hotend only 0.1mm (via the Z value in slic3r) and is working 100 times better.
hope this helps,
roger.
by
rogerw
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General
magicald - have the same problem - don't know how to fix it - will be interested to see what the pros say
roger
by
rogerw
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General
well did all of the above and left my print to run overnight.......
came back this morning and as i approached the office door (office is outside connected to my shed - very civilised) I could hear the machine still printing, Ohhh ohhh it can't be still printing after 6 hours. It was my wife on the treadmill (didn't even know she knew we had a treadmill).
Not sure who got the biggest fright/su
by
rogerw
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General
ohh goodness - sorry repitier - yes i did play around with that - love your program.
thanks
roger.
by
rogerw
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Repetier
just noticed that that screen shot was version 0.74 and is now 0.80 - does repitier update automatically to the new version?
by
rogerw
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Repetier
nothing changes if i select any of the 3 radio buttons.
not seeing anything on manual control screen either - this is what i use to see.
by
rogerw
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Repetier
hi 3eality,
found my problem . my hotend was too close to the bed (set z to .1 to raise it a bit in slic3r and fixed it). being too close then didn't
let any plastic out, put pressure on extruder and then it starter to slip. this then dug a hole in the filament. after i fixed it by manually pushin the filament along a bit the hole that had been dug seemed to be getting stuck
at the start of the
by
rogerw
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General