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I would like to configure my printer with at least 4, maybe 6 or 8 hotends, I think I have figured out a way to drive all with a single stepper and use another stepper to switch between them. What I am unfamiliar (ignorant) with is how to control the hotends individually and what additional electronics would be needed. My printer uses Arduino Mega and Ramps. Where do I start?
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Bill Clark
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General
I have been using water for some time. With my setup most of the issues of clogging/stripping have more to do with the forces needed to push plastic through the nozzle and less so with the thermal break. Printing high temp materials is were I think water really shines. Below 300c the air cooled heat sink works great. You will probably find that the coiled copper is more than sufficient without th
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Bill Clark
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General
mine isn't too bad either. Looks far worse in the photo I posted than actual. Parts I make are usually very small so its more obvious. My rib spacing didn't jive with belt pitch rather seemed to match the cogging of the stepper. I plan to eventually put x, y or both through a reduction to see the effect
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Bill Clark
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General
Was this problem ever solved? I have had a similar problem here- although it doesn't always appear so pronounced. Played with acceleration and tweaked the driver POT's but no change. I did notice an effect on this issue during a recent print, I typically print slow (20-40mm/sec) but decided to crank up the speed to 400% and although things started to get a little sloppy, somewhere between 100 an
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Bill Clark
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General
QuoteMrDoctorDIV
I've been looking for gear reducers for NEMA motors, but just about every one I've seen is either an odd ratio [99.05:1, labeled as 100:1], extremely high price [~$1285], or require a minimum quantity of 100 or so.
Is there a place I can get one with an even/flat ratio ? Either NEMA 17 or 23 fits are just fine with me. I'm specifically looking for 40 and 20 to 1 ratios for 5 micr
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Bill Clark
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General
I think you made a great choice with the UM A2. I wont even bother raising my BP by commenting on MB.
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Bill Clark
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I have several suggestions. some or all may be useless though-
I looked at hotends,com > J-head and it said 247c is tops. At 248 it melts. Since youre running real close to that maybe its already damaged
I live in central FL and I have yet to notice significant issues with moisture and ABS printing indoors. I did have the machine out in the garage a while back and would hear and occasional ste
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Bill Clark
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Printing
I'm sure someone has the tools to create a 3D model using images from the video at the bottom of the article. But who???
Congratulations to the ESA. This is an amazing accomplishment
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Bill Clark
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General
I have had problems in the past and reduced the Advanced>Extrusion width> Support material percentage (80-90%??).
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Bill Clark
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Slic3r
have you been able to find any raw material or pellets? I'm always looking for different materials to push through my filament maker
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Bill Clark
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General
Looking for PETG on the net says its the same as PET or is it something else?. I use the Taulman T-Glase which is PET. I like it. No odor, stiffer than ABS, excellent layer bonding. The surface texture isn't quite as smooth as ABS. I use low or no bed heat at a pretty high extrusion temp of 260c through a .25mm orifice with good results on relatively small parts.
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Bill Clark
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General
I haven't tried PLA but 3M Scotch Weld will bond incredibly well to aluminum
We use it to bond polycarbonate canopy bubbles to aluminum skin and you can't break the bond. The plastic fails first. Also automotive 'panel bond' has similar performance to the scotch weld
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Bill Clark
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General
The CA appears to work in the same way as ABS juice in regard to the fumes fusing the layers. Another thing I like about it is the part finishes better when bead blasted.
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Bill Clark
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General
The only thing I find expensive about filament is the initial cost for the variety I have. As for actual usage, for me , a spool lasts a long time. My prints are never really 'large' so I may get 25 or more parts from a single spool. Don't actually know for sure. Havent finished a spool yet.
Relative to the time I have invested in those 25 or so parts, electricity to run the machine, etc. the co
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Bill Clark
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you da man A2
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Bill Clark
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I would like to start experimenting with PEEK. I was thinking initially of getting a bigger band heater and PID for my Filastruder (and possibly a different barrel material) and giving it a go. PEEK's melting point is around 340c. The first thing I need to determine is how many watts that will take. Anyone with heater knowledge please suggest a power requirement. The components are fairly cheap b
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Bill Clark
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General
a quick search hear didn't show anything so I thought I would pass this along. A machinist friend (who also has a printer) told me a trick for making fixtures for machine work. Basically print the fixture then soak it in Cyanoacrylate (CA), aka superglue, over night. Once the glue has cured you are left with a very stout piece that is hard and wont delaminate. Personally I haven't soaked anything
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Bill Clark
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thanks guys
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Bill Clark
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thanks Dick.
Macsoft, should have what you need. I like the belt idea, quite, no backlash. If you use sdp's belt calculator its easy to figure out what you need
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Bill Clark
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General
ya, I would like to know where the geared nema 17's are too pleeeezzze......
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Bill Clark
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I like it and plan to start working on a design utilizing this approach. I think the reason everyone isn't biting on this is because the "standard" performs ok in normal use. Besides not everyone has mills and lathes to go bang this stuff out. I'm way outside the box on my current project and this is exactly what I need. Thanks
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Bill Clark
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Mechanics
Where can I find these or an equivalent? Reprap wiki mentions them as Cyntec PT1000 1K ohm for use over 500c.
thanks.
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Bill Clark
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General
I'm trying to understand exactly how it works. does the filament go all the way in between the rollers and does the filament side opposite of the rollers ride on the housing keeping it engaged? with only a few teeth engaged the results are impressive. seems you could engage many more teeth if needed
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Bill Clark
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Mechanics
Dick, how many of those teeth are engaged at one time? I'm really starting to dislike the machined bolt thing. It's really becoming a problem for what I am doing now and this looks like a good solution. You are running a 100:1 planetary on a nema 23 or 17?
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Bill Clark
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Mechanics
at my local hobby shop. K&S is the brand. 1/8"x .015"wall. K&S stock # is 127. You could probably order it online. Ebay would surely have something. An old telescoping antenna could be hacked also
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Bill Clark
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here is a pic of mine. Better get it quick before takerbot patents it
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Bill Clark
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General
insert a fish mouthed piece of tubing, about 1/8th" in dia. down the hole. It should bottom on the cone shaped entrance on the E3D. The fishmouthed end should fit in between the bearing and the drive tightly but not touching. make sure the tube is secure so it doesn't move up into the moving parts on retraction. Since the filament has low column strength this gives it support. Now when it strips
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Bill Clark
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General
I love the Darth Vader analogy [3dprintingindustry.com] . Greed.... Its a terrible thing. I guess when you manufacture a product and the competition offers a equal if not superior product for half the price you tend to panic. Pathetic fairy
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Bill Clark
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thanks for pulling A2's thread back up. missed it originally. now I have plenty of bathroom reading to do
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Bill Clark
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