I'm using an led with a 20 degree light cone, so it creates a spotlight next to the hotend, it doesn't light the whole build area. To light the hole table I think you might have to add an led strip or at least several leds and mount them on the inside of the case.by lajos - Tantillus
I found myself standing over the tantillus with a flashlight too much, so I made an LED mount for the carriage. Takes a 5mm LED and goes between the top and bottom carriage replacing a washer. Files available on github in the Extras folder.by lajos - Tantillus
Wow, those reprap walmart prices are incredible! That's half of what I pay for my PLA. Is shipping time reasonable?by lajos - Tantillus
Seeing your white printed parts makes me want to build one, too. That will look super cool with some lights inside! I've printed some replacement parts for my tantillus with "normal" support from Sublime's kisslicer settings and the support does help a lot even with screw holes and it's really easy to remove.by lajos - Tantillus
I tried tightening and loosening the idler, that didn't help, so I guess it must have been a piece of stretched filament in the bowden. I'll give the red one a try again, it does look really nice with a very consistent diameter.by lajos - Tantillus
So I finally ran out of my ebay black pla, and loaded up some beautiful red from a highly recommended seller from the general forum. The filament is 2.8mm, same as my black one was. But when I was loading the filament, about 100mm from the head the extruder started making crazy noises and the filament stopped I though maybe it was because the bowden cable was in a funny position with no filamentby lajos - Tantillus
I looked at the Revolution (looks aswesome and the price is great, hope it will do well), and I think we are comparing apples and oranges. You have two steppers per axis, I have one. You have the stepper open air, mounted to a large block of aluminum which probably acts as a heat sink, mine is pretty well enclosed mounted to insulating material (mdf). I'm using an azteeg x1 with ti suresteprs (pby lajos - Tantillus
Only one question remains: Why did you not send the printer back?by lajos - General
> following the retraction calibration I completely missed the retraction calibration. I'll do that. I see now how the speed setting in kisslicer doesn't have an effect, but lowering prime and suck to 3mm seemed to help. I do have the pro version of kisslicer, I wanted to contribute to help development. Other than setting crowning to 3, are there any other features of the pro version that heby lajos - Tantillus
> Microchip has the MCP23008 I2C port expander that Thanks for the suggestion. I'll look into it. I've found some other reprap LCD projects, but this chip seems to be a very elegant solution.by lajos - Tantillus
Hi Chelsea- Thanks for your message. I realized that I used the wrong wording in my post, so I fixed that. First I want to say that I really appreciate what you guys are doing. Your store is set up great, you show stock level, and ship fast. Both orders I placed with you arrived at my door in 3 days, well packaged. I also agree with what you said in your kickstarter video: there are certain parby lajos - Tantillus
I use linuxcnc (emc) on my cnc machine with a geckodrive g540 driver, 3.5A NEMA34s at 40V, 1/10 microstep. The cutting area of my machine is ~10x10". The forces involved in cnc milling are very different than 3d printing. You will need more current and voltage than an allegro stepper can provide. Linuxcnc is super reliable, open source, and extremely powerful. There are open source cam programby lajos - General
I haven't ordered an Arduino from China, but buy electronic components and boards from Chinese sellers on ebay, never had an issue. Remember that 100% of electronics that you own was manufactured in China and an Arduino is not that complicated (an atmega, a power regulator, a bunch of headers and some misc resistors and such. However shipping will take some time. To the US it's anywhere betweenby lajos - General
Thanks for all the info. It makes sense that laser cutting removes some material and that's why my corners wouldn't snap on. I have a couple LCDs just like the ones you linked. I have to find out if I have enough pins, or do I need to make an i2c driver for it. I haven't thought about tensioning for the gears. I've used the same gears on my CNC extruder, and they are holding up pretty good. I sby lajos - Tantillus
My Tantillus is finally working very reliably, prints beautifully, so I though I would post some info about it. As you'll see it's not complete yet (e.g. no LCD until I make one, I just refuse to pay $70 for something that costs $5 to make). This project started some time ago, I have a CNC machine that I run using linuxcnc. I designed and built an extruder, hotend and hotend controller for it, aby lajos - Tantillus
Thanks, all that makes sense. I picked front left for home as it matches the way my cnc is set up, so doesn't require my brain rotating coordinate systems. And sometimes my kids play with the gears, with the carriage in the front I only have to retighten the front and side cables when they are done ; )by lajos - Tantillus
I'm ready to upload the tantillus firmware, but I have a question before I mess something up. You mentioned that the firmware does homing different. What do you mean by that? Does the firmware assume (0,0) position where the head is set at power on? Currently I have home in front left. My x axis goes left (x=0) to right (x=100). My y axis goes from front (y=0) to back (y=100). Can I achieve thaby lajos - Tantillus
Last night I got my first jam. The extruder was making some crazy noises, so I thought something fell into the gears or a gear broke, so I took the extruder apart. Found no issues, so I took the hotend apart. No issues there either. Then I realized that the problem was a thick blob on the filament, that would not fit through the bowden cable. Next time this happens, the filament will be the firsby lajos - Tantillus
Disabled the lcd and now the tantillus firmware compiles fine. I'll load it up tonight.by lajos - Tantillus
I have the SureStepr SD8825s, at 1.2A 1/16 step the 48mm nema17s are running very cool (the steppers are rated 1.68A). The extruder stepper is 92F, xy axis are 87F in 70F ambient. Haven't tried 1/32.by lajos - Tantillus
I was wondering about disabling PID as well. But then I printed some models both ways and with bang bang mode the start seam appears to be less visible, and the object smoother. Seems like it should be the other way around.by lajos - Tantillus
I don't have an lcd yet, so I'll try disabling it. By the way, the printer is great. You did an awesome job with the design!by lajos - Tantillus
I have sanguinololu 1.2+ selected (value 62). I will try a newer arduino sdk. But finally I'm getting some prints! I modified the gcode prefix to do z homing at 10,10, so now the blob gets cleaned off before the first layer starts. I also had some connection issues, maybe there's some issues with the FTDI driver on win8? Now I'm printing from win7. This is 30mm tall at 0.15 layer height (looksby lajos - Tantillus
I tried compiling the tantillus-marlin firmware from github again, still no go. I got a new arduino 0023 to make sure that wasn't the issue. Here's the errors I get: ultralcd:34: error: 'LCD_PINS_RS' was not declared in this scope ultralcd:34: error: 'LCD_PINS_ENABLE' was not declared in this scope ultralcd:34: error: 'LCD_PINS_D4' was not declared in this scope ultralcd:34: error: 'LCD_PINS_D5by lajos - Tantillus
Yes, I will try compiling with a different arduino sdk. I either have the wrong version, or it's some user error on my part.by lajos - Tantillus
I printed my tantillus parts on my cnc machine which unfortunatelly can't produce the nice sharp corners like tantillus because there is way too much mass moving around. So I had to do some xacto cleanup on the parts, and probably made them too loose. I glued the parts with the z carriage assembled and mounted to a board and made sure that everything was moving nice and smooth before the jb weldby lajos - Tantillus
Thanks so much for the pointers. I did see that your firmware keeps the fan on, now I just do that manually until I get everything sorted out. I started with your firmware, but I couldn't compile it. So I got the latest marlin from github and moved some of your changes over, however in the latest marlin they seem to have removed m109 so it didn't work with the kisslicer profiles. Then pronterfacby lajos - Tantillus
Attached is a picture to show what's happening. You can see that there's hardly any plastic for the skirt, and even the outline is missing on the first layer. Once the head refills, the rest of the print is perfect.by lajos - Tantillus
My z assembly was a bit loose, maybe because I had to clean out the holes where the z lift attaches to the arms, so I jb-welded the z arms and z lift together. Jb weld made it rock solid.by lajos - Tantillus
Nice print, I think I just saw that on thingiverse. Wondered what printer it came from...by lajos - Tantillus