Status Update I just completed printing a small test piece (oozebanetest). I printed it at the lowest temperature I've ever used as far as I can - 185C hot end 110C heated bed for first layer, and 180C hot end and 105C heated bed for the others. Funny thing is that, this is the best printing quality I got with this particular piece in terms of blob and ooze control (and I printed this same shaby Yamster - Reprappers
QuackingPlums, Just curious, what is the temperature setting that you have settled at and was able to print without jamming with? You are still using PLA, right? I have been having a very similar problem with you, and I'm still trying to figure out what the right temperature setting for me is... I am using (black) PLA also. Well, I actually just tried to switch to ABS after so much jamming,by Yamster - Mendel90
Well, I hear you well. Also, I wasn't brave enough to go ahead and overwrite the max temperature setting, so I haven't done anything stupid and burned up my J head or anything (at least not yet) I actually ordered another J head, with a smaller size nozzle. I could see another printer or at least another (second) extruder on my printer in my future, so I thought it would be a reasonable invesby Yamster - Reprappers
How do I delete a posting?by Yamster - Reprappers
I've been reading other people's postings about the temperature, and like many people say I don't think the temperature reading necessarily is the actual temperature of the inside of the hot end - where the filament is melted. Wissing apparently can have the PLA extruded at a low temperature like 165C, but with my printer at that temperature I cannot squeeze out any no matter how hard I try. Aby Yamster - Reprappers
I don't think my hot end is jammed. Well, at least not jammed completed. As I have said I've just switched from black PLA to white ABS, and the small amount of extrusion I can get with hand push is all white. I've cleaned up the hot end several time to make sure it's not jammed (I think I have become a semi-expert on hot end cleaning, thanks to the jamming issue I have had all week long ). Whby Yamster - Reprappers
I got a role of ABS filament today. After replacing the PLA filament with this ABS filament, I set the hot end temperature at 230C and fed the filament in a little bit. I saw some extrusion at the bottom of the hot end (my old PLA was blank and this ABS is white, so I could tell it was the ABS coming out the nozzle for sure), then thought I'm ready to print some simple test piece. After the hby Yamster - Reprappers
Man... I don't believe this. My extrude is jammed again!!! It was about 80-85% done printing the last part of the fan mount unit, and started pumping out no plastic! LOL I have attached a picture of this 85% finished part - just to share my frustration! Now I wonder... what should I do? I do have some fanning for the hot end body, until I can finish printing this fan mount kits, which I amby Yamster - Reprappers
Hello, I have two motors for Z axis on my printer (Prusa i3), and they are connected tot he same Pololu driver - basically the wires are Y split. These motors are identical. I'm just wondering, if one of them went bad for some reason and I had replace one of them, should I replace it with the same kind of motor? I know that will be ideal thing to do, but the motor may no longer be available,by Yamster - Reprappers
Thank you for the reply. So,from the controller (i.e. RAMPS) to the hardware (motors), it really is a series of individual instructions, chopped down to the lowest movement level, but since the CPU clock is so fast in reality it's just as good as all the motors are moving simultaneously, right? In other words, it's like case #5, which is actually what I have expected - there is no such thing asby Yamster - Reprappers
Maybe I can do some reading... but since I am lazy, let me just ask people here. LOL Let's say the extruder on my printer can move X or Y direction by 0.1 mm increment - not sure what the actual "step" is, but for the simplicity of this discussion... And, I want to draw a diagonal line, which is of length 14.14 mm - meaning the extruder will have to travel by 10 mm on each direction. What doesby Yamster - Reprappers
Ralf, Thank you for the picture! I tried your trick twcie. Each time I got something similar as what you showed in your picture. I attached a picture of one of them. It seems like I may have pulled it too hard that about 10mm from the bottom of the filament, there's a section which is a bit stretched out. I think I was pulling it so hard that I ended up stretching the filament, when it got sby Yamster - Reprappers
Well, this may be a dumb question, but I need to have the filament already in the hot end (molded and fit tight) when doing this, right? In other words, if I am trying to clean the hot end out but do not have a filament in there, I first need to heat up the hot end, insert the filament all the way in (until I see some extrusion, I would assume), let the hot end cool down completely, turn it up tby Yamster - Reprappers
Thanks for the tips. Really appreciate it. Yes, I guess I am learning it hard way that hot end fan with PLA is a must. Actually, I've been printing a lot of stuff with PLA without a fan past couple of weeks, so I actually have been quite lucky not to have this jamming issue until now. Or, come to think of it, I think I had to gradually increase the hot end temperature, so maybe the melted PLAby Yamster - Reprappers
How about poker chips? You can incorporate different calibration testing with various designs and you certainly can't have enough poker chips around. Well that's how it is with me anyway - they are like socks; they keep disappearing.by Yamster - Reprappers
Hello all, I wonder if I am having a jamming issue and need to take some corrective action accordingly (clean up the hot end). It'll he ironic if I do have a jamming issue b/c it happened while printing parts for hot end fan mount... My printer was running fine for the first two layers - I had to restart printing a couple of times before that after increasing the current flow to the extruder mby Yamster - Reprappers
This nylon trimmer we are talking about.... it's that thin plastic thingy which is used as a blade for the lawn trimmer, right?by Yamster - General Mendel Topics
Thanks for your reply. If I understood it correctly, it will be ideal to have both fans, one for the hot end and the other for the printed parts, right? I really liked it when I saw you saying "dramatically better" results. That's something I sure can use. Now I have two more questions: 1. How much of air flow would be ideal? Will there be something as "too much" air flow? Or, since the cby Yamster - Reprappers
I am considering installing a fan for the hot end. I looked at some fan mounts available in Thingiverse, and I am a bit confused. Some of them seem to be blowing air to the body of the hot end (not sure what it's called - but that black plastic thing in J hot end above the metal part at the bottom). Some other designs, however, seems to be blowing air on to the printed object... What is the hby Yamster - Reprappers
Oh, one more question... Just like the nozzle, there seem to be two different size commonly available for the filament; 3 mm and 1.75 mm. Does 1.75 mm filament work better with 0.3 mm nozzle, while 3 mm filament works well with 0.5 nozzle? Or, the filament size really has nothing to do with the nozzle size? Then why are there two different sizes, and what are the good and bad for these two fiby Yamster - Reprappers
Will it be easier to achieve lower layer height with smaller nozzle size, like 0.3 mm? I understand I would need a well tuned printer to work with smaller layer height and width no matter what nozzle size is, but I wonder smaller nozzle size is more optimal for smaller layer height therefore making the calibration a bit easier. Thank you!by Yamster - Reprappers
Hello, What would be the practical limitation of the extrusion height (layer height) and extrusion width for 0.5mm nozzle? Can I go as low as 0.1mm layer height with 0.5mm nozzle? Or, would that be too much of an effort, and I should just switch to 0.3mm nozzle?by Yamster - Reprappers
Hmm.. I am getting great info here - as always! I can't locate my multimeter, so until I can find it I will rely on the old method of turning-the-pot-a-little-bit-and-see-how-it-works method. :p But still, I would not have known how little of turning on the pots can make a big difference if I didn't read these replies... I guess adjusting the pots by 1/8 turn could actually be too much. So,by Yamster - Reprappers
Well, actually what I need is M3 x 50mm, not M3 x 40mm. Anyway, I found an online supplier which sells a pack of 10 M3 x 50mm for $5.09... and you were right, the charge on the cheapest shipping option was $2.66.. LOL I didn't even bother to find a cheaper deal and placed an order with them, since it will only be a matter of a buck or two, if I can find a better deal that is. Yvan Wrote: ---by Yamster - Reprappers
That's a very good point indeed. As a matter of fact, I've been tweaking the current setting of the Pololus during the calibration (sometimes I suspected the poor printing quality is due to lack of the current), and I've just re-adjusted the current setting again. After the last adjustment, Y and Z motors stay cool throughout printing, and X and Extruder motors get warm/hot after a while (stillby Yamster - Reprappers
Hmm.. I just re-checked the web site I got the diameter info, and now I wonder if I misunderstood the chart... Seems like the number followed by M simply is the diameter in mm? So, I guess I should've been looking for M3 screw, not M2 screw, right! Thank you Yvan for raising this question - I could've been in hunt for a wrong screw if it wasn't for you! Yamster Wrote: --------------------by Yamster - Reprappers
Yvan Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > Stupid question, but are you sure yours are really > 2 mm? > You mean the diameter of the screw? I have measured the diameter of this M2 screw and its diameter came out to be 0.115 inch. I checked the internet on the specification of M2 screw, and they are saying it's radius should be 0.058 inch (= 0.116 inby Yamster - Reprappers
Hello. Like the subject line says, where can I find M2 screws which are 50mm long? I've searched internet but the closest one I could find is 40mm long. I've picked up a couple of cheap cooling fans for my motors. They have 4 screw hole, one on each corner, and their locations happen to match perfectly to the screws on the back of the motor. This is great since the only other ways to mount/aby Yamster - Reprappers
NormandC Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hello Yamster, > > Why are you making 6 top and bottom solid layers? > That is way overkill, I believe the default is 3. Oh yes, it was a bit of overkill. LOL I was just experimenting with different configurations, and it seems like I took those comments from the g code files when I had 6 solid top layer setby Yamster - Reprappers
Hello, When a new layer is put on top of the lower layer, what makes it to stick? 1) Does the lower layer need to be still in melt state, or at least semi-melt (soft?) state? 2) Or, does it only need to be warm.. warm enough? 3) Or, it doesn't even matter that as long as the new layer is placed with a melted plastic, it will bond to the lower layer, like its own heat will melt the surface oby Yamster - Reprappers