Well, I found it. There _IS_ a limit, and a rule of sorts, about the relationship between the length of the rods and the radius of the end effector. I am not sure exactly what it is, but I know that my move to the FLSun end effector was the wrong move. I crafted my own end effector that puts the majority of the hot end above the plane of the rod connections. It keeps the same radius as the deby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quoteo_lampe The printed effectors are only as good as the printer which made it. There can be several issues with it. Rod-pairs not parallel: The distance between rods at the carrier must be the same as at the effector The effector triangle has to be equal length: The angle between rods axis' is 60° all around? Stiffness of the printed part, including the heatsink clamp. The effector is a commeby dlc60 - Reprappers
I designed what I call a micro Kossel delta. Initially I used a traditional "hanging" hot end whose distance from the nozzle to the arm attachment was about 20mm. It had a volume diameter of about 70mm and z height of about 45mm. It worked great right off the start. Almost no tuning or leveling needed, just some speed and temperature tuning. I wanted more z height so I put on a Flsun style end eby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quoteorbitalair Loosen the z thread blocks at the built plate frame. I'd bet you are getting plate wobble from there if they are rigidly attached. Let them float in the horizontal plane and lets see what it does. If I do that, then there is nothing keeping the whole thing running vertically. There are no guide rods on this design, only the screws. Can your idea work when there are only the tby dlc60 - Reprappers
QuoteDirty Steve Would not be from vibrating, the build plate can swell and contract from heating, causing your Z 0 to physically change while printing, causing upper layers to squash. This can happen with even a minor swing high and low around set temp. It was running bang-bang on the bed (Marlin default). I corrected that, but no change in the banding. thanks, DLCby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quoteo_lampe The grub screw of the filament drive gear might have come loose? That would cause uneven extrusion, which leads to the nozzle dragging through blobs. Your hole printer-mechanic accumulates the dragging force until the nozzle is free and the effector jumps forward. Good thought, I have seen that one before, and it was a puzzle. This time the slow-fast... movement is happening on theby dlc60 - Reprappers
I have a DIY "micro" kossel that has worked fine for many months. To get more Z height, I put a new end effector on it. Did all the usual tuning, Z height setting et. al. I replaced a simple "hang below" Kossel effector with an FLSun one that I fixed in place because I don't care for the "auto" cal thing it did. It's size and complexity were perfect for this application. My first few prints wby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quoteo_lampe I'd add the linear rails to the side where the top of the "T" shaped bed frame is. Then use the stepper as belt tensioner, too. The amount of belt-wrap around the driving pulley is quite small. Here's my version of 3 ballscrews/two linear rails/one stepper. But tensioning the belt requires to move the whole alu-bar. I am looking at this possibility. It shouldn't be impossible, juby dlc60 - Reprappers
QuoteDirty Steve If not Z-wobble, this can also be caused by the bed flexing while trying to hold temp. This thing has a 1/4" solid piece of T6 aluminum. While it isn't perfectly flat (I use a glass plate on top of it), I kind of doubt that it vibrates from heating. I have much thinner aluminum plates on other printers that don't. And, I don't use "bang bang" heating either. It is quite slowby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quoteo_lampe How about the connecting pulleys? Do they wobble? They look printed, maybe they fit too loose on the ballscrew shaft? Adding some linear guides would require a lot of changes around the ballscrews too. They should be only single side supported and the ball nut should be "floating" in X&Y direction. But that's gonna be difficult with the Z-stepper at the top end. Bearings, pulleysby dlc60 - Reprappers
Thanks all, interesting observations, which I did not understand at first. I built this beast last year from parts a friend had cached, but realized that he would never actually build the printer, so he gave them to me. The only plans I had were a step-file from the creator of the printer. He did his design about five years ago when 3D printers were starting to become the "thing". The design wby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quotedc42 Is the pitch of the banding constant, and if so does it match the pitch of the ballscrews? Or does the pitch increase at the top where the model gets narrower? It seems very regular, whether narrow or wide. It is kind of difficult to tell, but "eye balling" it, the banding seems pretty close to the ball screw pitch. DLCby dlc60 - Reprappers
Sounds like an SF movie title? Anyway, I have a scratch built, large platform "Cartesian" printer that creates horizontal "banding". It gets a little worse as part height rises. I have attached a photo of a hollow "Spannerhands" rocket that really shows this up well. I have changed acceleration, jerk, etc. to no avail. The attached photo is done "vase mode" in Simplify3D, which will have noby dlc60 - Reprappers
This is what I did. I got the new IDE, fixed the fpos problem and all went just fine. Folger Tech is still using the ancient source as well. DLCby dlc60 - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I too think that these are a brilliant cheapo intro kit! CURA makes them act a bit funky until you get used to it. I usually use Simplify3D for my slicing/printing. When building, there is no substitute for careful execution of the steps and looking up the bits that don't make sense. My description of the 3-point hack that I did is in the first post of this thread. Look for the trigger wordsby dlc60 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteobewan In the slicers end code you could put a G1 move to the rear left of the bed G1 X0 Y200 or G91 ;relative mode G1 Z5 ;raise Z above print G90 ;absolute mode G1 X0 Y200 ;move extruder to rear left This sounded like a good idea, so I implemented it. Yup. It does just what I want it to do - Get the print head out of the path and present the print to me "front and center". I am greenby dlc60 - Prusa i3 and variants
One of the updates I plan on with my kit is pretty simple. Some people have had the hot bed connector fry after use. The connector is capable of handling the current, but the stiff wires used can, with use, compromise the integrity of that connector. I will not have that problem because I secured the cable to my Y carriage so that wire movement won't strain the connector to the board. I planby dlc60 - Prusa i3 and variants
Makes it look like a old-style Mendel... This looks like the ultimate fix for perceived wobble. So, what's your point? It looks like a pretty cheap fix for any Prusa that isn't built on an extruded aluminum frame. It sounds like you and others have had a bad run-in with this kit. I didn't. If all that is reported are the bad experiences this place will look like "Yelp", where people bitch, anby dlc60 - Prusa i3 and variants
Wow, that's bitter. I call it as I see it. I got the kit as a gift and built it carefully. It worked brilliantly, but had a couple of flaws. It IS a cheap kit. Why on Earth would you expect high quality components in a cheap kit? If the family could have afforded a $600 kit, that would have been awesome and would have deserved vitriol. This kit is hardly a crime. DLCby dlc60 - Prusa i3 and variants
I would bet that while you were replacing bearings and rods and beds and stuff that you just torqued the whole frame a little and it has a twist. The reason that you can't see it is that the gantry and/or bed have to be in certain places to put the strain on the bed that twists it. Find a flat surface, really flat, and loosen all the screws holding the frame together. Get it all to sit flat andby dlc60 - Prusa i3 and variants
I recently built an Anet A8 Prusa i3 kit, and it prints brilliantly, but I have a question. I am used to delta printers where at the end of the print I simply "home the head and all is fine. Or open frame Cartesian ones I drop the bed to Z max to get easy access to the print. On these Prusa printers that may not be the best thing to do since homing the head (G28) may cause the horizontal rods onby dlc60 - Prusa i3 and variants
I got an Anet A8 for Christmas and have been building it, an hour or two at a time over the last couple of weeks. This is my experience and my impressions. The box is impressively packed and sorted. The best that I have seen in a 3D printer kit (This is my fourth). What is very weird to me was that the metric screws were almost all "Phillips" and not hex. No problem, just kind of odd to me. Tby dlc60 - Prusa i3 and variants
Look here: I bought a couple of 1/4" thick, 5" diameter aluminum disks for a _Micro_ Kossel design of mine. You will need to do some edge finishing, but they are clean and look flat. Price == cheap. THEN I got a Mr. Coffee mug warmer. I measured this little guy to get over 95C in a couple of minutes. I am going to use some 3M high-temperature spray adhesive to stick the mains-connected heatby dlc60 - Reprappers
QuoteFalcondestroyer123 Hey guys im planning to build a printer with the arduino 2560 mega and ramps 1.4 board and using a mk2b 300x300mm heat bed and with a lcd what wattage of a power supply do i need. Thanks If you are starting from scratch, don't bother with the MEGA/RAMPS 1.4 combo. Use an MKS or Rambo board. Both of these support 24V so you can keep your current down on the heaters. Beby dlc60 - Reprappers
QuoteSupraGuy I've always just used good old dihydrogen monoxide. I take the glass to the sink and run it under the hot tap. Hairspray dissolves easily enough, so unless there's ABS residue stuck to the glass, that's always been enough to get the job done. The trickiest part is getting it dry afterwards, but a paper towel or two usually does a perfectly adequate job. Maybe once in a while a dropby dlc60 - Reprappers
QuoteTrakyan The prusa is a derivative of the mendel, the first iteration was even called the prusa mendel. To me 'Cartesian' just means the gantry or bed moves in plain X, Y and Z. Whether that's a mendel or replicator gantry or whatever. CoreXY is a cartesian printer to me, it typically uses an H type gantry where the gantry moves in X and Y. The difference here is that the X and Y axis are coby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quotestahlsau I've made good experience with the geeetech i3 alu - it's a rigid frame and they improve the design of the parts ncluded all the time. Former versions had issues with the extruder, for example, but they listened to the people and changed the design accordingly. Prints very nice (I'd say), cost me about 230€ by ebay for the complete kit, and packed in a ikea-Lack-enclosure it is bareby dlc60 - Reprappers
I had a similar issue happen to me once. It turned out that one of my belts had come loose. I use primarily delta printers, which I have found can mean that "most" of the print works, but has an issue in one direction, the one with the loose belt as the primary mover... DLCby dlc60 - Printing
Final report on this project. I think that I mixed in some other "no name" stepper motors in my parts box and the FLSun ones are fine. My bad. NEMA stepper motors measuring 24 ohms do not work at 12V, NEMA 17 steppers measuring 2 ohm, work fine. My E3Dv6 3mm Bowden setup is using an "Itty Bitty Belted" extruder that I got on Thingiverse. I am using the FLSun linear rails and heated bed. I run Mby dlc60 - Reprappers
I have found an interesting very small bed heater, one that is about 10cm in diameter. It is AC powered and can hit nearly 100 C. Got your attention? It is a desk-top coffee cup warmer. I was looking for something to heat my micro-Kossel bed while also looking for a 15cm metal disk to use for a bed. I currently use a 5" (13cm) acrylic 1/4" thick disk for a bed. I found a mug heater in my deskby dlc60 - Reprappers