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No worries, ill whip up a geared drive version tonight - thanks.
by
ashhhhh
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Reprappers
Thanks.
It seems a debatable topic though because there are a ton of people who say that 3mm direct drive is fine, and obviously 3mm drive gears are produced and sold.
I also argue that the motor has more than adequate torque, the drive gear slips and eats the filament before the motor stalls, which may simply mean this extruder design is not up to the task of 3mm.
I only posted in here because
by
ashhhhh
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Reprappers
Do I ask really stupid questions continually or what?
50 views, not a single thought or comment.
Surely one of you 50 run a Bowden and know what speed it can push..
by
ashhhhh
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Reprappers
Hey all,
Can anyone suggest what a decent mm/min speed would be for a direct drive extruder with 3mm filament and a 0.5mm J-Head hot-end?
Mine wont go above about 75mm/min, is this sufficient to run decent print speeds on a delta? (Cerberus)
Cheers
Ash
by
ashhhhh
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Reprappers
My own config files, I have around 40 now, for a variety of models.
by
ashhhhh
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Slic3r
Quoteuserzero
QuotejustcuriousUpload your stl and exported config file at least for anyone to look into
You're right. I'm sorry!
Last night I tried to slice a sample object with and without support and/or skirt in order to upload the required files. As I tried to replicate the problem Slic3r behaved rather erratically, I tried changing the parameters in the configure window and it wouldn't sav
by
ashhhhh
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Slic3r
Quotetmorris9
Quoteashhhhh
Phew! Glad im not going crazy.
See the attached files.
Thanks.
That attached .ini is not the same as shown in your partial gcode list above it.
Here is the top of the gcode produced by your uploaded .ini file that shows settings
; layer_height = 0.2
; perimeters = 2
; top_solid_layers = 1
; bottom_solid_layers = 1
; fill_density = .2
; perimeter_speed = 20
; infill_
by
ashhhhh
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Slic3r
Quotejustcurious
you may check this one:
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?263,286172
Thanks but I read that thread, it doesnt fit my situation.
by
ashhhhh
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Slic3r
Yeah I am finding a similar thing, its extremely annoying and a new problem.
Are the Slic3r devs on this forum??
by
ashhhhh
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Slic3r
Sorry, regarding the G-Code I posted.
No I just copied the first sections from the editor, as only the first few layers are affected.
I can post the full code if required.
by
ashhhhh
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Slic3r
Very, very odd. Thank you for testing BTW.
I may try a complete reinstall of Reptier/Slic3r. I have been using it for a long time and have upgraded several times.
I also manually copied the new version of Slic3r into the Repetier folder. (not that it should cause a problem)
I will let you know how it goes.
UserZero, could you upload as suggested?
It would be great to have another example of th
by
ashhhhh
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Slic3r
Phew! Glad im not going crazy.
See the attached files.
Thanks.
by
ashhhhh
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Slic3r
Thanks.
This turned out to be one of these annoying problems which vanished.
Today I did exactly as yesterday, now it works..... NFI
by
ashhhhh
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Repetier
Hey all,
I have another issue with 1.0RC2.
Change made to existing presets do not save, when saved.
I have to edit the actual ini file for changes to take effect, which is obviously annoying.
This mainly seems to affect the "Raft layers"
It can be saves as anything except 0, unless you put "0" in the ini field.
Anyone else seeing this?
Ash
by
ashhhhh
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Slic3r
So I have confirmed that "Z Lift" is off. (I never use it)
I have also confirmed that skirt is layer 1, and the first print layer is 2...
Here is the first few layers of a 20mm test cube.
-------------------------
; generated by Slic3r 1.0.0RC2 on 2014-01-15 at 20:45:18
; layer_height = 0.2
; perimeters = 2
; top_solid_layers = 1
; bottom_solid_layers = 1
; fill_density = .1
; perimeter_speed =
by
ashhhhh
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Slic3r
Just to confirm, I think I am confused on a few fronts.
With Repetier Host and manual movement, should moving in the "+" direction bring the bed to the front of the printer, or the rear?
(by forward I guess I mean the extruder ends up at the rear of the bed)
I think I have the axis direction, home position or end stop inversion screwed up....or all of them! ;p
by
ashhhhh
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Repetier
Hi all,
I was hoping someone could save me from insanity!
I have a Mendel style machine (Air2) which runs Gen6 electronics and opto stops.
The y end stop is at the rear of the printer.
I have been running Repetier FW for several versions and it has been great, so I thought I would upgrade to 0.91.
Now the Y carriage will not stop at the endstop.
M119 indicates that all stops are "L" when inac
by
ashhhhh
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Repetier
Yeah I think you are right.
I have my y stop at the rear of the printer, should this be min or max?
Gen6 does not actually have max connectors that I know of and it trigger properly as a "MIN stop"
When I manually move the bed in the minus direction it comes forward, is this correct?
So confusing...
by
ashhhhh
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General Mendel Topics
Hey all,
I have just upgraded firmware on my Air2 which runs Gen6 electronics and Repetier firmware/host.
M119 shows all stops as "L" when unused, and Y trigger to "H" when it should.
When homing or during manual moves however the printer continues driving past the stop...
Thoughts?
Thanks
Ash
by
ashhhhh
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General Mendel Topics
Ill check that, but have been using Slic3r for a long time now and never encountered the problem until now.
I have spoken to another user who has observed that the skirt is noted to be "layer 1" and then the first part of the job "layer 2" - this appears to explain what I am seeing, but still no idea why..
by
ashhhhh
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Slic3r
Hey all,
I have the 1.0RC2 version installed and noticed that Z seems to lift after the skirt prints.
This means the first layer sucks..
Thoughts?
Thanks,
Ash
by
ashhhhh
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Slic3r
PVA does not stick well to glass in my experience, I'm not surprised it rips up.
This glue stick CANNOT be peeled off, it requires water and razor to remove from the glass.
by
ashhhhh
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Printing
This glue isn't PVA guys, is completely different.
I've printed tall thin objects and also large flat objects, no issues so far.
by
ashhhhh
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Printing
Does that motor meet the torque requirements?
by
ashhhhh
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Printing
It shouldn't affect it much, but yes - repeat when your hot end is fitted.
by
ashhhhh
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Printing
Make sure steps/mm is correct.
The way I do it is take hot end off, tell it to feed 20mm.
Measure what was actually fed carefully. (I put a mark on filament and measure with calipers)
Multiple your current (set in firmware) steps/mm X 20mm (feed instruction) and divide the result by the length of filament actually fed.
That number is your new steps/mm figure.
Repeat and adjust as required.
by
ashhhhh
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Printing
As far as I know this hasn't been done before, so it was all an experiment for me.
I worked through the different, common bed materials for the sake of demonstrating for people that it does work but also what the pros/cons are with each material.
I have posted videos of Painters tape,Kapton and glass - because that was my order of testing.
Each video shows that it works, but also the downsides wi
by
ashhhhh
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Printing
There is now a page -
I've never done one before so im sure there is massive room for further detail and better editing!
by
ashhhhh
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Printing
Just paste the glue on as though you were using it on paper, you just need a coating - not a thick layer.
I apply it to the bed when warm, only 40 degrees or so.
Be careful when removing the print, it will tear the Kapton up.
I use water to dissolve the glue bond, the print lifts pretty easily then.
No wiki yet (I have only been testing this for 2 days) and I don't have a blog. ;p
by
ashhhhh
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Printing
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