have you noticed these on thingiverse? Ormerod 2 Z-lower mount Z axis smoth rod and motor mount ormerod Ormerod 1 lower-mount Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotedmould Quoteormerod168 My first try in OpenScad, seems to work, amazing.... Erik That's done it! You won't want to design with anything other than OpenScad now! Dave That's an easy choice, I have no knowledge of 3D modeling programs whatsoever! ...but I like this - I like this a lot! Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quoteepninety I don't have the original design files anymore, but this is a trivial change to make directly in the stl file. e.g. in OpenSCAD... - import the .stl file. - move the part around until the hole in centred on one axis. - draw a 10mm diameter cylinder at the origin. - rotate the cylinder until it's in the same plane - subtract one from the other. - render the resulting object - exporby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteSardi I have the ol` classic cardboard insulator under the heatbed. This is the material I use Sealed around the edges with kapton tape OK up to 125C, 150C not so much.. Cork and a reflective layer of alu foil would be a better choice for higher temperatures Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteSardi ..Could loose connections also be at fault?... Yes but not on a longer timeline, it would burn out and you would smell it Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
The original ATX is just fine, I run my two ormerod1 with those Measure the voltage on the heatbed - where the cables is attached - 10.9V is sufficient to heat the bed to 125C in 10 to 12 minutes - if you have proper isolation under the bed that is - I use radiator foil with the aluminium side against the heatbed, it's OK to 125C degrees but not higher BTW, its much better to keep the coolingby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotelasse Burt still the printer has problems whith the homing and the prints starts at the same weird position as before. Maybe the problem is my M208 command I see that you have no y value in the S1 row. You could try and exchange some of the lines from my config, if you turn down the motor currents a bit nothing bad will happen How low you can go depends on your system but I think 500mA shby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Hello Lasse, here's my homeall.g, I have dc42's IR sensor installed and do my homing at the middle of the bed and make fine adjustment (if needed) by turning the threaded rod Then before starting a print I run a home macro: G1 X-10 Y50 Z0 F2000, this will (on my system) set the nozzle just outside the edge of the glass and cut and leave the ooze from the nozzle outside the bed ; Ormerod 1 homby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotelasse Yes the X and Y axes moves in the right direction. When I upgraded the firmware more than a month ago I only found firmware 1.17 and 1.17a on github. And now when i follow the link to Github I am redirected to some strange site called "404". So where can I get firmware 1.17e? I read somewhere that it was possible to update the firmware through the webinterface 1.14.How do I do that?by ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotespinorkit To fix this I bolted a 16x16mm aluminium channel extrusion diagonally under my heated bed and I use lots of medium size bulldog clips to hold the corners of the glass down. This gives me one warp-free diagonal. The extrusion means I can't get swiss clips anywhere near the corners. Thanks again, Kit I modified the bulldog clips, cut one side, rounded the edges so not to damage thby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotedmould Yes, the Z upper mount, published in the official RepRap "Ormerod-master/stl/individual parts" directory of the online repository that I picked up ages ago when I first got my Ormerod. I've attached it here. S3D places about 3 solid membranes at various heights inside the rectangular hollow box section (which it does not show on its 3D view, they appear after slicing). Dave Very sby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotedmould ..The published STL for the Ormerod Z end cap.. Dave Do you mean z-upper-mount - and published where? Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteSardi Let me pick your brain a bit more than, is S3D worth it? For me it was then, time was more important to me than money - dunno about now, Slic3r has grown faster, more stable and very important for me, got a very nice preview of the print I still have Slic3r installed and use that for cutting models, something S3D cannot do You can run multiple processes in in S3D, besides that I donby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteSardi The print came out perfectly. Ptfe tube went in 40mm as it should, bearings fit nicely... I am a happy guy now.. ..as Mr.Burns would say ...Excellent! QuoteSardi So as long as you are here, let me ask you just this, is this a good slic3r and cura start gcode? I have nothing in my start gcode, but then I use Simplify3D only, and things like wait for temp. is preset inside the programby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteSardi extrusion multiplier to 0.97, and... My ditto setting is 0.90 and spot on for both printers Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteSardi - Screw holes are for a 2mm screw instead of a 3mm. QuoteSardi EDIT: the 9mm bearing cant fit, all the holes are simply too narrow The model looks perfect to me, must be your printer or slicer setting...btw, printing outer perimeters first could help Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
..or Mr.Burns version from many moons ago Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Have you tried RepRapLtd? Even if they can't supply the PTFE tube they should at least be able to tell you the correct dimensions. the measurement are in the pdf folder of the Ormerod 1 (383 and 384).zip to totally clean nozzle use a 0.5 - 2 and 3mm hand held drill bit (for the 3mm, a flat nosed end mill cutter would be perfect) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotelasse ...So my next step is to correct the rods, and in a sort of way make the constroction more reliable and robust maybe making a "house" for the whole ormerod... Some ideas for you Aluminum endplates, y-axis Rebuild of Blitza's Ormerod1 Ormerod Bigfoot mod! Erik (user of Swedish snus :-))by ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteSardiZ rod - I have that long brass nut on the z rod, but I must say it does look much more sturdy to have one, in diameter bigger rod there. Also wouldnt hurt to have a direct transmision, instead of a double gear drive like it is now. Direct drive with the stepper in the original position will not make it possible to mount a bigger diameter rod, it will not clear the smooth rod, so you wiby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteSardi Stepper motors - whats their life expectancy? Do I go and get myself a set of spare ones about now? Will last forever, OK, the bearings could wear out after 20.000 working hours or so..:-) QuoteBearings - Are the due for a change? Three years of work must have worn them out somewhat. The printer does sound a bit "metalish" when the hot head is moving about. Linear bearing will alsoby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quote0x0000 How large is the hole? Is it threaded or just drilled straight through? ..and notice Joar107's direct drive mod was with the original 5mm threaded rod that clears the x-axis smooth rod by a hair, so if you plan to use a bigger diameter ball screw you will have to move the stepper a bit or use gears Here's another take, Melmie's mod: ..and epninety: ..and zeb00: Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quote0x0000..How large is the hole? Is it threaded or just drilled straight through? 6,50mm, straight through - finally found the post with the files Joar107 shared: Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quote0x0000 ..For example, if I left a patch of metal at the end of the x-rib, I could also cut holes for the lead screw and any mounts for the bearing....... The first version of Dave's alu - x-arm was prepared for such a lead screw, see 2. picture from his web site (my ormerod1 as it looked some time ago), the hole is positioned directly over and in-line with the stepper axle ...and IFAIRby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quote0x0000 Ha, that makes total sense! It will solve a lot of my cable management problems Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotebitfield ...Since I have Ormerod 1 I can't go with fotomas' solution out-of-the-box. Mirror the model in Slic3r? Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotelasse...Do I have to get Bossac.exe from an earlier version of Arudino and place it on this location manually? I have not found a separate file called Bossac exe on the net. Lars Copying Bossac.exe to the same directory (any directory) as the firmware and running Bossac.exe from a command prompt works for me (attached the Win version I use) My latest firmware flash, string used: bossac --by ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotekpapr1Do you think the carbon filter will block all the PLA micro-particles? No the carbon filter will block the fumes only - but if you worry about micro-particles (I don't) you could ad Hepa filter inline and before the carbon filter Whatever your choice will be, re-cycling the air or not, I would definitely choose an extractor vent with temperature control (like the one I linked to), sby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotekpapr1...I must also let you know that I now print outside (into a small storage room at the back of the house). I had problems with sore throat and itchy eyes when printing inside the house, so I stopped. The storage room has no heating and currently temp is fairly low (around 10 degrees), but I remember last year same period I used a portable heating element, but same results... .... Anyby ormerod168 - Ormerod
See how silly this politically correct software platform is - even a native Danish person like Me with 3 years of English education can run rings around this silly software - I could taunt you all day talking jive (if I so chose) - an example from the movie "Johnny Dangerously": Roman Moroni: I would like to direct this to the distinguished members of the panel: You lousy cork-soakers. You haveby ormerod168 - Ormerod