QuoteDarathy Is that yours? xD No - This is my Arboga. There are many like it, but this one is mine :-) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
"wink wink nudge nudge" ;-) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotetstone ..Basically i just used misprinted parts for cleaning the little cooled down nozzle. The plastic melts a little and then pulls everything on the nozzle away. This works best if you hit the right temperature point while the nozzle cools off. I wipe the nozzle with a strip of leather until temp. drop to 150 but will try your idea, got lots of failed prints :-) QuoteAlso i noticed thby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteSardi Hi Erik, these look good, but dont they remind a lot of the original ones that came with the printer in green color? Yes but there's a big difference, Sot's mod makes for a much stronger bind between the threaded rod and the gear wheel Quotemyself If you chose to use this mod I would recommend you drill out the upper nut to 5mm, this way you will be able to tighten the extra upperby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteTreito Slic3r provides an option exactly for this, but you will need at least version 1.2.9 Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
I use Sot's (thank you!) taller mod of the original, not perfect but better than the original IMHO There's an extra lower nut for support of the threaded rod, both nuts is in-bedded in the gear so cannot be tightened against the gear, also had to slim down the lower nut or it would drag against the screw holding the supporting bearing, but it works well and runs straight If you chose to use tby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Also check that sensor still sits square to the surface, could be out of wack, hit by curl-ups Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteVertikar Someone had actually created a part to print to press the buttons without opening the case which I've used sucessfully, but I can't find who did it right now. David aka dc42 did: Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Have you done any change that could effect the flow though the bowden tube? - e.g. tightened the brass end part against the tube? Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotetstone..The new dual nozzles seem to be much sharper and they just cut through the kapton tape with ease not much sharper, the flat part of the nozzle is the same, the tip of quickset nozzle is angled a bit sharper, 118 vs the 138 degrees of the one piece nozzle could be that you (like me) have used a needle file to clean the old style nozzle? - here's a picture of the wear from the neeby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quoteunstable...I'll try blocking the cooling ducts tomorrow and see what happens. Compared to the original that duct do let more air though but I do not remember having problems with the first layers ..but do not just block the cooling duct, the hotend will overheat, better drill a bypass at the top and block that with a slice of tape after the first few layers Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quote0x0000 I love this! I've had my eye on it for a while. Since nobody has asked yet - what is the thing that you're using as a base?.. Thank you for your kind words! - the base is from an electric saw I found at the scrap yard, made of cast aluminium, top is milled so perfectly flat and very very stable - perfect for the job Not exactly this one but something like it: ..will answer theby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quoteorictosh...Believe this is the right link, mentions 384 and the commit message final update before Ormerod 2 release It has the printed duet enclosure, which the newer kits didn't use as it became a metal box. Yes that's it thank you! - I usually know my way around filesystems but find github confusing - this time I made sure to save the link together with the zip :-) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuotePeterSimpson..The parts I am looking for are the 'z-bearing-clamp' (2 off). These clamp the x-axis to the linear bearings on the Z axis. I think I can see one at the extreme bottom right of Ormerod168's picture Found 3 sets in PLA and one in ABS (dark green, right) Quote I obviously tightened the screws too tight and they have pulled through the holes, splitting the block! The desigby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuotePeterSimpson..In the process of trying to get it working I have broken one or two of the plasic parts and would like to print some replacements.(or to be more precice find someone to print them for me) I got a lot of spares with the used ormerod1 I bought from Mario, would be happy to see those parts put to good use, postage will be very low (<100gram = letter postage) QuoteI am confby ormerod168 - Ormerod
With a handheld 2mm drill, clean out filament from the 2mm chamber Hold nozzle in wise, use a gas torch or heat gun to heat up nozzle until filament is liquid, then use air hose to blow out grit Expanding a 0,3mm nozzle to 0,5mm: Drill press, wise, high quality print drill bits, drilling paste....and lots of fingerspitzgefühl! Run the drill very slow, 100-150rpm Ta-daaa.. This is hby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteFpex..Any idea how to get cura producing correct code ? Frank's Cura plugin: Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteFpex..S3D I have it .... but I have not profiles for the ormerod and never tried to print with it.. This worked for me (AFAIR, using PanelDue now) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteTreito..Why is a brushed surface easier to repair? Its a lot faster to apply and repair (brush or sand) a rougher surface than a mirror finish, I use P400 wet and dry sandpaper and sand along the x-arm (not in circles) Quote Thanks Dave for the shim. It's okay for a new part, but for repairing my other one it would have been too thin Still got the 12.7 steel strap, my offer still standsby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteTreito Does anyone have a picture showing the polished version? polishing a spot on a spare x-arm as an example is easy, to make it show on a picture is the hard part - personally I prefer a brushed finish, much easier to repair Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteDavek0974 Looking at it that way, all the holes could be replaced with slots - no threads to tap at all then. I am open minded as to what is best here, whats the general consensus - leave as-is, replace with threaded hole, replace all threads with slots? the function of the x-rib is to make/keep the x-axis-plate straight (wider is better) - or to put it another way, the x-axis plate shouldby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteDavek0974 ..What does everyone else here feel - is there any drawback to swapping the nut cutout for a tapped hole??? Dave Your first edition (for ormerod1) was made that way, no problems with those Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 I think it's safe to manage without the heat spreader up to 65C or so for printing PLA, but wise to keep it if you want to go up to 100C for printing ABS and not using borosilicate glass. Me think you guys worry too much - I always print ABS on ordinary 4mm glass with kapton or buildtak at bed temp. 110C and no heat spreader Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteDavid JI've used several sheets of ordinary 3mm float glass for the last year - not had one break (yet!). I do take care to ensure that the glass is heated evenly (it sits on an aluminium heatbed).... I use 4mm float glass (windows glass) on the heatbed directly without any problems, the aluminium heat spreader is not needed IMHO Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
and mine ..."on the first day of Christmas my Big bro printed me (in red), one y-idler-bracket, two pair of shoes etc..." Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteTreitoBTW Printing directly on glass can work but it don't have to. I always got better sticking with Kapton tape. And I only found very less filaments which allowed to direct print on glass. Mostly failed. The best surface option is either PrintBite or BuildTak. Have tried printing on glass but got too many failed prints so had to give it up Yes Kapton tape works great with PLA, ABS alsoby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteTreito Why you didn't wrote glass without Kapton tape? Our teacher said if you don't know a word just describe what you want to say. ..sorry, I do not understand German so did not get that, but no problem, the word is now googleized :-) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotekpapr1 So if I move the z-axis say 0.1mm or 0.2mm away from the glass but at the side of it and then move the head towards the middle of the glass, you say that at some point the nozzle will touch the glass? I will try this now. Yes it most likely will, at least in the x direction because of the force from the bowden cable, but it could happen that your x-arm has a slight bend in the opposby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotetblitzy The top/bottom layers seem to have some gaps between filament prints If your config. of extruder steps per mm and extrusion width is correct and the pictures seems to show that - then those gaps is caused by missing support from underneath (the layer width is reached by squeezing out the filament against the former layer) or too few layer to repair that Ad more top layers and/or aby ormerod168 - Fisher
Quotekpapr1.. Also there's no bump on the glass maybe a small gap from the kapton tape but no overlap.. Lets call it a virtual "bump" seen from the nozzle's point of view then - and there usually is one at the middle of the glass, either the glass is bulging a bit because of the heat or the nozzle bending down a bit because of the force from the bowden cable (the force down of the nozzle is greby ormerod168 - Ormerod