Quotedougal1957 QuoteVortyZA Is there a link somewhere to the zombiepantslol Web interface 1.03? I did a bit of looking, but just found links to his firmware fork. Try GitHub Thanks - I suppose I was a little silly to not find it quickerby VortyZA - Ormerod
Is there a link somewhere to the zombiepantslol Web interface 1.03? I did a bit of looking, but just found links to his firmware fork. Found it:by VortyZA - Ormerod
Quotedc42 QuoteVortyZA Well who would like to guinea pig this version of the spring-loaded extruder? I don't want to post it on Thingiverse as yet, but it includes the following changes: 1) a larger radius (35mm) for dc42's sake to see if it's the tight radius that causes the filament to break overnight. 2) It has the PTFE tube going all the way through the part to just before the hobbed nut (slby VortyZA - Ormerod
Quotedougal1957 QuoteVortyZA Quotedougal1957 Quotedc42 I'm hoping that masonstonehenge will do a variant of his spring-loaded extruder design to use a pneumatic connector. My Mini Kossel uses these and I have found them to be totally reliable - although I have read that there are different sorts and some grip the tube much better than others. Dave You wouldn't happen to have the STL file for tby VortyZA - Ormerod
Quotedougal1957 Quotedc42 I'm hoping that masonstonehenge will do a variant of his spring-loaded extruder design to use a pneumatic connector. My Mini Kossel uses these and I have found them to be totally reliable - although I have read that there are different sorts and some grip the tube much better than others. Dave You wouldn't happen to have the STL file for that extruder would you? Oneby VortyZA - Ormerod
Quotedc42 For a long time I've had a problem that if I leave filament in the extruder overnight, when I try to print the next day the print fails, because the filament breaks in the extruder (or has already broken). My Mini Kossel does not suffer from this problem. At first I thought that the filament was weakened by being pinched between the hobbed insert and the bearing for too long. I am usinby VortyZA - Ormerod
Well who would like to guinea pig this version of the spring-loaded extruder? I don't want to post it on Thingiverse as yet, but it includes the following changes: 1) a larger radius (35mm) for dc42's sake to see if it's the tight radius that causes the filament to break overnight. 2) It has the PTFE tube going all the way through the part to just before the hobbed nut (slightly wider for thoseby VortyZA - Ormerod
I was going to suggest that. If the speed of the extruder is set too slow you could have that effect.by VortyZA - Ormerod
I had this problem with some aftermarket filaments where the diameter wasn't very consistent. The filament would work fine until it got to a slightly thinner section, then the hobbed insert would start slipping. Once it slipped the hobbed insert would be all clogged up and would no longer extrude correctly - even with the right filament - You'd have to take the whole extruder apart to clean the hby VortyZA - Ormerod
QuoteJon Steward When printing with ABS (I've just started) I notice a 'pop' every once in a while from the nozzle as the filament gets extruded. Doesn't seem to effect the print. I assume I have the nozzle temp to high (240) ABS is rather hygroscopic - absorbs moisture from the air. This ends up inside the filament and when the moisture hits the hotend it turns to steam fairly quickly - this caby VortyZA - Ormerod
I believe that you should try one thing at a time and while the belt tension etc. is very important, you could be having problems because the adhesion to the bed isn't right, so the hot-end could be jamming and missing steps because the plastic is lifting and catching on the air ducts or the sensor. There are FAQs on the RepRapPro website, but a short suggestion is use a clean bed covered with aby VortyZA - Ormerod
PLA? Try some super hold hairspray..by VortyZA - Ormerod
I'd actually say that the extrusion multiplier is slightly high. This would cause all sorts of issues like uneven outside walls especially if your printer does the outside perimeters from inside to out - excess filament then is pushed outwards. You're definitely on the right track - looking good!by VortyZA - Ormerod
Is there a FAQ section? This is a definite candidate for it. My suggestions: PLA - Use a very clean bed, coat it with super hold hairspray. ABS - Use a very clean bed, coat it with a thin layer of ABS slurry (ABS dissolved in Acetone) and let it air dry. When you've finished printing it should pull away almost like thin cellophane. I haven't used Kapton tape in months. The other important facby VortyZA - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts I can't see the video! I just get a "This video has been removed by the user." I think the others have provided lots of information regarding troubleshooting, along with the troubleshooting guide here: Ian RepRapPro tech support Also couldn't see the video.. strangeby VortyZA - Ormerod
There are several reasons that could occur.. Off the top of my head: The temperature sensor isn't reading the temperature and therefore will stop 'cold extrusion' (I believe that the Ormerod firmware does this?) The incorrect tool is selected for the extruder in the config or print g-code (T0 command instead of T1) or whatever. The hot end isn't heating enough or at all to melt the filamentby VortyZA - Ormerod
That looks like the bowden tube wasn't fully engaged in the brass while the hot end was extruding - been there seen that.by VortyZA - Ormerod
Do you have the most up-to-date Pronterface? As I said before, I had a similar problem when printing directly over USB using Pronterface. I never use the USB anymore - uploading the g-code and printing from the printer is MUCH better. There was always the possibility of my laptop shutting down or installing updates or doing something stupid in the middle of the print and also the USB interface wby VortyZA - Ormerod
I ran into that with overhangs or when printing basic support - the plastic would cool and contract, curling upwards which would then allow it to catch on the IR board or the ducts. I lowered the nozzle by a few mm and that solved most of those sorts of issues.by VortyZA - Ormerod
I tried to make a copy of what you posted, kind of tracing the .stl to make a solid design. The zip file here has a .stl file and also .stp files so that you can edit it if necessary. Circular design My gut feel is the program that exported the file didn't do a great job - possibly because you set the level of detail up so high? This is the attached file shown in the same program: Try to priby VortyZA - Ormerod
What used to happen is it would upload part of the file, then when the upload failed and you re-uploaded the file it would append to the existing file rather than replace. Therefore halfway through the print it would be told to go back to the starting point (which is now buried under plastic! ) As dc42 said, later releases of the firmware fixed that.by VortyZA - Ormerod
Are you printing from the SD or through the USB? In the beginning I had little blobs forming exactly like the right-hand circle when I printed using the USB - I presume the buffers of the USB couldn't keep up with the printing speed or something, so the printer was drawing very short lines with a brief pause at which a little blob would be deposited. That being said, the object looks a little brby VortyZA - Ormerod
I believe the actual extruded filament width is more like .6mm wide because it comes out of a .5mm hole, but is pressed up against the previous layer, so in order to respect the outside dimensions the slicers I've tried would rather not slicer a wall thinner than that - even when aligned to the slicer direction. Occasionally parts of the wall would be sliced, but I think that's more likely to beby VortyZA - Ormerod
Was the last photo your last attempt? If so, then you're still battling with a few issues I see - with guesswork: I'm thinking that there might be belt slackness - do the belts make a low tone when you flick them (think of a guitar string)? Have you done the 'Axis Compensation' section of the instructions? (https://reprappro.com/documentation/ormerod/axis-compensation/) Does the filament mby VortyZA - Ormerod
It's funny how that happens - Possible that the glass slowly weakens after each print until it physically breaks? I was using 6mm glass, so didn't expect plastic to pull off a sliver!by VortyZA - Ormerod
Possibly something along these lines - considering that each line overlaps the previous by a small amount.. But considering that they are not a simple 2D drawing but have a curve it's likely that only the overlap on the corners would result in extra material.by VortyZA - Ormerod
Quotedc42 QuoteVortyZA If you made a V, then surely the point of the V would be slightly thicker as the filament is overlapping on the same spot? Compounding that, there would be a deceleration and acceleration at the point, while the extruder is unlikely to change speed, so there would be even more excess material. In theory I don't think there should be any overlapping, unless the filament tby VortyZA - Ormerod
Sounds like a possible rounding issue to me.. Have you tried making the wall .55 or .6 wide? That was what I ended up doing when Cura and Kisslicer were either ignoring the wall entirely or were making little segments.by VortyZA - Ormerod
Quotedc42 VortyZA, what you are describing is hysteresis in the Bowden filament feed. This is an effect I had not considered, and separate from the springiness issue that I have been looking at. My hope is that during normal extrusion where filament is being extruded continually but at varying rates, hysteresis can be ignored, because there is always a positive force on the filament and so the fiby VortyZA - Ormerod
Quotedc42 I've thought about this some more and I think the main issue may be the springiness of the filament in the Bowden tube rather than the fluid dynamics in the nozzle. I've worked out a mathematical model for the effect this has, and the adjustment needed to the extruder drive step rate to counteract it. One consequence is that the end of a deceleration, it may sometimes be necessary to reby VortyZA - Ormerod