QuoteReprapper13 Well I tried to solder on a 15amp fuse tonight and once I removed the fuse holder all the tabs came free frome the board...ugh! Where is the best place to pick up a new board besides eBay so I can get my printer back up and running. GEEETECH seems to be the manufacturer for those boards They are based in china but there are distributors so have a look down the list and see ifby orictosh - General
Quotedave239 Quoteorictosh The tube that goes from the extruder drive to the hot end is 4mm PTFE when using the quick-set nozzle, supplied in the kits, it screws straight in cutting it's own thread. The 3mm tube goes from the extruder drive back towards the filament reel. Chris Hello Chris Thank you for your reply. I understand exactly what you have explained. My query is slightly more compliby orictosh - For Sale
QuoteDaGameFace What I have: Can mount this J Head hot end to it? Currently my hot end attaches to the cold end with threaded rod by that j head doesn't seem to have thread at the top. You are going to need to design a part to be able to fit the J-hot end and mount it upon your printer axis. Also ensure that the fan gets an "always on" 12V supply There are J-hot end mount plates available;by orictosh - General
QuoteFloyd Quotejinx so what you saying floyd you'll not advise but criticise because someone used a clone " and here me thinking Reprap was here to promote home 3D printing and not monuments to capitalism and what of the folks that cant afford the $50-$70 on top of everything else " they shouldn't build. I did advise, I told him I didnt think it would work. They are totally different. Also Iby orictosh - General
Quotehoxsiew The schematic shows that it connects to PWM3. I don't know how that compares with pins in pins.h. I have this board in mine and use the BOARD_ULTIMAKER in Configuration.h with no other modifications to any other files. Schematic files are here: Ahh, yes setting BOARD_ULTIMAKER in configuration.h will set up the correct pins from processor to the hardware connections. As it doby orictosh - Reprappers
Quotehoxsiew Power for the bed takes the path shown in the attached image. That's the main 12V High amp power path, bed connection is the green block and power connector is the 4 pin connector. That mosfet that this path goes though will have it's gate pin connected to a pin upon the processor. That pin has to match the one stated in the firmware.by orictosh - Reprappers
Quotetrevmas Quote0x0000 There's a CSV file in the Githib repository here. Replikeo has also published their BOM here The CSV file is not quite a complete BOM. Firstly it's 528.4 and the latest model was 528.5, secondly it doesn't seem to include the extruder or hot end components. Here is a link for BOM for 528.5 It also doesn't show the hot end parts but then I think they were moving them ovby orictosh - Ormerod
Quotecdunbars Progress - New thermistor fitted to heat bed - Repetier Host reports Heatbed temp consistent with room temp. However, in manually turning the heatbed 'ON', nothing happens. The led indicator associated with D9 of the GT2560 board doesn't light up, as D7 does when the extruder heater is manually turned on. Where, in Marlin, is the 'switch' to activate the heatbed? 'Marlin' is thby orictosh - Reprappers
QuoteVDX ... you can try with sending G-code "G1 E50". If it's set to absolute positioning, then "G91", "G1 E50", "G90" (or all three lines in a script) should do ... *Looking at the photos* Type the above into the box just below disconnected, it has the word g-code to left and send to right, when the manual control tab is selected. enter a valid g-code into that box and click send, the printerby orictosh - Reprappers
QuoteHereIgoAgain Thanks for the comments. I made a number of changes and these seem to be working. I readjusted the pot for the motor, reset the z axis, and cleaned up the printer head. Not sure which helped but it running better. Now if only I could control the warp.... thanks again ABS tends to warp more than PLA, keeping the air temperatures consistent around the printer will help ABSby orictosh - General
Quotedave239 Hello Jean-Marc I have just seen this topic and have found several Ormerod2 (FIRST batch 528.0) items that I need, already listed. Before I place my order, please can you tell me if there are any of the following still available: Main Duet board 0.5 mm one piece nozzle Proximity sensor (4 wire) alone ( i.e. without lead) Revised Ormerod 2 heated bed pcb with the spade power connecby orictosh - For Sale
Scroll down this post for a diagram of the aboveby orictosh - Ormerod
Quoteormerod168 QuoteDavek0974 Looking at it that way, all the holes could be replaced with slots - no threads to tap at all then. I am open minded as to what is best here, whats the general consensus - leave as-is, replace with threaded hole, replace all threads with slots? the function of the x-rib is to make/keep the x-axis-plate straight (wider is better) - or to put it another way, the x-aby orictosh - Ormerod
Quotedoser_fu It came back, i checked my wires and it was all ok, now its gone again... thermistor reads ok, but this will not heat up (red led will not turn on) 12v are reaching, hotend and fan work ok... no idea what is happening... :/ Is there 12v at the heated bed connections? Check the pins inside the connector housings, are they tight?by orictosh - Reprappers
QuotePromethus Well I got the parts from Maplin. It also appears that the 10amp fuse in the 3 pin plug was also killed. I have taken on your suggestion orictosh, to test the PSU, however I don't like you methodology, chopping of connectors and direct wiring, sounds kinda dangerous to me. It is/was kinda dangerous, that was the reason for the bold comments, as you are dealing with/near 240v mainsby orictosh - Ormerod
Just a thought, That little bolt (nut cut-out) slot is to me a sign that's been made the rap-rap way with laser cutter or any other method. Adding/replacing it with a tapped hole just adds another process for manufacturer. Can't see the reason for a threaded hole.by orictosh - Ormerod
Check your connections to heated bed. Ensure that the wires upon the thermistor are not touching together or any metal parts near the hot end? Check Do you have 12V at the bed connections when you request to turn on the heat bed in proterface?by orictosh - Reprappers
QuoteTreito Why do you think Replikeo has a high failure rate? Chinese based factory. Use cheap parts. Their wiring is just live and neutral and no concept of an earth circuit or using fuses. I seen an extruder that was made in that part of the world and there was a 3 core mains lead going though an unprotected metal hole in the casing and only the live (brown) and neutral(blue) connected. Theby orictosh - Ormerod
QuotePromethus I will check the wiring from the IEC connector to the PSU, but surely, the fuse would not of blown until the rocker switch on the IEC connector was flipped if the wiring was incorrect? Has anyone got any suggestion on how to fix the Duet board? The fuse that is in the IEC rocker switch is a time lag/quick blow mains (240v) type one. You should be able to see the rating upon theby orictosh - Ormerod
Quotesteve0-uk Quoteorictosh I have one MXL belt (used on the Ormerod 2) for the X axis (cut to size 710mm) Also have details of a UK based supplier so wouldn't take long to get some more. Chris Hills Hi Chris thanks for the offer, but I need a few mtrs of it OK, What length do you need? As my supplier can cut the belt to the length requested for £5.66 a metre. PM me your email so I'm ableby orictosh - For Sale
Quotesteve0-uk Hi Jean-Marc perfect... more requests if I may... any of the .5mm one piece nozzles? also, the mxl belts as used on the Ormerod 2 thanks Steve I have one MXL belt (used on the Ormerod 2) for the X axis (cut to size 710mm) Also have details of a UK based supplier so wouldn't take long to get some more. Chris Hillsby orictosh - For Sale
I have 500gram bags of silica gel type desiccant that are placed inside my filament box. Dried them by using the microwave method. I weighed them first, they weighed 580grams, set the timer for about 5 mins, keeping an eye on them, beware they get very hot. Repeated the above and once the weight had drop just below 500 grams, they were dry. Took about 20mins to dry them outby orictosh - General
Quote0x0000 Still no word from Replikeo... one week later they have yet to follow up on any of my emails. Is it possible to troubleshoot this board myself and perhaps repair it? I've tried plugging it in over USB once a night with nothing else connected - the main processor gets scorching hot and it won't respond to any commands. I've had a good look with a magnifying glass and haven't seen anyby orictosh - Ormerod
Quotederek5a Hi everyone, I am having some issues with regards to the heated bed platform for my Ormerod 2. The bed doesn't seem to work when integrated into the entire system, however works when used with a separate power supply. I have completed all tests stated on the RepRap website and checked that there was no short circuits on the bed contacts. All wiring on Duet is correct and everything eby orictosh - General
QuoteDarathy Quoteorictosh If you have the aluminium heat spreader, spend some time with emery paper removing the high spots and burrs on the faces and edges of the plate. Also before powering check for shorts between plate and PCB heat bed using a multimeter. I stupidly didn't spend much cleaning the Aluminium plate and placed 3 holes in the PCB heat bed, which I needed to cover with kapton tapby orictosh - Ormerod
If you have the aluminium heat spreader, spend some time with emery paper removing the high spots and burrs on the faces and edges of the plate. Also before powering check for shorts between plate and PCB heat bed using a multimeter. I stupidly didn't spend much cleaning the Aluminium plate and placed 3 holes in the PCB heat bed, which I needed to cover with kapton tape so the heat bed didn't shby orictosh - Ormerod
Quotesergeys Quoteorictosh A little confused; In your end-g-code section in slic3r Do you have the five lines of code (shown above) or is there more code after M84 that you don't need? Sorry, it's confusing The 5 lines above are NOT in the "End G-code" section in Slic3r config. But those 5 lines ARE in the saved file if I choose "Save for SD card print" after slicing. And seem like they corresby orictosh - Reprappers
Quotesergeys Quoteorictosh It's in slic3r Printer settings tab > Custom G-code. Yup, found that section. But I have code after everything I have in there. Namely, this is the code in my file beyond what "End G-code" has: M104 T0 S0 M140 S0 G90 G1 X100 Y0 F4800 M84 [/quote A little confused; In your end-g-code section in slic3r Do you have the five lines of code (shown above) or is there mby orictosh - Reprappers
When you home Z, place a piece of paper under the nozzle Can you just about pull the piece of paper out? Could be that your first layer is too low, causing the nozzle to back-up to a point where it cools and then blocking the nozzle causing the filament to jam the stepperby orictosh - Ormerod
Quotesergeys @orictosh - where can I configure this "end of pring" code in slic3r? I tried poking around, and can't find any configuration like that, unless I modify g code after slicing. It's in slic3r Printer settings tab > Custom G-code. You should see some large text boxes on the right hand side, one labelled Start g-code and the another end -G -code Edit the code here and printer willby orictosh - Reprappers