Wow I`m battling with this print and have given up for now, 15 tries ans no luck, with ALL kinds of settings I`m trying to print a special bar for my OROD but no luck, the bar is 180x25x8mm The problem is that after about the 5th layer the ends start to curl up, and it just keep getting worse, eventually by layer 10 I have to stop then both ends are standing up in the air and curling up 2 or 3mmby BenBB - Ormerod
Hi All I have loaded the New firmware 1.00q-dc42 however since I loaded it Pronterface does not work correctly as before, I used to do the following: 1- Load a g-file into Pronterface 2- Then Upload the g-file to the SD card 3- then start the print by doing an SD print on could then disconnect and unplug the Laptop and the printer was on it`s own Now I load the file as before HOWEVER the printeby BenBB - Ormerod
Hi All Tx for the input, bottom line is it`s not that easy to do, you will have to juggle the G-Code for such a scenario, basically stitch the 4 G-code files together, but with each object at a different position I will try that when time permits Benby BenBB - Ormerod
Revised Z-Cal I would like to share some of my build experiences/frustrations that I experienced during my RRP O.R.2 ----- I`m by no means an expert this is a BEGINNERS opinion!! I battled through some setup stuff that wasn`t clearly explained in my opinion... The biggest battle to get the OR2 printing was the fact that the nozzle/Head (mounted on the X-Axis) and Z-Axis up/down was not set-up coby BenBB - Ormerod
QuoteDave Then enter the figures you read in your compensation command (the first corner will be 0, the other 3 corners will be the values you read) OK here I`m a bit lost here, where do I enter these comp. values once I get them, which command do I use and do I do it manually in Pronterface, or in the CONFIG.G file on the SD card ? (I do find the IR quite repeatable, it always shows close toby BenBB - Ormerod
Mnnn.. a bit different to other methods, yours make sense no comp needed But what about that G31 compensation setting; the guys claim the ir is not good at 950 so they lift the head to around 550 then zero z and then add the extra offset with G31 Zx.x 550 or whatever the ir reads I can see it works. But yes it's impossible to judge the exact height the head must drop unless you have an accurate cby BenBB - Ormerod
My 2 cents... air conditioners dry out the air. If you use cable ties you will find that they break easily in winter when air is dryer ptfe or nylon types.... so I would say the breaking is as a result of dry air. ABS specifically says on the pack, use between certain temperatures and after opening shelf life is 30 days... so you can always use a temp/humidity logger to check conditions and veriby BenBB - Ormerod
Hi All I was wondering if it was possible to print the same item, on the same print bed, BUT with different SLIC3R settings ? Lets say I want to print a 20x20mm cube, duplicated 4 times, with each version with different slic3r settings Say cube 1 is printed at a specific set of setting, then another with different setting speed, layer height etc... Then save each one as g-code file... Then if oby BenBB - Ormerod
Hi Dave Tx. I Will try those settings. The heat of the lpa I see is Very important as well, I tried cold and hot 180 to 220. Higher seems to cause the part to warp more than colder and one cannot print fine details it start to warp very bad. what can you comment on the actual nozzel height from the bed.. initial printing. 0.1mm?? It seems to squash the material quite a bit has anyone printed theby BenBB - Ormerod
Tx Issue was resolved, RS electronics swopped the duet out and now it works fine, just the frustration of why in the first place, a sealed, original out of the box PCB not having components fitted.... Benby BenBB - Ormerod
It seems that the issue is the G codes that set the home positions, after setting them, the axis will NOT pass by that point, if you set the middle of the table to be X0,Y0 then the table will not pass that point if you say G1 Y-50 S1... for example. G1 Y-200 S1 the S setting does not work, it does not wan to move the y Axis... However I found a way round it, I simply manually move the table to tby BenBB - Reprappers
Hi All you 3d print beginners out there I would like to share some of my build experiences/frustrations that I experienced during my RRP O.R.2 ----- I`m by no means an expert this is a BEGINNERS opinion !! I battled through some setup stuff that wasn`t clearly explained in my opinion... The biggest battle to get the OR2 printing was the fact that the nozzle/Head (mounted on the X-Axis) and Z-Axisby BenBB - Ormerod
Hi Guys Thanks for the tips in this post, It was most helpful for a newby like myself. As I have been looking all over the web for a method to set the nozzle height correctly.. I have something called a 'feeler' guage used to set the spark plug gap on cars. It is perfect for setting the height as the shims are exact and marked in 0.01mm thickness and you can stack them as needed. I have been battby BenBB - Ormerod
Hi All I hope someone out there can help me setup the Omerod 2. I'm a total novice at 3d printing, however I am an electronic engineer and l have my own company and have been doing electronic dev. For 20 years... so I'm not all clueless, but why struggle if there are guys who are willing to help )) I bought it from RS at a good price, and thought it was a good place to start with 3d printing,.by BenBB - South Africa, Johannesburg RUG
Hi All Not sure why it is called Y-AXIS, as this seems to me like it should be X-Axis.... any way, that is the left right movement of the table.... I use the Proterface app to check the printer, I cannot seem to set the Y-Axis home pos. I click the Y-Home, but it always creeps more towards the left and never seems to repeat the same pos. How does one calibrate the Y-Pos as there are no instructioby BenBB - Reprappers
I took the PCB back to RS electronics and they gave me a new DUET, now the temperature is working 100%, so it was for sure a dud partly assembled PCB Txby BenBB - Reprappers
Hi All (Seems more appropriate here than in Reprapper....) Need some help here, I just completed my Omerod 2 kit, took a week on and off building, now at commission time the Heat Bed keeps overheating, NEVER switching off... I downloaded the schematics and traced the PCB, I found that TR1 and TR7 are missing on my PCB, yet mounted on the pic in the assy. instructions... AND I also found that theby BenBB - Ormerod
Hi All Need some help here, I just cpmpleted my Omerod 2 kit, took a week on and off building, now at commission time the Heat Bed keeps overheating, NEVER switching off... I downloaded the schematics and traced the PCB, I found that TR1 and TR7 are missing on my PCB, yet mounted on the pic in the assy. instructions... AND I also found that the heat bed control to gate of FET (TR1) is always higby BenBB - Reprappers