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Thanks! Just what I was looking for. Since we're all on the same page would you mind explaining one last detail? So you connect power (purple) to the VCC pin next to the PS_ON and the RESET switch? Will that power the Arduino, after I cut out the Diode? Thanks a ton!
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SamS
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Controllers
So skeinforge (50+) generates two g-code files in one! The second starts right after the first, so when I went to print it printed successfully but said it was only 50% done, at which point my extruder plowed through my object trying to get to zero to print again. I've gone through each of the carve settings and don't see anything that could be it. I notice that it goes through the "fill layer" p
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SamS
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Skeinforge
Sort of a dumb questio but I'm a little confused. I want to hook up my PSU to my RAMPS By plugging green into PS_ON, and then I'm gonna cut out D1 and plug a 5V line from my PSU into the electronics (either the VCC next to the reset board or the barrel plug depending on which one if those work)
But anyways, how would I turn it on then? Do I have to pick one or the other?! I just really want my e
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SamS
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Controllers
I posted a while ago about trying to power my Arduino from RAMPS. I have a Bluetooth connection, and currently I have USB going from the electronics to a wall charger, which is a pain and unnecessary. To get rid of this, the Wiki simply says to install D1. D1 was already installed! I thought I may have done something wrong, so I bought a brand new RAMPS board. Now the same thing is going on. Both
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SamS
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RAMPS Electronics
I agree with this! I'm actively involved in a longboard building forum where users get "Rep power" for making contributions. People with more rep power than them are the only people who can really boost theirs, and it's GREAT for separating out the active, involved, and knowledgeable users. Posting spam or in multiple forums or being a jerk, etc. etc. will get you negative rep and no one will lis
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SamS
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General
I motion to elect nophead as King.
But on a serious note, the mendel90 page is easily one is the best. I think it's a note of personal responsibly; I believe the solution is to get specific people on cetrain developments and tasks. We should have a section where someone pitches an idea ( who wants to develop fudge printing? Here's my idea ) and then people join them more officially than just
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SamS
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General
Hey I print motorcycle parts! I can tell you this: You can't print anything the fuel touches, even if you coat it with po15 or something like that. Also you're really going to want to print with ABS if you're trying to do anything like a side cover or flap. A 2'x2' heated bed would take an ungodly amount of power though. Like 50-100 amps I'd guess.
If you want to go big, the mendel90 is where
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SamS
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General
Turns out D1 was ALREADY installed. No idea what to do now...
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SamS
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RAMPS Electronics
I ordered some diodes to solder across D1 to kill my USB connection. I already have Bluetooth set up and working so I would really like to just have RAMPS be powered by the PSU. I finally got them and went to solder it in, but D1 WAS ALREADY INSTALLED.
So what do I do? Is there a firmware setting I'm missing? I'm using Marlin.
Thanks.
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SamS
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RAMPS Electronics
Thanks. The power supply is 12 volts.
I feel though that the MOSFET was only warm while the fuse was the thing that was very hot. I feel like too much current is going through ramps or that it's resisting it somewhere. Any other ideas?
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SamS
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General
I recently installed a heated bed, regular sized PCB MK II from a good American seller, and as the title says it wold get to about 90 degrees and RAMPS would stop inputting power. My PSU is rated for 20 amps, and this is only the bed by the way. I'm not trying to heat up or power anything else. The MOSFET terminals on RAMPS are very very hot as well, and when I went to feel them I burnt my finger
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SamS
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General
Don't use WD-40. It's a de-greaser and cleaner as well as lubricator and the LM8UU bearings will get damaged and full of sludge. Use a really light bearing lubricant like you would use for router bearings.
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SamS
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General
Is there any reason in particular that you'd need this? I could maybe see it coming in handy for travel or something like that, but other than that it's not like there is a regular difficulty finding a place to store something only a few cubic feet in volume. It's like how although I would hate having on old 20" thick tube TV, I really don't care whether or not my TV is 3" thick or 1/2" thick, as
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SamS
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Mechanics
This project is so cool. I'm from MN also and I don't envy you not having a well heated workspace this week. Where are you located?
If you are doing your pump design in solidworks/CAD program would you consider posting them? I'd love to help out and maybe have some ideas as I've worked with forming concrete to very fine tolerances in the past.
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SamS
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General
Just want to say that with 600W you will NOT need an external unit. You could run a 4x4 grid of beds and still be okay.
Also, my NEMA 17 motors are all 76 oz/in which is a LOT. They're longer than most, but that's okay because they kick so much ass. I recommend something like this for your Y axis. I currently run them at a medium speed and they don't even get warm, neither do the steppers. They
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SamS
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General
Thanks. But if I go get the correct diode and use that instead then I'm good to do whatever? And that's all I have to do, is solder the diode across D1? Thanks.
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SamS
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RAMPS Electronics
Hey guys, just installed bluetooth and it works really well. The only problem is that I still need to plug it in to power ramps, and I'm worried that I'm going to fry it if I go ahead and just try things! The instructions are all too unclear on the RAMPS page.
If I want to solder D1, do I need a diode or can I just use a small piece of wire? Also if I don't do D1, how do I use the little connec
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SamS
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RAMPS Electronics
E-mail the J-head guy, assuming you bought an actual J-head. They can sell you a little insert I'm sure for pretty cheap, that's all it'll take.
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SamS
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Reprappers
I agree lots with these guys, at .35mm nozzle and 3mm filament you'll need to be much more accurate than most with this number. Also check your thermistor settings in firmware. If you, in any way, can get access to an infrared gun check your hotend temp. There are several things that could prevent the value being shown in the host from being the actual temp.
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SamS
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General
Exactly. I want to find out how big of a drum I can use before the resolution comes out over those other sources of error.
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SamS
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Reprappers
bobc, Thanks for the input! That's really interesting. Uncle_bob, THANKS. That makes sense and is very much what I'm looking for.
I think I'm going to try a few different sizes. Attached is a graph of pulley diameter vs. accuracy. (In mm.) I'll try a few around the 10-20 range and see If there's a noticeable difference.
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SamS
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Reprappers
Thanks, but as I mentioned I understand the qualitative limits of accuracy. Also I'm curious- can you manually specify accuracy in other slicing programs? I use slic3r and my only control there is layer height, which I am not concerned about.
I thought of an easier way to explain it. Say I had only one step per cm: the object would come out looking like it was made out of legos. The sides might
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SamS
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Reprappers
So for my next build I will be using titanium thread instead of belts and was trying to think of what size drum to print. If I just wrapped it around the shaft of the motor, I did the math and with 1/16 microstepping I would be getting over 200 steps PER MM. Meaning I could theoretically partition one single millimeter into 200 different sections. On the other hand, a 100 mm drum would only get m
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SamS
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Reprappers
For ABS, at say $10 per lb that's $22 per kg which isn't worth it in my opinion. Also are you sure it's pure enough to be extruded?
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SamS
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General
I had a similar issue, where it started off nice and messed up a few mm up. Make sure your idler is really tight- it should hurt your finger to pull it back. listen closely for a "clicking" when it starts to mess up. This is the hobbed bolt slipping on the filament which is very bad but can be fixed in a few ways.
My bet is that it's a jam.
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SamS
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General
Thanks for the replies.
I'm not too new, I've been doing this a while but the hot-end is only new because I had a knockoff that broke and so I ordered this one right from hotends.com. Is a fan blowing right on the PEEK the next thing to try? I'm doing it in a Minnesotan basement- it's dry as a bone.
Thanks.
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SamS
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General
Has anyone switched from low grade PLA to something nice, either PLA or ABS? I'm using the cheapest black pla that I could get from eBay/China, regretfully, and it just feels cheap. It feels almost porous and it is a matte color rather than my previous roll which was fairly glossy. Print quality is really bad, and now I can't get above 5 mm without jamming.
Its gets to a weird stage where it's
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SamS
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General
I planned on having a "pinching" tension system so that there would be no pressure pushing the carriage in one direction. I feel like it could get more accuracy than belts. Have you seen it done? Why isn't it more common? ...Hmm.
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SamS
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Mechanics
Building a mendel90ish style printer, and the Y axis motor is going to be placed vertically below the center of the bed. The bottom of the bed will have attached to it a belt glued vertically on a specially designed Y axis carriage (or just a printed part with the same tooth placement) Can anyone see any immediate disadvantages or deal-breakers? I do think I'll need a way to tension it....any Ide
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SamS
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Mechanics
This bill is GREAT for newer inventors/manufacturers.
It basically prevents (or helps prevent) patent trolling. Here's what a patent troll is:
Basically when a company goes out of business they will liquidate assets to try to stay afloat before they have to declare bankruptcy. If you look at a balance sheet for a company there will we an "intangible" assets account or something like that which
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SamS
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General
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