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That is what I ended up doing. I was wondering if there was something else I was over looking.
Thanks Mike
by
Miertam
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General
I have several smallish spools of PLA when the filament gets near the end of the spool it becomes very springy and tends to tangle at the extruder and not want to come off the spool. Does anyone have any ideas on how to get it to relax a bit before it feeds into the extruder?
Thanks Mike
by
Miertam
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General
As I was trying to answer a user on how to scale up a 3d printer. I had the thought that most of the time you don’t need to scale up everything you just want to be able to print things that are longer than normal. The solution I hit on is using a silicon conveyor belt. A printbed wide driver wheel with geared teeth on the edges to make sure you get a steady movement. Your print area would have to
by
Miertam
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Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Most of the problems with scaling up printers has to do with the flexibility of the X and Y rods. When you get much longer than 2 feet there is a significant bow in the smooth rods. Even going with larger diameter rods you are adding extra weight to the system causing more bowing/binding. A solution is to use rails/channels instead of rods for your X and y I think the Prusa i3 Vslot variant is a
by
Miertam
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Reprappers
In that case I would find a SAE (provided you are in the US) parts list and head down to Lowes/Home depot Parts doing a quick online shopping trip I end up with a total of $60-65 and a lot of extra parts. You will have to source the bearings belts and pullies oneline.
Thanks Mike
by
Miertam
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Reprappers
QuoteMrDoctorDIV
The bed only moves on the Z.
Silicone still needs to be mounted on the build plate, and that would make mounting the plate extremely difficult, they're not something I can just drill a large hole through. I don't mind power so much as heating time.
I also am trying to really up the ante on looks. Besides the heating for bed and environment, I've got almost everything figured out
by
Miertam
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Reprappers
Well that depends on what you value. Almost everything in that kit could be bought at a hardware store for about 3/4 of what they are charging. But, there is lots of value to having all the parts assembled together for you. In the Time/money/quality equation what is your priority?
Thanks Mike
by
Miertam
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Reprappers
It took some tweaking to get my printer, Prusa i2 from 3dstuffmaker, to print it out in a quality and speed that I liked. Here are my slicing settings from Cura
layer_height = 0.09
wall_thickness = 0.9
retraction_enable = True
solid_layer_thickness = 0.9
fill_density = 100
nozzle_size = 0.35
print_speed = 50
print_temperature = 210
print_bed_temperature = 0
support = Touching buildplate
platform_
by
Miertam
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Reprappers
That is awesome..Will print it out this evening when I get home from work.
thanks Mike
by
Miertam
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Reprappers
You Might want to ask this over in the Printing sub-forum. But I would try turning up the hotend temp. Each batch of filament is different and while it's best practice to start out at 185-190 for PLA if you have extrusion issues then you walk it up until you have a nice flow.
Thanks Mike
by
Miertam
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Printing
Well if you want to walk in and pick it up Fry's Electronics down in Renton stocks it Aisle 14. You can also order online. I Have used NewEgg they are a drop shipper for Cisinks. (I will put links at the bottom. ) After that There are a few plastic suppliers in Seattle you can call. And there is always Amazon..
Thanks Mike
by
Miertam
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General
I just printed a couple of these out and they work great
If you added a hole to the top corner and the RepRap logo it becomes a keyfob that is useful. It took about 5 minutes to print both of them.
by
Miertam
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Reprappers
To fix your Z Axis. First loosen your frame up. Second run your Z as high as it will go. If it binds check the bound rod and adjust it until it's straight. Once the carriage is at the top make sure it's level if it isn't level it out.. Then tighten everything down. If everything else is square geometry should give you two parallel rods. Run your Z up and down checking for bent rods and give it a
by
Miertam
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General Mendel Topics
Quotejbernardis
I guess naive was a strong word, and I apologize for using it. What it boils down to for me is that I wouldn't even take notice if the wires were soldered in the picture because it would be immaterial to me. There's an expectation that some assembly would be required, and frankly I enjoy that aspect of the hobby. I might even remove the wires if I felt they were of insufficien
by
Miertam
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Reprappers
Quotevreihen
QuoteMiertam
The choice of Amazon was due to the utter lack of electronics suppliers in the Seattle Meto area. There are a few raido shacks left (shutter) but when I started calling up local electrical supply stores they just keep refering me to Fry's or Amazon.. Fry's is close-ish a 2 hour bus ride but Amazon I can just click a button.
Please forgive my left coast ignorance, but
by
Miertam
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Reprappers
Well mostly.
As I was struggling to attach a new J-head to my printer and trying to come up with creative insults. It occurred to me that the phrase “Curse the Maker” has different connotations around these forums than it does in general society. Now back to your regularly scheduled printer problems.
Thanks Mike
by
Miertam
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General
I would check to make sure my tooth gear was gripping my filament. Looking at the picture I see there is a smooth idler on the end of the toothed gear if the filament is running up over that there might not be enough bite to push it through. After that I would tighten the spring down to it's max and slowly back it off. The last thing I would look at is your stepper motor it might be malfunctionin
by
Miertam
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General
The bot as I see it would have to be modular and since you are talking 3rd world country run on a variety of fuels/power sources.I am thinking something about the size of a small garden tractor. it would have to:
1. Know where it is and what to do. This could be done with a smart phone GPS + solar powered local wifi transponders. You calibrate it then spot check periodically.
2. Determine the
by
Miertam
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Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
QuoteTraumflug
Quotejbernardisit is naive to assume that you are going to get the heated bed with wires already soldered in place.
Interesting opinion. "It's naive to assume a product looks like what you see on the photo".
That said, not much mercy with Amazon buyers. Make stuff yourself and you know what you get:
That was my thought If I go to the store and buy a can with peaches on the la
by
Miertam
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Reprappers
Would a 3 axis bearing like a roller coaster wheel work in this situation? You could use thiner rods/tubes with support welded to the back. If you used tubes you could make the supports do double duty as connectors allowing you to create a linear run as long as you want.
Thanks Mike
by
Miertam
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Mechanics
My hotend has one of these plugs attached to it . Two screws slide out the plate and pop in a new print head.
Thanks Mike
by
Miertam
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Printing
Well my blue painters tape is.
I was having a problem with getting my prints to release without ripping the tape off my bed. Tape is cheap but it's a pain to have to replace it every print. So I experimented with anything I could print on. I have a unheated aluminum print bed and I am printing PLA.
Things that worked:
Cardboard/fiberboard Pro; Cheap, easy get prints off, prints always stuck,
by
Miertam
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Mechanics
So this is a am I being a dick question. My printer didn't come with a heated bed so I poked around and found one on amazon.
I picked that one specifically because the picture shows the leads attached to the bed. There is a question about this specific thing and the answer seems to be Affirmative. When it arrived..no leads. I can solder everything on myself but I suck at it. So I left a 3 sta
by
Miertam
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Reprappers
I think I would have to replace my controler board for that. I have a Gen 6 knockoff.
But..for my next printer..
Mike
by
Miertam
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General
Have you looked at your bearings/rods yet? I had a similar problem with my Z axis it turned out to be the motor binding on a kinked rod. A sticky bearing would cause a similar issue.
Mike
by
Miertam
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Printing
A single print on my fairly slow i2 takes 18 minutes to print with a 40mm/s print speed with 100% infill. I was using it as my test print to calibrate my printer. A faster/better set up printer would of course reduce that time quite a bit.
Mike
by
Miertam
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Reprappers
There are several manuals, But it looks like you have solved your connectivity issue and now have moved on to a print issue.
What software are you using? Most of the time if you just google "Using (software name here) to print 3d " it will pop up several videos on that software.
by
Miertam
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General
Oh, I have been searching for something like that! It looks like I might have to print out a foot for it to get it to work with my setup. It's something I might be able to just walk into a auto parts store and pick up.
Thank You Mike.
by
Miertam
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General
I am looking for something to use after my innital setup. I have the bed pretty level right now. I would like something that when I notice that the printbed is say higher in one corner (My usual clue is the brim is more squished on one side of the print.) I can make a slight adjustment then go on with the print.
Thanks Mike
by
Miertam
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General
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