it says " CAN NOT OPEN COM PORT 3 " try changing the com port setting ( inside Pronterface settings )by Mickman - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm trying to get my Prusa i3 up and running but am getting an Arduino error when verifying Marlin.ino The firmware needs to be uploaded to a Sanguinololu 1.2 board. I can see the board in my Arduino library & I can turn power on and off to it from within Repitier ( OSX version ) so I guess I have the USB ports correct. Note: I am running a MAC book pro. I used to haveby Mickman - Prusa i3 and variants
I'll take a look at the temp history... I've never actually used it which is probably a bad thing. I normally heat the nozzle in the range of 200 -210 celsius. 240 ! Wow that's some heat you're pumping out.. I'll even try upping my temp as I often get lots of stringy filament.by Mickman - General Mendel Topics
Hi, not sure why but all of a sudden the extruder motor has stopped. I can extrude manually in Repetier so the motor is operational, but when I hit print it does not feed. The extruder motor does not turn. I tried many settings in Repetier with no luck. I'm running a Prusa i3 / Wades extruder, Repetier host & Marlin firmaware on a MacBook Pro. Any ideas where I've gone wrong ??by Mickman - General Mendel Topics
I'm running Repetier (Mac version) & use Marlin firmware. I had this issue for a few days.. after unplugging the actual Printer & re-starting my computer several times it seems to be ok now... but is worrying. Now onto my next issue... for some reason I have lost filament feed.. hhmmm ?? but that's probably best discussed in another thread.by Mickman - General Mendel Topics
note sure why .. but the z-axis thickness is a little thin... you can see slihgt holes in the final layer as seen in this image. The coin sits nicely inside this 1 euro calibration shape Coin PHOTO how can I add more thickness in the Z-axis ?by Mickman - General
There's an experimental setting in Repetier called " Vibration Limit " It's an experimental setting. So I'm just wondering what the min. - max. value might be ? eg. 20hz 100hz ? 0.1 hz ?by Mickman - General
Hi, I am almost finished calibration of my Prusa i3 but I am not sure I understand how to adjust the height for each layer... currently I am using Repetier Host. I am changing the Z-axis value in Configuration.h file in Arduino eg.. #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.0000,80.0000,1000.0*8/3,800*1.1} but I am wondering... should I only be changing the Cofiguration inby Mickman - Printing
check the " MicroDuino " - 303 KIT " now on KickStarter. ( a simple effective & cheap way to run any repRap & it takes very little space. ) comes with 4x stepper motor driver boards, LCD panel microduino ( Arduino uno - half the scale ) CLICK HERE to check it outby Mickman - General
I notice that Repetier often provides false temperature values. I have a Panelou LCD panel attached to a Sanguinolou board. The LCD shows proper nozzle & bed temps. but Repetier often shows a temp of 22 degrees ( as though its turned off ) Any other users experiencing this ? There must be loads of users without LCD panels who solely rely on Repetier temps... & those temps muby Mickman - General Mendel Topics
Prusa i3 & Wade's extruder: I'm trying to get the nozzle to sit closer to the bed once the print starts. I have set it up so it is paper thin from the bed in the HOME position but when the print actually starts it moves the nozzle up approx. 2mm from the bed so the filament is not laying down nice & thin. I believe I need to adjust the z-axis height, so for example, below where I haby Mickman - General Mendel Topics
@ Waitaki: ok I'll check out the Z-axis end-stop today... sure hope its as simple as the end-stop failing. As I was so close to final calibrations. Actually this might make sense as I had to remove the end-stop the other day to add 2 Z-axis aluminium couplers... After changing the standard rubber tubes couplers I had to shave of some of the coupler mounting clamp plastic so the aluminiby Mickman - General Mendel Topics
Thanks for the reply... I'm still battling away here trying to calibrate my i3. If its not the filament slipping on the hobb bolt.. its issues with filament not sticking to the bed.. & now its my z-axis home position raising approx. 3mm each time I hit home... so after homing a few times the nozzle ends up 10mm above the bed. Why has it starting doing this ??by Mickman - General Mendel Topics
Why is it each time I hit home it raises the Z-axis by a few mm ? It used to go home and then move down approx. 2 turns in the z-axis hit the end stop & then move up slightly to home itself... but now it simply goes home & then moves up 2 turns rather than down.. so it no longer hits the end-stop. hhhmm ??by Mickman - General Mendel Topics
I am suffering from Hobbed bolt not biting on the filament... even after cleaning the bolt. & tensioning the idlerby Mickman - General Mendel Topics
HI.. my printer is not extruding enough filament .. most of the the time the hobbed bolt is simply not feeding the filament.. I can physically push the filament through the extruder and watch it spiral out the nozzle as it melts... no problem, I can also feed manually within Repetier & i see the filament spiral out.. BUT when I start a job the feed will start and maybe put down one thiby Mickman - Printing
HI.. all of a sudden my heat-bed has stopped heating.. it worked fine & now nothing... a few days ago I went & purchased a better quality soldering iron so as to attach the wires to the bed more securely as my last welds were a bit dodgy. So now I hsve nice strong welds with plenty of solder... & the bed was working great.. but now its suddenly stopped. So I have a multimeter tby Mickman - Printing
I'm checking the belt tension.. I think this could be the culprit.. not certain though as I can't perform another print till I work out why my hetbed has stopped heatingby Mickman - Printing
I am 90% there... prints are starting to become smoother but the Y-Axis is sloping back along with each layer. I've attached an image of a calibration cube I just printed. I believe I need to adjust the Y-Axis to compensate for this drifting backwards. X-Axis is great and my steps along the Z-axis height are fine too. so what's the best way to adjust this Y-axis problem... in the calby Mickman - Printing
I had this same issue... & yes I was printing the same thin walled calibration cube. To fix this I went into the Marlin.PDE file ( this is in Arduino ) & then clicked the configuration.h file. scrolled down to section where it allows you to alter " define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_Per_Unit " for example mine reads //*************** MY CALIBRATION Section *************** //by Mickman - Printing
I have yet t otry lemon juice as I;ve just discovered PVA glue & water 20% pva to water mix... this works really well for me.. but I'll give lemon a squeeze shortly.. do you mean lemon squeezed from an actual lemon or the bottled stuff ? I'm guessing if it sticks too much you can simply dilute it till you get the best adherence.by Mickman - Printing
regarding blue tape's extra height tolerance or forgiveness... yes the tape does in fact allow for a nozzle that might bear down to hard onto the plate... I have had a few occasions (being a newbie ) where the nozzle is actually touching the plate (glass ) ever so slightly.. even to the extent where I cracked a piece of 3mm glass... so the the tape actually leaves a shallow groove where the nozzlby Mickman - General
Thx so much for all the replies.. this will help me in my endeavours to attaining a half decent 1st layer hold. What's been extremely frustrating for me over the past days is my prints look great if I nurse the printer nozzle as it extrudes the first 2-3 layers. Normally layer 1 is a complete mess.. I use tweezers to quickly pull the entire mess away since it just ends up in a birds nest flby Mickman - General
Just wondering what's the best approach to heated beds & PLA ? I read that hairspray is used or blue painter's tape... & some even recommend plain glass.. note: I don't have a fan directed at the nozzle. If it helps I can easily purchase a fan... So what temperature should I heat the plate to when trying hairspray & should I spray it on before heating the bed ? I've triedby Mickman - General
Yes I ahd the same issue ... my hobbed bolt was too tight. Once I loosened it all was well...by Mickman - General
Hi, I'm using Repetier as my host application & am so close to finally calibrating my Prusa i3... but for some reason the Z-axis is not stepping far enough each turn .. So I think I need to increase the z-axis steps. yes ? I've looked over the Prusa calculator... but I'm not sure exactly how to add this to Marlin''s Configuration.h file Here's the area within the file that I believe tby Mickman - Repetier
I hope you own a good set of vernier calipers. This is probably the number one tool for RepRappers. + a right angle square with leveling bubble. I'm currently building several Prusa i3s ( single steel frame ) steel framed Prusa are relatively easy to square up as the smooth rods simply pop into the plastic end pieces etc.. but still some measuring is required.by Mickman - Reprappers
Wow, this is really neat... nice work. I wonder if it's possible to incorporate reinforcing wire in future versions ? concrete is not very strong without some form of reinforcing... yes ?by Mickman - General
noting under 20amps - 30amps is even better. You need to power 5 motors + a heatbed + fans + perhaps a second extruder. personally I'd run with 30 amps.by Mickman - General