You're right, I re-looked at it after your reply and I have aux-2 un-used and it has 8 pins available. I think I'll go for D63 -> En, D40 -> Dir and D42 -> step. Stepper Motor Driver Expansion Boardby Slapparoo - RAMPS Electronics
Hi, I'm not sure if this has been considered previously and already solved (or maybe its not a good Idea), I am keen on a Voron esk printer, but I'm not keen on the price, I was thinking I can get a triple z driver controller through Ramps 1.4 board (with a couple of wires hanging off the side). What I am thinking for the Z I would use the 2 E's and Z becomes E, but for the wiring of Z there wouby Slapparoo - RAMPS Electronics
Thank you, thats exactly what I'm after.by Slapparoo - Reprappers
Has anybody attempted using an adapted waffle maker/iron for heated bed element, primarily to get the full benefit of mains power, probably run as a separate mains plugs and temperature control? Out of the box there would be a couple of modifications to shape and temperature control I was just wondering if its worth even thinking about going down that route.by Slapparoo - Reprappers
I have a feature request to add the option of turning off the heated bed (starting cooling down) while the last layer or couple of layers are being printed.by Slapparoo - Slic3r
I am going to respond to the question of gearing down: I could be wrong but I am not aware of any printer that can actually print at its full movement speed (unless of course its full movement speed is geared down), so it leaves a lot of scope for gearing down while still retaining the same - or better print speed. I am of the opinion that you will get *better* print speeds with lower gearing (by Slapparoo - General
If you do want to use the masking tape - the more expensive blue painters tape is a finer grained paper, so while you will get good adhesion you can still remove the parts. (I generally print PLA straight on the glass at around 60 degress, it binds while the glass is hot and comes straight off once cool, I use the tape for ABS.)by Slapparoo - Printing
I have successfully implemented a servo controlled z-probe on my bowden extruder, what I did was mount the servo on the frame, then use a standard bicycle brake cable attached to the servo at one end and then attached to a hinged latch which has the micro switch attached, the latch has a tiny adjuster screw for fine adjustment. When the servo engages it pushes the cable, which pushes the latch doby Slapparoo - General