Sublime, I'd like to thank you for all that valuable information. You removed some false ideas I had accumulated, reading around or guessing about skeinforge settings : - I thought flowrate should be left at the default 210 and never touched when using dimension. - I believed Perimeter Width over Thickness was something you measure, not that you can choose. - I had no idea about packing densityby DeuxVis - General
It doesn't do a full verification of the data sent, but in my experience when it says "done uploading", it works. Probably at least got an acknowledge from the board.by DeuxVis - Sanguino(lolu)
Nudel Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Check out the wiki: > I'd like to try another solution : porting the heater management daughter board code from stock monotronics firmware (a modified FiveD I guess) to sprinter - or other firmwares. This would avoid the need for hardware modifications. I just don't have enough time on my hands currentlyby DeuxVis - General
On ubuntu, something like that should do it : sudo apt-get install python-tkby DeuxVis - Skeinforge
R. McShane, you probably want to open your own topic in the appropriate section :by DeuxVis - For Sale
Dependsby DeuxVis - For Sale
Tony's motor are second hand and thus cheap. Recommended seller.by DeuxVis - Wanted
JoeDaStudd Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- >> How can I test that my hot end is even getting >> hot? > The heater block should be noticeable warm/hot. > The safest and most accurate way to test the > temperature would be something like an infra-red > thermometer. You can use some thermal paper, touch the tip with it and it should get blackby DeuxVis - General Mendel Topics
Je suis en train de m'en procurer une pour monter une prusa. Je suis une quiche en électronique, mais je comprends bien l'anglais. Dis nous si tu as des problèmes spécifiques.by DeuxVis - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Harrypotaire Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Merci de ta réponse qui entraine d'autre > questions... mais me motive encore plus dans mon > projet C'est bien naturel. Plus on est de fous... > Oui j'avais pensé à faire plusieurs pièce pour > un assemblage ultérieur. > Même avec une buse à tête fixe, 0,5mm par > exemple, tu peux jouer sur la rby DeuxVis - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > PLEASE boycot EsunPLA > > They have no issues using your photos to promote > their business. > > This is their flickr account > > /6284940180/ which contains some of my > NON-commercial work (my photos) And many of > yours. > > DO NOT BUY PLA FROM EsunPLA Indeed I already saw most oby DeuxVis - For Sale
Harrypotaire Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Je voulais savoir jusqu'où on pouvait aller? En gros, la limite la plus vite atteinte est le temps que tu peux y passer > - Ce que je veux dire c'est, qu'en regardant à > droite et à gauche, que j'ai constaté que l'on > ne pouvais pas forcément réaliser de beau trou > cylindrique latérale (cf l'imageby DeuxVis - RepRap Groupe d'Utilisateurs Francophone
Grumpy Mike Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > So I guess that the several hundred pounds I have > spent on the machine and the many many hours I > have spent on rubbish software that won't work, is > all down the drain. Only if you give up... I suggest you open up a new topic in the main forum, with a clear title containing like "Mac problem", and hopeby DeuxVis - General
I have one those those, but secured by the peek block and 2 threaded rods. Never got a problem. I believe those are not designed to operate without the peek attachment.by DeuxVis - General
Traumflug Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hello, Sarah-with-the-nice-tongue, Hint : in French tongue and language are the same word ("langue").by DeuxVis - Developers
Regarding the inkjet cartridge solution, here's something that could help : I have one coming my way, and sooner or later it will end up on a reprap of some sort.by DeuxVis - Developers
Second advice, in the mean time you can still use tricks to make your original hotend usable for some time : - Constrain the ptfe thermal barrier with a hose clamp - it will slow down the creeping. - Drill 2 holes in the ptfe and slightly scratch the barrel so that 2 little screws / bolts can block the barrel from unscrewing itself out - see . I did this myself while waiting for the new hotend.by DeuxVis - Huxley
The way I understand the documentation, in your case Bottom would make the print start at 0.3 (your layer height) times 0.7 (Additional Height over Layer Thickness) = 0.21 mm above the print surface. If you disable it, I believe your first layer will hardly be printed because the extrusion hole will still be stuck right onto the bed.by DeuxVis - Skeinforge
The very first advice coming to my mind is : change to another hotend. You'll need to do it sooner or later, so better save your time. The original one is the major flaw in that kit : - It's trying to keep the metal barrel secured inside ptfe, which will only work for a little time : the ptfe will creep and let go the barrel (and the fact you have such a big expansion at the end of the filamentby DeuxVis - Huxley
*facepalm* That sounds sooo evident when you write it. Thanks, I've not been trying that in a while, will do. I suppose it also require to set skeinforge to do a single perimeter and no shells at all.by DeuxVis - Skeinforge
You probably have to adjust your Z_STEPS_PER_MM firmware value.by DeuxVis - General
I did that, and it worked fine under SF41. And a few days in SF 43 too. Then something changed. Do we have fairys or little devils living in the reprap machines ? Anyway, you're right, I'll check my E_STEPS again just to be sure.by DeuxVis - General
I'm starting to remake (the techzone provided STL are not always clean) and/or hack some parts for my Huxley. I will list them here. Let me know if you try them, have a comment, suggestion, anything. Extruder gears -by DeuxVis - Huxley
Right, got the point, higher resolution without making the print last forever. I can't wait to try one of those boards.by DeuxVis - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
kwixson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > MakerGear is awesome! Who else sends chocolate > with their orders?! I don't know for chocolates, but the grrf send gummy bears in their package I've never bought from makergear personally, but have seen some packages people I know received; Only good things to say about it.by DeuxVis - General
I have the same problem, the weird part is it did start after I upgraded to SF43 - I mean, not right after, but a few days later. For now I workarounded it by giving more flowrate (315 instead of 210) in the "speed" tab. It does a lil too much extrusion on the first layer then, but not enough to be a showstopper. I'd really like to understand what is happening there.by DeuxVis - General
That problem stopped to be one for me when I changed skeinforge settings to do loops then shell then infill. The blob is inside the infill, and thus no longer annoying. I think that's in the "Fill" plugin tab.by DeuxVis - General
Parabolic, if you still want to print pla without a heated bed, give a try to 3M/Scotch blue tape - I just did myself, and it does miracles to avoid pla warp.by DeuxVis - General
Now you just have to film that nice machine printing a teapot (Sorry for the cliché, couldn't resist)by DeuxVis - General Mendel Topics