Traumflug Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > IMHO, a good reason for push fit connectors are, > you can unplug and re-plug a motor without making > a headache on the wiring. Sorting these four wires > each time isn't exactly convenient. > > If the machine vibrates too much - well, then put > the electronics seperate or mount it with > somethiby pokey9000 - Controllers
It's Thefutureis3d's blue 3mm PLA. It's kind of translucent, not opaque like Ultimachine's blue. I have a roll of white from them as well, and I'm going to use that for the connectors. I finished Middle_1 last night using the same process as I did for Base_4 but with a 50C hotbed, and got some lifting at all the corners. The corners of my Middle_1 and Base_1 have some gaps since both had waby pokey9000 - Tantillus
Yet another build log. I spent the weekend printing the base pieces. Base_1 was done on hot Kapton since the filament I have doesn't like bare glass. Even then I got some warping at the ends. For Base_2 and Base_3 switched to cold painter's tape. The ends stayed mostly flat, but the corner lifted somewhat. I did Base_4 with painter's tape, but heated the bed to 60 C and used Slic3r 0.8.4 toby pokey9000 - Tantillus
Gorilla glue works great for PLA-PLA bonding and PLA-to-most anything else. Among other parts I've glued with Gorilla Glue, my Prusa y-carriage is stuck to the bearing holders with it and has survived numerous crashes against the rail ends and other sorts of abuse.by pokey9000 - Tantillus
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > pokey9000 Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > -I have finished printing three of the base > pieces > > (base_1 to base_3) and I'm getting about 1mm of > > warp at the ends and in the corner. Will this > > screw things up when assembled if the rest of &gby pokey9000 - Tantillus
I've been following this for quite a while and I'm glad I've got another chance to build a Tantillus without major parts scrounging. A few questions first: -I'm planning to get the print-everything-yourself kit, and I see little mention anywhere about the upper and lower bed. Those should be easy enough to cut and drill by hand, right? -Is there any reason a Sanguinololu wouldn't work insteadby pokey9000 - Tantillus
Heat up the bed and hotend before leveling, and let them sit for 10 minutes after they've reached temp. Hot glass and brass/aluminum expand. And make sure leveling includes adjusting the z-endstop too.by pokey9000 - General Mendel Topics
Have you verified that your hotend thermistor is telling you the truth? 180 is too cool for PLA to get that glossy at any reasonable speed. Check your thermistor settings in your firmware (IIRC the one J-Head ships with is 1) and that your thermistor is making good contact with the brass block. I wound up putting a dab of muffler putty in the thermistor cavity along with Kapton on top to securby pokey9000 - Printing
The heater drivers on Sanguinololu are PWM, so even when set at the minimum the heater output will output a pulse that alternates between 0 and 12v. You'd need an oscilliscope or a low pass filter to watch the output vary.by pokey9000 - Sanguino(lolu)
I heat my j-head to 80C, then let it soak for a minute or two. Then I turn off the motors in Pronterface and by hand gently rotate the big gear to pull it out. Everything up to the nozzle in the chamber will come out in a solid chunk. After priming the new filament, you shouldn't see the old color at all.by pokey9000 - General
Rename your old Slic3r directory or delete it, copy the Slic3r directory in the .zip where the old one used to be, and you're done. If you already had Slic3r set up with Pronterface it should just work.by pokey9000 - Slic3r
Your post convinced me to borrow a thermocouple set from the office for the night... Fortunately my hotend runs about 2 degrees cooler inside the chamber than the electronics reports. I can't find the recommended temp on Faberdashery's site. I noticed that their datasheets call our NatureWorks 4043D, which is the same as the natural PLA I normally use from Ultimachine at about 180C. From whatby pokey9000 - For Sale
Just wanted to say that I've been using the Buttercream from this pack for the last few days. After a little tweaking to find that this likes printing at ~170C (according to my thermistor), I have made a couple of picture perfect 20mm calibration cubes. He mentions on his site that this filament is sourced from Faberdashery, and the quality of what i've received seems to match what I've heard oby pokey9000 - For Sale
Pin 1 is MISO, so you would use the 6-pin cable and put the stripe to the left. The key peg should be situated right above SCK as well as another point of reference. FWIW, if you look at the back of the board, you'll notice the MISO pin pad is square, denoting pin 1.by pokey9000 - Sanguino(lolu)