Endstop Microswitchby Bobyni - Reprappers
jumping into this conversation.... DO we modify the firmware when using a SSR? The reason I ask, is that I I just FRIED mine at first usage after 20 mins of usage. Luckily, My house was not burn down.... It is just the SSR that was kaput! Mine is SSR-DD 25A and my bed is MKA 1.3 ohms with SWPS at 13.5V MArlin V1 Melzi V3b by Zonestar. the temp reached so high (i left unattended) that melt tby Bobyni - Reprappers
If anyone have made an enclosure for the Printer, you should consider to print this out and add on to your printer!!! I find it to be a must have thing!! Cheersby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotedsol @Bobyni wow, very nice... dont forger to post after you clean everything and insert the printer ! i think ill do the same with the electronic on the back of the box in my setup @madias chack this out if you have an rpi laying around ill say go for that (or even buy one..,) im useing it with the fitst version of the Raspberry Pi and everything work awsome ! it can even give you timeby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
here is my update for my enclosure After the first ABS wrap, I decided to get an enclosure for my printer. moved the Melzi out have added several control on/off switches for - Main power -SSR to run the hpt bed - dedicated 110V AC fan for the ctrl board - nozzle fan - 12V RBG LED strip lighting - 24V LED white light - temperature prove to the inside of chamber with LCD - USB/VCC select switchby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
mine is 220x220x230 from 3d star aliexpress P802M black Melzi by Zonestar V3bby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemadias ok. I'm done with my experiences with the melzi board. Neither firmware I installed is better than the original installed one and for this I do not have the source code. I have my ramps 1.4 on my desk with minimum connections (not to a real printer) and I'll invest my time for it (nearly configurated the firmware from zero). Remember: You can never install a secondary extruder on melzby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteErikL Anyone tried these ? Wondering if it's worth something or just better don't try I think it is a great thing to do... the guy is out from Quebec, Canada. I saw his post on the FB and it really looks good and should be included on every Zonestar.... but, at $13... I resist to If he shared in Thingiverse, I would definitely have done it!by Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemadias Zonestar/Hesine (what ever name they use now/past/future, they are all the SAME) is a really annoying company. The totally hesitated to give away the source code of their firmware in the past and this is strictly against open source policy. So copy the ideas from others (what is ok, if open source like our printer) and then they keep secret their minor changes (and errors). But oneby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemadias Hello, I'm also a owner of this printer (sold as "Hesine M505" the black acrylic one - firmware is the same:FIRMWARE_NAME:Repetier_V1.4 ). First some quick fixes of mine (if not already written in this thread): 1) My PSU is rated 15A (on the black hesine). This is much to low, turn the skrew on the PSU to max 13.5V for getting some degrees more on the heatbed and stability reasons.by Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteScottjar I've also had the same issue with 3d star on the melzi board. They've sent the firmware but the instructions are terrible. Read the reprap and repetier sites as you need to use the correct arduino IDE and board info to load it. If you can I've logged a dispute as I can't re-flash the board. Any help would be good for me I really don't want to have to buy another board Any ideas onby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteglimpse79 QuoteBobyni Quoteglimpse79 Here some result.. the keyring in my opinion is good, the plane have some probs, what you suggest? what could be the causes?you still don't have levels bed. You can see your skirt perimeter is uneven. The left side is too close to the nozzle and the right side is too far Really non easy I'll try more and more.. But also.. what is a good kit to add auby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
QuotePatrisio QuoteBobyni Patrisio If you have disconnected your usb cable from the Melzi board and it still reboot by it self, try to disconnect all the connectors one by one to see if any of them would cause the reboot been stopped. You need to isolate the board from any other cable that is connected to it. This way, you could see wether the board is defective or something is causing theby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
take a look here it is my design for the captive sensor. I did not buy from the seller, and created the holder for my sensor and made it to work. sensor came from ebay know how from Tom's Sanladerer and then 5 nights of testing frustration and success..... i use marlin and not the repetier for ABLby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
QuotePatrisio QuoteBobyni QuotePatrisio Quotegwc2795 I can not over emphasize that you make sure the power wires from the power supply to the Melzi board are firmly attached at both the power supply the Melzi board. The Amount of power drawn by the extruder and the bed heater will cause rebooting if the connections are not tight. How do I know this? I have 4 of these printers and it drove me partby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteglimpse79 Here some result.. the keyring in my opinion is good, the plane have some probs, what you suggest? what could be the causes?you still don't have levels bed. You can see your skirt perimeter is uneven. The left side is too close to the nozzle and the right side is too farby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
QuotePatrisio Quotegwc2795 I can not over emphasize that you make sure the power wires from the power supply to the Melzi board are firmly attached at both the power supply the Melzi board. The Amount of power drawn by the extruder and the bed heater will cause rebooting if the connections are not tight. How do I know this? I have 4 of these printers and it drove me partially insane until I discoby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteNorcoT ISSUE: Screen flickering on Zonestar Prusa / Reboot mid-print. When not printing it is fine, as soon as heated bed is on, extruder on and print in progress, my LCD would flicker and sometimes the printer reboots. POSSIBLE CAUSE: The issue is the 5v step down voltage regulator on the Melzi print control board. When I measured the voltage output of the regulator when not printing it waby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteGatchaman @ gwc2795 Thinking about it I think it would be better if instead of posting all the stuff I typed in my previous posts about problems and answers just post a link to it from your very first post #1 but with a short summery of the issue. Would still be helpful if the final post of the issue with conclusion was in. Issue: Possible cause: Possible fix / solution: Personally afterby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotegwc2795 QuoteBobyni you wanna check this out!! Bonyni can I post this link on the google drive for the P802M? This one is not mine! So I really don't know. But would like to think it is an open source , right!by Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
Happy new year!by Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
you wanna check this out!!by Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
Thank GWC2795!! I will give it another try! I think m@rkus wants the firmware be RAR file. compressed file...:-)by Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
Yeah, same way here. Still fighting with the sensor. Using your method I can not get the sensor to work. Sensor is triggered but the signal is not taken and hot end would sink into the bed! :-( Tried both endsrop_ ZMINpullup true / false same result Inverting true/false same result Connecting all three S-+ or S alone the sme Did you had to change something else in config.h? Pun.h? Really at cedby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotegwc2795 QuoteBobyni and what is your output voltage between the S and ground? I just did on the bread board and it gives me 0.694V when not triggered and when triggered with metal, 0V Mine is a normally closed sensor that gives off 4.84V when the sensor is not near metal, it sinks the the Z-min pin to 0.7V through the 680 ohm resistor when it is near metal. Only 1 lead is attached to the Z-mby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
and what is your output voltage between the S and ground? I just did on the bread board and it gives me 0.694V when not triggered and when triggered with metal, 0Vby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotegwc2795 QuoteBobyni Quotegwc2795 QuoteRobkadett oh i googled now i know, my P802M is not have auto leveling (sensor.) but for a while, i can upgrade my printer with auto leveling. I think it can be work if i make senzor wire to end stop switch. and after that i have just upgrade my firmware ? I have installed Inductive sensoers on 3 of my P802M printers. The sensors are working as Z endstoby Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
for the Z motors they are going to the same connector. if you have the v 2.0 and you have the screw type connectors, then just insert the cables of the two steppers all together. you could twist them to fit in the connector. Mine is the "NEW" Melzi V3b that has separate MALE connectors and all motors came wit their female connectors, so it was just plug and play.by Bobyni - Prusa i3 and variants
Ich habe das gleiche Drucker. wenn Sie möchten, um mit dem ABL-Upgrade Hier ist mein Entwurf, den induktiven Sensor zu halten. www.thingiverse.com/thing:1162996by Bobyni - Allgemeines
I have the same printer. if you would like to upgrade with the ABL here is my design to hold the inductive sensor. Cheersby Bobyni - Allgemeines