Quoteboredom.is.me There is one benefit. As the print height increases on a printer, so does the mass on the bed. A normal printer has to move that mass while a core xy does not. A normal printer will technically deteriorate as the print gets longer. A non-bed-slinger doesn't move the mass in any axis but 'Z'. I guess I should better define my terms. To me a "regular" Cartesian is one whereby dlc60 - CoreXY Machines
Quotemalio77 I have a 3d printer with e3d chimera 2 in 2 and two extruder.I have a problem about extruder when i print my 3d printer.printer not change tool also wait and stop it is not love What is the tool change script What is your printer software? You have to configure the project to switch tools properly. You don't get a lot of options with CURA, but you can do a lot with a tool-changeby dlc60 - Printing
Basically then, it is a Cartesian version of a Delta printer because you don't have to move the X stepper around, which should make it faster, as long as your belts are "stiff" enough to avoid flexing or vibrating too much? And they look cool. But with their elaborate belt system, aren't they a bit touchy to "tune"? Beyond the weight of the end effector possibly allowing higher speeds, is therby dlc60 - CoreXY Machines
I doubt that will solve the problem really. The RPi 3B is plenty fast enough, and I run Class 10 micro-SD cards in mine,so that is as good as it can get. I think it is some kind of threading issue myself. Anyone that has done VCOM serial port work on a PC knows that the OS can mess you over with a context switch at just the wrong time... It might be interesting to find out though! DLCby dlc60 - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
I have seen folks write about CoreXY machines for over a year now and passing over them. So, curiosity has finally gotten the better of me. I have a 270x260x270 mm Cartesian printer made from 1" aluminum t-slot that is a "traditional" X/Y with Z plane moving bed (The full 300mm extents are not reachable). Why is CoreXY special? All those long belts at weird angles gives me the shivers with respby dlc60 - CoreXY Machines
QuoteDocRaptor After some calibration I got it working. The prints, well let us say they aren't the best, but I can work with them. I started to print some mounts for 8mm aluminum tube profiles. These parts will mount to the axis mounts to reinforce the printer. I upload this part. Also I upload some of the files of new parts for version 2 of the printer. This includes: Axis mounts with integrateby dlc60 - CoreXY Machines
QuoteRoberts_Clif I have noted a distinctive difference between the SD card Print and the OctoLapse Print textures. Noted: in the Photos above the model on right was printed with the SD Card While Model on the left within OctoPrint's Octolapse. You will note a distinct texture difference. Will print another model using same ABS filament with SD card to verify if smoothness returns. I have beeby dlc60 - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
QuotePDBeal From what I’ve read, the problems with Cura 4.0+ are related to your machine definitions not specifying max feed rates. The latest Cura just assumes the speed of light for some stupid reason and 8-bit boards seem to get confused with it. This is what I understand causes the machines to pause for a short time to figure out what to do before continuing. You can see this if you downloadby dlc60 - Printing
QuoteVDX ... could be, this is a "systematic" behaviour - and points into direction of a "race-condition", ending either in a "final collapse" ... or into developing of superior molecular (and biological/genetic) technologies THAT'S the spirit! Humanity always does its best when it is stressed to the breaking point. When we've finally F'd the planet up enough that the really stupid people canby dlc60 - green talk
QuoteVDX ... yes, it's hard to realize -- but shows our actual "overdrive"-mode Yes, a cultural case of "irrational exuberance" about our lifestyles. Maybe it isn't cultural, since every culture that comes into contact with it, succumbs to it. Humanity basically must be brain damaged. I include myself in this diagnosis... DLCby dlc60 - green talk
QuoteVDX ... this is a "must see" for energy relations: This is a masterful and sobering look at reality from a displaced point of view. I have not fully digested it. DLCby dlc60 - green talk
QuoteVDX ... with the sheer amount of plastic polluting the environment (and developing/distributing into "micro-plastic" particles) -- one of my core ideas is not to recycle plastic mainly (only small quantities for actual reuse), but convert it into "coal chunks" for use in building materials and for "landfill" (see the building/generating of floating or stationary mega-structures in the projeby dlc60 - green talk
Quotedvanommen Hi all, I'm swapping out the extruder on an FLSun i3 plus to a geared extruder. I'm having a problem with uploading new firmware - I'm using marlin 1.1.9 and flashing to an MKS Gen L V1.0 board. When I upload the firmware, the new steps per mm value I entered for the extruder doesn't get logged on the board. Other things will change (I changed the name of the printer, and the new nby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quotedlw Changed to .4 nozzle because many of the attached are needed. Tried layer heights from .16 to .6. No luck. The printer tries to print layer 1 again and again. Z axis does not move. Firstly. I am surprised that the slicer didn't barf, what version are you using? You should be reading the "tooltips" that CURA gives when you hover over an entry. You have a .4mm nozzle, one standard "linby dlc60 - Printing
Quotedlw OK, back on line. Same problem. How to change feed rate in Cura 4? Also, what in the attached setting is causing a 5 hour print? Lesson one: THINGS GO REALLY SLOW WHEN YOU USE A TINY NOZZLE AND/OR TINY LAYER HEIGHT. So - unless your using terms that do not match how we use those terms: You are using settings that would do credit to an SLA printer - This is an FFF printer, it is not reasby dlc60 - Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist Wow. I wonder what sequence of mistakes led to the design choice to use 24V for some of the critical stuff and not the whole thing... It's one thing to use a buck converter to run some LEDs, quite another to try to run the controller board. If the 12V drops when the hot-end heater is turned on, the buck converter is under spec'd. You need one that can supply more currby dlc60 - Printing
Quoteaflactheastronaut It worked! With an extrusion multiplier of 150% on the first layer, it turned! And then it kept turning, even when it had moved onto higher layers! It must be a minimum extruder steps/G1 command or something. I've never run into it before, but now I know what to expect. Thanks guys for helping! May your lines be straight and your nozzles never clog, Aflactheastronaut I tby dlc60 - Printing
Quotehercek @ldc60: 20° between diagonal rod and the heat bed when the effector is furthest from the corresponding tower. Only these rules come to my mind when deciding effector (platform) radius: The bigger it is the more horizontal space is wasted. Bigger platform allows bigger diagonal rod separation which minimizes bad consequences of the errors in diagonal rod length and ball joint positionby dlc60 - Delta Machines
Quoteken88 Worked it out now. It was the Utimaker Cura 4.0.0 slicer software I done the same part with Crealty 1.2.1 slicer and it ran start to finish. So I will try and reinstall Cura and try it again. Try the 4.1 CURA release and see how that goes. 4.0 gave me nothing but headaches and I dropped back to 3.6. I have not had the time to try 4.1 yet and I am hoping that this release corrects thby dlc60 - Printing
Quoteaflactheastronaut I temporarily raised the nozzle offset just to check that. The nozzle was 2mm away from the bed, but it still wasn't extruding plastic. The motor was still twitching too Sounds like a nozzle jam. You can try to clear it with a "cold pull". Heat your head up to a value like 150C, push the filament in with your hand and pull it back out. This tends to grab gunk and pull itby dlc60 - Printing
QuoteRoberts_Clif Hi All Asking for some help. I recently purchased an Arduino Mega 2560 R3 with Ramps 1.6 and A4988 drivers. When It arrived I flashed the firmware and test the Controller and Ramps board with the A4988, all worked. When I installed it into my CNC I forgot and powered it on with 24V supply thru the Ramps controller with out removing D1 diode. To say hte lease I fried the onboarby dlc60 - Controllers
Quotehercek QuoteOhmarinus Is there some kind of fixed length that the diagonal arms need to have? Rule of thumb is that a diagonal rod should have angle of 20° or slightly more when the hotend is most far away from a tower. Don't bother with it. It is not a big deal. Consequences of longer arms are: numerical calibration will be slightly less stable (it will have harder time to converge to the pby dlc60 - Delta Machines
I have to admit, I do not have a Smoothieware system so I do not know what kind of tuning is required. If you go to the main forums page and go _way_ down the list, under Electronics you will find a "Smoothie" forum that will help you out perhaps more than we are here. That group may better understand the problem since they are way more familiar with the firmware. The creators of the boards anby dlc60 - Printing
Oops. Sorry,I forgot you were using Smoothieware. There will be configuration settings somewhere that will allow you to do that tuning, but I don’t know them. Those are still things to check though. As someone else mentioned,!if your part fan is too aggressive then you can cool the nozzle too much. However that usually causes a thermal runaway error. Is your Bowden tube too long or too tight forby dlc60 - Printing
There are lots of things to look at here. If you have a PSU that is at least 240 watts you have enough power. If you have less then a 12V/20A supply, you need to upgrade. If however you are measuring the voltage applied to the hot end heater, you are fine. That voltage is "PWM'd", so 10V measured there means the heater is almost always on. Popping the Bowden tube on the extruder means that eiby dlc60 - Printing
I'll throw in my 2 cents here. The corner brackets don't do much good. I have a 300mm bet Cartesian that is a scratch design by an ME friend of mine. It shook like the devil when I tried to crank the speed up (those direct drive heads WEIGH A TON). I added corner plates everywhere I could reach. It helped a little, but I fear actually did little more than make me feel better. I have done quby dlc60 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
You can print very soft filament like Ninaflex, shore hardness 82-85. It is very soft, but not silicone soft, and you need a direct-drive extruder and SLOW print rates. As someone mentioned, CURA has a "mold" setting where it will take the model and invert it to a mold that you can cast silicone in. That latter is a cheap experiment. DLCby dlc60 - Printing
Quotedlc60 Quotethe_digital_dentist IRIC, most slicers drop prints at the center of the bed, but Cura defaults to dropping the prints at the origin of the machine/bed. You can get Cura to drop prints on the bed center by using some custom g-code to force it to do so, but it might be easier to just set the printer's origin at the center of the bed- that should work with any slicer without having tby dlc60 - Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist IRIC, most slicers drop prints at the center of the bed, but Cura defaults to dropping the prints at the origin of the machine/bed. You can get Cura to drop prints on the bed center by using some custom g-code to force it to do so, but it might be easier to just set the printer's origin at the center of the bed- that should work with any slicer without having to use any cby dlc60 - Printing
Quotedlw Yes, the nozzle is set to .05. As stated above: The attached was printed with 230, 60, .05 nozzle, speed 50mm, layer height .16. If you have a 0.05mm nozzle then your print speed a way too high and your layer height is WAY too high. You will need to experiment, I would start at 10-20 mm/s with a .05mm nozzle. Your layers will have to be small too - call it 75% of your nozzle diameterby dlc60 - Printing