QuoteRaxius Hi all, I'm designing a delta style printer that takes a lot of design inspiration from the Prusa i3 Mk3. This is the first printer I've built from scratch, so I'm sure there will be several other posts I'll make about it. One of the features I really want to include is the magnetic removable bed. The print surface seems fairly simple, it looks like a 22 ga spring steel plate with .by dlc60 - Reprappers
Nice work. I like to see useful projects like this. DLCby dlc60 - Controllers
Quoteburk Hello! I built my first 3D printer a while ago, a Sintron Kossel Mini. It works OK but now I'm having some trouble with my infill. I've upgraded to Marlin 1.1.9 and I'm using Cura and Pronterface. I'm currently tweaking speed/accel/jerk settings to try to get it to print well. On the part in the image, the outline prints quite well, but the infill looks bad. Any hints on what might beby dlc60 - Delta Machines
QuoteJaguars Hi, yes, lcd on correctly. It flashes up but nothing usable on it. I have contacted tronxy but it appears it is their board and no firmware. Only a .gcode file to run first to get it to run, which is what I am trying to load. What is the best hardware to replace it all with please? I am at the point that just replacing the tronxy board would be the best thing to do. I would apprecby dlc60 - General
PastorHealer, Here are those files that you asked for in the PM for your K200 Marlin build. DLCby dlc60 - Delta Machines
Quoteadrian_rg The other day I was testing the extruder wiring. I pre-heated the extruder using Repetier-Host and the tempertature raised, but very slowly (to reach 190ºC it lasted between 3 and 5 min) and I started to suspect something was wrong. Today I wanted to calibrate the extruder and when I pre-heated it, the tempreture did't raise (Repetier showed a oscilation between 20-21ºC, so the thby dlc60 - General
This is a great discussion folks. I did not know about a few of those repos that have been mentioned! I too have noted that Thingiverse has a LOT of unprintable items or stuff that was started, but left unfinished. However, it also has many good designs there that I have branched designs off of. I had to search for quite a while to _find_ these gems. Lots of the eNable designs are published oby dlc60 - General
QuotePastorHealer Thank you DLC for your comments. I guess I still don't know what to do though. Are you saying I should change to Marlin in order to fix this issue or is it you didn't find a fix? And yes, the auto leveling sensor is pretty cheesy. I haven't gotten to that point yet. I will come up with a better design after I get the top end working. Thanks again I had other problems withby dlc60 - Delta Machines
QuotePastorHealer I just picked up this printer and at the same time, figuring out all the basics of a Delta. I've never used one before. I am very familiar with 3d printing on the regular machines. I'm not afraid to figure things out myself, but I can't find an answer to the very basic question I have right now. When I use Repetier and home the machine, the slides go all the way until theyby dlc60 - Delta Machines
Quotemulski123 Description Im having issues with my printers I built at my university here it germany. Both printer have the same quality issue. Im troubleshooting this since one year now, but couldnt find a solution. I tried it with the help of reddit, Facebook and the german 3D Druck-Community. The Cummunitys gave me tipps Like: speed, acc, turn coasting off and so on. Of course I tried everyby dlc60 - Printing
QuoteTehCookie1 I confirmed the wiring was correct by running the test code. I suspect that there is something wring with the software side. Then why did you say your motors just vibrated and didn't move any axis? Can you give us a detailed account of what your printer is doing and what you expect it to be doing? DLCby dlc60 - General
QuoteTehCookie1 Hi, I have a ramps 1.4 for a diy 3d printer. so far I have everything wired and firmware set up, but I ran into a problem. I couldn't move any axis. they just vibrated a little and stopped. I used the test code to calibrate the current going to the motor according to the wiki, but still the same result. even adjusting the current to the maximum only caused the motor to heat up. Iby dlc60 - General
QuotePippy Yes 3D printer is adding to the plastic problem we have created for the world, but it can also reduce the problem if properly used. We can do this by printing a new plastic part to replace that broken plastic part that would have otherwise meant the entire what-ever-it-is we're fixing would have been trashed if it weren't for our 3D printing a replacement plastic part This is one ofby dlc60 - Printing
QuoteMKSA QuoteAmyTheBun maybe I can replace the shafts and bearings? I heard drylin have to be press-fit or otherwise are too loose. or 3d print pla bearings. even tho they could melt in an enclosure and last time I tried I had no luck. I should add that my shaft doesn't vibrate whatsoever tbh. neither does my bearing. it's just the belt + pulley + y carriage. maybe if I get a/make a lighterby dlc60 - Printing
QuoteOhmarinus QuoteAmyTheBun QuoteOhmarinus You're printing at a very high speed it seems. I don't know. Maybe you're just demanding too much of the machine? Both high speed and low noise? It sounds like a resonance by the way. Haven't heard this from my machine with the same drivers. It's printing at 45mm/s :c removing the belt spring for the bigger motor actually reduced it and all. but nowby dlc60 - Printing
QuoteOcliptor My printer was doing that. Switched bearings and reset it up. Worked fine for 1 print. My issue is that its seems to want to print the same layer a few times. It will do the first few layers fine, then the print goes to shit. If you leave it, it will continue and finish fine. Except it looks like after a few layers it will reprint the same layer a couple of times, then correct itsby dlc60 - Printing
QuoteOhmarinus Quotethe_digital_dentist If it makes you feel better, take an hour or two to gather up plastic waste from the side of a road (there's plenty there) and put it into a recycling bin. That makes your hobby plastic-trash-neutral so you can sleep at night (while your printer is running). Ha, I do this daily. This sunday there's another gathering of people and we're going to clean theby dlc60 - Printing
Well. That just sucked all the air out of the room. Eventually all of our bubbles get burst. Time for a new hobby. I am going to back off on the use of my printers for anything but essentials. DLCby dlc60 - Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist I think it's extremely unwise to get salt anywhere near any metal that may corrode (bearings/nuts/bolts/aluminum frame/circuit board traces/component leads) regardless of whether it helps prints stick to the bed. There are many other, more benign ways to get prints to stick, especially PLA. Putting a thin layer of PEI on the bed works for many materials and doesn't riskby dlc60 - Printing
Quotefumo Hi guys, unfortunately, I could not figure our what was the cause for the blown fuse. I replaced it, and everything seemed to work fine, except that the x-motor is still running hot. So I spent a fan on it and had no further problems until today: The extruder stepper does not move anymore. Changing the driver board (A4988, lower left position in image GT2560) made no difference, so I gby dlc60 - Printing
Quotetmccar I tried printing at 210 degrees but it's still getting blocked. When I have run 240 degrees on hotends that are NOT all-metal, it frequently bungs up the PTFE liner in the heat break, and I replace the heat break, if possible with an all-metal one. This has happened to me with three printers, including my Tevo Tarantula. On the latter I replaced the hot-end with an E3D Chimera dualby dlc60 - Reprappers
Quote3D Printer Dude I actually found documentation at the Marlin site, but not specific to the Anet A8. Also, can someone tell me when I am compiling, I get two errors that show while compiling, but finishes compiling with a done compiling finish. The upload also goes through with no problems. The following is the two strings of text I get. While compiling they show as yellow or amber text, noby dlc60 - General
Quote3D Printer Dude I have an Anet A8 and just flashed my system with Marlin 1.1.9 I booted up system and tried getting used to the difference in the LCD, which mine is the 2004. Upon moving each axis, I found that in one direction I could take it to the limit, but the other way, it would only go so far. Z Axis: would go up as far as I wanted, but down, would only go down about 4" above hotbed aby dlc60 - General
QuoteRoberts_Clif Believe me this was not my first choice either, with bills getting higher and wadges lower it was my only choice, if I wanted a new MPCNC maybe later a better board could be acquired. Even with repairs using the AMS1117-5.0 and then the DC-DC Step Down Buck Converter still much cheaper. An now the inadequacies of this cheaper controller are upgraded forever. Roberts_Clif Actuaby dlc60 - General
QuoteRoberts_Clif Quotetimur In Case of a short circuit due to endstop plugging in wrong direction, does the 3d printer works some time or burns immediately. In my case, the printer worked for few minutes and then I pressed the heat option for bed and nozzle then a few seconds later, it started to smoke and burnt. (I dont know the reason, so I am trying to figure it out) Thanks When I plugged iby dlc60 - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist The belts shouldn't vibrate at all while the mechanism is moving (at least they don't in my printer). I don't really know if 6mm belts would lead to ringing problems due to stretch, but 9mm belts and pulleys don't cost much more and will certainly stretch less. OTOH, 9 mm pulleys and hardware weigh more so now you have to move more mass that can lead to ringing. Thby dlc60 - CoreXY Machines
Are we looking in the correct place? A typical voltage regulator, when seeing a short-circuit situation, will simply "crowbar" and shut down, not burn up. Same-same for thermal shutdown with high, but not shorted, power bus current. A regulator burnout condition is usually because of a bad input voltage, either negative or too high. DLCby dlc60 - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist What does "touchy to tune" mean? I am thinking more about the design path than the maintenance tuning. The belts are really long so I assume that GT2 6mm belts are not optimal. Do you need to worry about damping the belt vibrations? On my traditional Cartesian, I had to align rods and pulleys to keep things square, so that is kind of obvious, but the Core XY looks lby dlc60 - CoreXY Machines