Quotejdebuhr Sounds like with a heated bed and PLA just use Hairspray? or are you just using hairspray for the ABS and more exotic stuff? Thanks I am glad the printer is working well for me now For a heated glass bed, I use hairspray for everything. I have to admit that I have not printed things like nylon since I don't have an environment that is safe for that. I have done most other stuff tby dlc60 - General
Quotejdebuhr After a week of getting pieces and reassembling. I printed 2 objects. Another cube and 3DBenchy. I used painters tape on the bed and it stuck to the objects. I will try glue sticks next Keep your replacement parts for when something goes bad, you do not need to rebuild this hot end at this point. Getting your hot end built correctly is essential. If you were leaking, then you neeby dlc60 - General
If no code changed, then something mechanical or electrical did. Mechanical doesn't seem like the case (unless your Z zero switch has failed) so I would go through wiring. Most likely candidates are the inductive sensor and end-stop wiring. DLCby dlc60 - General
QuoteLMF5000 I have a zonestar z5fm2 running marlin 1.1.8 with a mixing extruder. That is, 2 extruder stepper motors feeding a 2-in 1-out hotend (similar to the E3D cyclops). I'm slicing with simplify3d and I have set up: T0 set to the first extruder; T1 set to the second extruder; T2 set to a virtual extruder consisting of a 50/50 mix of extruder 1 and 2 (made by having this in the start codeby dlc60 - Firmware - Marlin
I am running: Simplify3D 4.1.2 Octoprint 1.3.12 on a Raspberry Pi 3B Marlin 1.1.8 On a custom Cartesian (standard, not Prusa-style). I am printing with an E3D Cyclops dual-filament, single nozzle hot-end using both the priming pillar and the dribble wall. Here is what I see happening in various combinations... I will send a file to the printer via Octopi and it will print the previous version ofby dlc60 - Reprappers
Since you have moved to a new board, the standard "clear the EEPROM" will avail you not. Also, I kind of doubt that this has anything to do with firmware, first layer issues are almost always hardware. Therefore, you probably have a mechanical issue. Look for belts binding, bent rods, hiccups in your lead-screw motions or the two sides of the z-axis mounts not being exactly even with each otherby dlc60 - Printing
Quotejimav76 First of all thank you for replying to my cry for help. To answer your questions Starter 2 is the name of the printer. It was built in California. I paid 500.00 for it in 2014. I bought it off ebay. I did see a post from another person that bought one. I have not been able to find the post or do I remember the name or the forum it was posted on. I am still trying to find that personby dlc60 - Reprappers
I have never heard of a "Starter 2" printer. Is that a "thing" or just what you have gotten used to calling it? Without your prior configuration.h file you issues are legion. See if you can get that, otherwise you will be "guess hacking", counting teeth on stepper sprockets and looking up z-axis screw pitches and stepper settings. You have a "stock" looking MEGA2560 and RAMPS board, so that wiby dlc60 - Reprappers
I gave up on the fancy bed-leveling things for my Deltas. I spent a couple of hours manually adjusting DELTA_RADIUS to "flatten" the bed and then manually leveled it. Now I do not worry about those blasted finicky bed leveling probes or any of the firmware leveling nonsense. My beds are flat, my prints go fine. IMO, DLCby dlc60 - Delta Machines
It isn't the slicer. My guess is that it is mechanical/electrical settings on the controller board. I think that you can tweak slicer settings to get things going though. Try this: Find your print speeds and extruder speeds and slow them down. You may be having issues with the current settings being so low that fast movement cannot be sustained. The Z-axis tends to need more power to operate,by dlc60 - Printing
QuoteTheMacDaddy Strange thing is I was using S3D a couple of years ago with no problems. I packed away my printer and only recently got it back up and running and the problem started. I use both CURA and S3D regularly. S3D prints almost always turn out better than CURA, with one exception, complex parts that need support. In most cases S3D support options are far superior to those in CURA.by dlc60 - Printing
QuoteTheMacDaddy Hi, bit of a strange one. I'm using S3D & Wanhao Di3 v2.1 to print my models, however when the model has finished printing, S3D runs though the end G Code fine but then it starts to print that same model again. My end G Code is as follows : M104 S0 ;extruder heater off M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it) G91 ;relative positioning G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filameby dlc60 - Printing
QuoteDust I suspect 1.1.8 is broken.. you should be using bugfix-1.1.x or bugfix-2.0.x It could be. But I installed it on my Anet A8, my custom Cartesian printer, The HE3D K200 delta and an FLSUN delta with no problems. ONLY this Kossel with a hotend and fan have given me trouble. I have no clue what is going on, so lots of troubleshooting is coming down the road I fear, DLCby dlc60 - Firmware - Marlin
Quotemf76130 Hi, I have a pretty similar problem. Upgraded my Anet A8 from Original to Ramps 1.6 with Marlin 1.8.10. I can read the temperature from the hotend and the bed, and when i set the bed or hotend to heat up, there isn't even voltage on the connectors for them. As a board i set BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB. Even the Fan which is connected to D9 doesn't start. br michael I upgraded my Anet A8by dlc60 - Firmware - Marlin
Quotemgudor While I am guessing this is not the cause, I thought I would offer the following as I had something similar happen to me (printer worked and then after some work on the board and flashing, the end would not heat up). Drove me nuts and took me way longer than I would like to admit to figure out. Turns out my thermostat was broken, so it simply read 0 degrees (not even room temp). Thby dlc60 - Firmware - Marlin
Holy potpie Batman! My worst FUBAR did not go that bad! Wow. DLCby dlc60 - Printing
My smallest may be too big for what you are looking for. My "MicroKossel" project has a build volume of 60mmx60mmx90mm and uses NEMA 14 steppers. It would be a bout 20cm on a side and about 30cm tall made from Maker Beam XL (15x15) T-slot. I mounted it on a hexagonal box to hold the controller, wires and power supply. My design spec required it to print PLA and PETG for tabletop gaming miniatby dlc60 - Reprappers
More information. I have now tried to create a Marlin 1.1.8 Delta on two different delta printers that do not have heated beds, one is a RAMPS 1.4 and the other is a MKS Gen 1.4 controller. In each case, the hot end does not even try to heat. In both cases, I have a super old marlin base that works just fine. I have successfully upgraded an Anet A8, HE3D K200 delta, FLSUN delta (using the Marlinby dlc60 - Firmware - Marlin
I have made this switch from ancient Marlin versions to 1.1.8 on several printers with no problems, but this one isn't working. I have a custom Kossel that uses the RAMPS 1.4 board. It is a hot end and fan only, bed. I used a RAMPS EFF (extruder, fan, fan) setting from the boards.h, there isn't a EF only option for RAMP 1.4 or 1.3. I used the RAMPS 1.3 board def '35' in both the old Marlin andby dlc60 - Firmware - Marlin
QuoteTempest815 Here they are, hopefully they can tell you something. Its just an E3D v6 clone from a few years ago. I know there's some ooze on the hotend nozzle, I'll clear that away next time it heats up. Need any more angles/shots? Your heat sink fan is upside-down. The bottom of the heat sink needs more cooling that the top. Note, your fan cowling orientation. Flip it and see if thatby dlc60 - Printing
Quotecalaban I'm having terrible print quality with PETG. I'm using 3d Solutech PETG. I can get good consistent first layer sticking and anything that is printed in vase mode come out great. The issues arise when you try to print anything with infill is where the trouble starts to appear. I'm having a terrible blobbing issue when the infill starts to print. There are blobs being deposited in pretby dlc60 - Printing
Quotedaniscre8tve Has anyone ever come across this error? My extruder motor just clicks instead of turns. I thought it might be a pressure thing, so I tried to loosen the arm that holds the filament and it still does it. I swapped the motor and which ever motor I connect to it, it does the same thing. Here is a video of it clicking: https://youtu.be/fQhKTD2WKak Any suggestions are welcome! Tby dlc60 - Printing
I too have problems printing in white PLA. My white PETG is decent. I have tried white in the following brands: BamTack eSun Hatchbox A high-end brand whose name escapes me at the moment. In every case, every other PLA color that I tried worked great. The white blobbed, stalled, occasionally jammed, but never made a good print. Another Reprapper I know said "its the white" that causes the probby dlc60 - Printing
What is hilarious about this discussion is that I went to Amazon to get some "unscented Aquanet Super Hold" for my printing. I use hairspray on glass for everything that I don't just use blue tape for. I looked through all of the deals and without exception, the bulk of the comments came from 3D printer folks. I saw only one person comment that was using it for hair spray, and they didn't likeby dlc60 - General
I have had several things cause nozzle clogs: 1) Just plain bad nozzle. E3D is NOT immune to this. I replaced a new $18 E3D .4mm 1.75mm nozzle with a Chinese knock off $1 each nozzle and fixed it. 2) Bad cooling of the heat break. Make sure your air space is not occluded and the shroud is installed so the fan sits at the very bottom of the heatsink. 3) Contaminates in my filament. Yeah, it haby dlc60 - Printing
I built a micro-Kossel delta using Makerbeam XL t-slot using all NEMA 14 steppers, even the Bowden extruder (a modified Itty-bitty-belted design). My print volume is only 50x50x90mm, like I said, a "micro" Kossel design. This picture has a NEMA 17 stepper on a different Bowden extruder that I used in an earlier design. Yours is a bit bigger, but it might still work with the NEMA 14's. The eby dlc60 - Reprappers
*Anecdotal Evidence Disclaimer* I have used a Titan extruder and two other printer folks that I know have used the Titan and the universal response to "would I use one again" is: "NO". The Titan seems to grind up its bearings and has a very short "service life" in our experience. I wouldn't go there. I do not know anything about the Titan Aero or Titan Aqua extruders, they may have learned toby dlc60 - Delta Machines
QuoteNAP1947 OK My rookiness is showing again. What I should have said was "If I change the Z0 or the tower end stops the Z0 is always 0.30mm out" If I do a G1 Z0 the nozzle stops at the bed. If I do a Z0 at any of the 3 towers it is always 0.30 above the bed. It is this 0.3mm I am trying to finesse. Does that make more sense? THAT makes sense. You have a "concave bed" and you need to decrby dlc60 - Delta Machines
QuoteNAP1947 I have rechecked all of the level settings with a square to ensure all the tower to bed angles are 90 degrees. I have adjusted and stiffened the towers so they are all parallel, top and bottom measurements are as follows, X to Y 285mm, Y to Z 285MM, X to Z 283mm. So if I have these correct and my end stops at each tower are adjusted to 276.6mm and my Z height is 276.9mm, how exactlyby dlc60 - Delta Machines
QuoteNAP1947 This process has been a very steep learning process for as my high school math is now almost 60 years old and memory is not what it used to be. Any way we know the X axis runs between the X and Y towers and the Y axis runs on a line perpendicular to the X axis and straight back to the Z tower. As none of these are parallel to the lines between the adjustment screws setting the printeby dlc60 - Delta Machines