QuoteWissing Try cleaning any plastic from in between the teeth of the hobbed bolt on your extruder (or whatever you have gripping the filament to push it down through the extruder). Maybe you tried this, but it's the kind of thing that can slowly get worse over time. Like you said, if you've been printing fine for over a year, then it's probably not a matter of changing settings. Unfortunately,by rflournoy - Printing
Quoterq3 What filament? Hatchbox makes many different filaments. PLA, PETG? In either case, I think your nozzle temperature is very low. I use about 210C for PLA, and 230C for PETG. There's no way your nozzle is at 180F (82C). If it's at 180C (356F) it's still way too low for either of these materials. I've been using PLA. The temps have been working well for over a year. The problem started rby rflournoy - Printing
After several hours of flawless printing the nozzle started blobbing. (See photo) After a short time it clogged and the extruder kept going causing a jam and a tangle around the extruder gear. I changed the filament to a better quality, same result. I changed to another filament, same result. I changed the nozzle and it began to work again with slight blobbing while starting the perimeters.by rflournoy - Printing
Finally fixed it. Thank you for all your assistance.by rflournoy - Reprappers
Quotedc42 Sound like only one phase of the stepper motor is being energised. If it's happening on just one driver, probably due to a bad connection or faulty driver. If it's happening on all drivers, probably a bad power input connection. I finally discovered the issue. The LCD shorted and caused overheating of the board. I kept trying to use the LCD because it still seemed to be working. Aftby rflournoy - Reprappers
Quotedlc60 Well, you've changed everything but the wires, and the power supply. Check to see that you are getting the voltage (12 or 24V) that you should be at your controller board. Low voltage will cause a stepper to be "weak" and may cause your issue. DLC Voltage going into RAMPS is good, 12.1 v, I've unplugged everything and tried running the stepper motors one at a time with new wires.by rflournoy - Reprappers
Quotedlc60 Did you change any wires? Those are the classic symptoms of a miswired stepper. DLC No wires were changed, but I checked the system with new wires just in case. No change. Still stumped.by rflournoy - Reprappers
I had an issue with my extruder recently. The feed tube to the hotend was clogged, so I replaced it. I screwed the new feeder barrel in too deep and hit the extruder gear and heard clicking when powered up. The power was then disconnected and the feeder tube backed out a couple of turns. When I turned the machine back on the extruder wouldn't work so I decided to Home all axes and quite for tby rflournoy - Reprappers
I have a RepRapGuru Prusa i3. Last week I let my hot end get gummed up when our power failed, so I replaced it. Good news, I had an extra. Bad news, I tightened it up against the extruder gear. It clicked several times before I could hit "reset," and then the extruder wouldn't turn. I did all the troubleshooting things you do, and finally decided that the stepper drivers, RAMPS, or Arduino Mby rflournoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Yesterday I changed the nozzle on the hotend as well as the feed tube that screws into the heater block from the extruder. The feed tube was a bit longer than the old one and filament clogged it when the print was complete. I changed it out with another one just like it, but it was getting dark and hard to see clearly. I screwed the feed tube to far into the extruder and hit the gear on the motby rflournoy - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Thanks for the suggestion. Now that I have the hotend cleaned out and all is working as it should, I'll follow your advice and run a couple hundred millimeters through when I need to change. Thanks again, Rickby rflournoy - Printing
Thank you for help. The cold pull worked perfectly. All is well now, and I'm going to explore a departure from the PLA and move on to ABS and others. Thanks again, Rickby rflournoy - Printing
I've had great success with my RepRap Prusa i3, but suddenly nothing sticks to the print bed. I'm using a heated glass bed, cleaning with alcohol between prints, and all was well until I tried to use ABS. That didn't work well, so I switched back to PLA. Suddenly the layers weren't thick enough, the extruder stopped extruding properly, and the nozzle started "blobbing". Soon after this the noby rflournoy - Printing
I've recently built the Prusa i3 from RepRapGuru and it was working fine (with minor hiccups), but decided to change the hotend. The new hotend was not what I anticipated so the original hotend is back on.Unfortunately, I disassembled the hotend/extruder when I initially removed it. My problem was with the reassembly. It seemed pretty straightforward, but now the extruder will take the filamentby rflournoy - Printing
I've recently built the Prusa i3 from RepRapGuru and it was working fine (with minor hiccups), but decided to change the hotend. The new hotend was not what I anticipated so the original hotend is back on. My problem was with the reassembly. It seemed pretty straightforward, but not the extruder will take the filament extrude a little and then the filament reverses direction. The stepper is cby rflournoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Thank you. The hot end was registering the same as the room temp. I had a couple of wires plugged into the wrong pin in that "spider web" of wires. It seems to be working now.by rflournoy - Firmware - Marlin
Thank you. I had a couple of wires plugged into the wrong pin in that "spider web" of wires. It seems to be working now.by rflournoy - Firmware - Marlin
I have a REPRAP Prusa i3 running Marlin firmware. I just changed the extruder/hotend that came with the kit to a Tital Aero. When trying to print, the heatbed begins to warm up, but the hotend never begins to heat. I've made the changes to the firmware as required, but something isn't right. Any ideas?by rflournoy - Firmware - Marlin
I'm about to embark on a journey to build laser cutter. My primary purpose is to cut acrylic up to 10 mm thick. What is the best type of module for this requirement? i.e. wattage output, 450nm or 455nm, color of beam (blue, etc.) and focal attachments, etc.by rflournoy - Laser Cutter Working Group
I was finally able to resolve the communication timeout error but pulling the SD card out of the slot behind the display and printing directly from my computer. Every time I tried to print from the SD there was an error, but since removing the SD there have been no errors.by rflournoy - Prusa i3 and variants