If you are using the regular sgraber wooden frame you can use the vanilla single plate parts ( the original Pruas i3 that uses M8 cross rods). The rear upper rod needs to be at least 320 mm. The rest is the same. You'll need M3 x 25 screws and nuts to attache the frame to the rear supports. A 10-32 x 1" works as well. I sell an sgraber style melamine frame for a Rework. It's easy to cut, soby vegasloki - General Mendel Topics
Quotethejollygrimreaper not really subjective, it's just a case of a simple checklist, eg is all the information they have provided correct? , do they carry counterfeit/produce counterfeit products? ... etc The determination of if the info is accurate or if something is counterfeit is absolutely objective. Take hot ends for example. JHead has become a generic term. Unfortunately he didn't trby vegasloki - General
Please don't threadjack with licensing discussions. Another thread is more appropriate but first study up on the differences between copyrights and patents. Under current law in most of the western world unless you have a patent you have no legal standing the the functional part of the design. Anyone is free to copy it. If you are concerned with copies it's best not to post the source. If it'by vegasloki - General
QuoteMattMoses It seems like we need to have a written policy about commercial links and commercial activity. I do not think we can fix the problem if we are all trying to enforce our own personally defined rules. Here is a first-draft-imaginary-just-for-discussion-purposes attempt at a unified policy: External links to these places are always allowed anywhere: GitHub, Youtube, Youmagine, Thingiby vegasloki - General
Quotethejollygrimreaper the other type is where someone lists a source of a component they used or someone running a web-shop goes through the wiki linking their entire catalog with explicit links everywhere, what happens down the track when a change is made on the webshop that breaks the link or the webshop goes under is that all those links are broken and the webshop owner never actually comesby vegasloki - General
Not to threadjack but what are you using for the software toolchain for the CNC router? I'm using primarily Autocad, Inventor/HSM and VCarvePro (Vcarve because it comes with the Shopbot) but I'm bringing a Shapeoko online and haven'd decided what CAM to use. The project looks good, I'll cut one when I do the Shobot batch in a couple of weeks.by vegasloki - General Mendel Topics
Have you run the core xy kinetics using the V slot yet? I'm curious to see it in action and the mounting of the pulley and tensioner mechanisms.by vegasloki - CoreXY Machines
The issue in accessing the information isn't what the frame type of the machines are being called. Adding an additional layer of names will compound the issue. The issue is in the structure of the information and the consistency of that information. There is plenty of good information there, one just needs to weed through it and determine what it is they need. That's the difficult part for soby vegasloki - General
Quoteldanut Thanks I know this one. How do we combine this with a second fan blowing to nozzle tip and hot end mount? Whats the best software to do this kind of work? Two fans may be problematic due to weight. A hinged mount as on a Rework I think is a better option. See other thread for mount info and pics. If you want to run two fans run the hot end cooling fan from a direct power source. Wby vegasloki - Smart_Rap
All Repraps are a work in progress. Here is a mount for a Rework fan shroud. The shroud is in the Rework Github, the source for the mount attached to this post. There are both an Inventor ipt file and an stl attached. Looking at it it would make more sense to add a mounting point for the fan to the clamp in the dist rather than the bolt on part I have here. Edit: The limit switch mounby vegasloki - Smart_Rap
Misian has an aluhead duct that attaches to the aluhead heat fins like the E3D. IIRC his preceded the E3D design. I got it on Thingiverse a year or so ago. I hooked mine up to a direct power connection so the fan is on all the time. It's the same thing I do now with the E3D. Ive got the stl here if you can't find it. edit: I pushed one over to Github. The gcode probably won't do you anyby vegasloki - Smart_Rap
Melamine will work as well. For those not familiar it's an engineered wood core like MDF but with a laminate on one or two sides. The single side seems to work best as having a raw side down helps with the printer "walking". Here is a piece of 1/4" 2 side black melamine. It's available in white as well and for a Smartrap a 1/2" thick piece would be best. You can get it at most building supplyby vegasloki - Smart_Rap
I printed one and installed a JHead. I haven't mounted it to the X rods yet. It looks to attach to the rods as in the previous versions. It appears the fan mount provision is to the mount points for the groove mount bracket. The hole spacing is the same as on a 40 mm axial fan (IIRC 32 mm) and with a spacer. The bottom of the fan contacts the heat block if not offset from the mount. I thinby vegasloki - Smart_Rap
Quoteldanut I think my design doesn't work with jhead. I only tested with aluhotend. I want to experiment with this for jhead. I think it will just fit. After printing and installing one the fan shroud is a bit too long for a MK V JHead. I cut the bottom of the fan mount off with a bandsaw. The head groove mount fits well which was what the issue was with the part in Serge's dist.by vegasloki - Smart_Rap
Quotethejollygrimreaper all i can find on their wiki is the stl files, no sources that are obvious there, No sources for the STLs doesn't meet the OSHWA guidelines (which aren't a license) but those aren't required under CC. CC dictates use and not deliverables. It's a bummer but it doesn't contradict the terms of the license. There are variants because many devs don't iterate past a revby vegasloki - General
The mount as stock is a bit too small for a real JHead but it does work if you clamp down on it and file or Dremel a bit away to make it work.. It's not opitimal so I modified one but after looking at Idanut's part I'd use that. It's better than the one I did. I opened up the groove mount a couple of mm but Idanut's is a more comprehensive mod. I'll print one out in a little bit. Thanks Idanby vegasloki - Smart_Rap
QuoteTraumflug Now, I'm not aiming for me or anybody else to become RMS II. But I'm pretty sure that accepting developers' natural behaviour as an unchangeable law of nature works just as bad as it did with software development. To get Open Hardware out of the toy status, we need rules. There have to be advantages for those following the rules over them who don't. Big classics of such advantagesby vegasloki - General
Quotejaguarking11 Like I said before, I agree with the OP to a certain degree. We need centralized repos where people can contribute. The problem is that those repos need to contain everything from software to hardware design and specs, to mechanical designs and specs. With rights for any user to fork off those main repos. This way we can have a stream of development being done while still benefby vegasloki - General
It sounds like the FTDI chip on the Melzi has been soft bricked by the latest FDTI drivers. That could explain why the vendor didn't want you to update it. FDTI released the 2.12.0 driver to purposely soft brick counterfeit/clone FDTI chips. The driver sets the PID to 0 which soft bricks it. There is a pretty big uproar in the electronics community about it, so much so FDTI has backtracked anby vegasloki - General Mendel Topics
A counterfeit product is one that clams to be something it isn't. This would specifically include Arduino boards that use the Arduino trademark, logos, etc with the intent being the user thinks it's an Arduino product. A clone or open source derivative like an iduino or Funduino is made from the open source parts of the design as is the concept of open source. It's not counterfeit just anotherby vegasloki - General
Soften the traps with a hair dryer or heat gun. Make sure you don't damage the parts by leaving them exposed too long. One way to use heat is to incorporate the screw through the nut as noted above and use the screw to push or pull the part into the trap. Once the nut is in the trap, wait a few seconds for it to cool then unscrew the screw. You could also try heating the nut with a hair dryerby vegasloki - General
Quotearthurwolf Hey. We did that ! We totally did ! Look at the code, look at the wiki, look at what people say about it, try it yourself ! We have a modular code structure, simple configuration without recompilation, usb composite/ethernet, contributor-friendly code, and lots and lots of of better math/accel/look-ahead/step generation. What do -you- want us to have ? I'm speaking specificalby vegasloki - General
On the Smartraps I've been building I've been using lower cost Wantai 42BYGHW609 motors. They are a good value and I use them to keep costs low on entry level printers though I've used them on larger machines in the past. These days on the larger machines I use Kysan 1124090. (I also used those on the prototype Smartrap but went for a lower cost motor in the end). They are a bit more robust, moby vegasloki - Smart_Rap
Quotequillford Can you link it? The only one I found is a GitHub client Octoprint Google Plus Octodroid Google Plusby vegasloki - General
The single plate AL i3 frame works with the Rework. The Rework uses some different printed parts and thicker cross rods but the AL plate is the same. There are vendors in Spain that sell AL frames as well as Jo Prusa in Europe.by vegasloki - General Mendel Topics
There is a Google + group but the software is in the Play store. He also posts updates to the Octoprint Google + group.by vegasloki - General
Quotequillford I currently use OctoPrint, but was wondering if there is something else that I can try. It works well on desktop, but on my iPad and phone it is somewhat unresponsive. I already know about Print to peer and Astroprint, but they are not out yet. Mobile development for open Octoprint like apps is taking place on Android where the environment isn't as locked down and more open sourceby vegasloki - General
That's not a JHead MK V. This link is to a real JHead MK V There is a brass fitting on the end of the Sainsmart that will be problematic with a Rework extruder. It looks like that's the guide fitting for a Bowden extruder and the stock Rework uses a modified geared Wade's extruder. If you can remove the brass fitting you might be able to get it to mount in the Rework extruder depending thby vegasloki - General Mendel Topics
Octoprint with a Raspicam and you are good to go. You can also control the printer remotely as well.by vegasloki - General
It looks like an acrylic version of a Graber. Files hereby vegasloki - General