For the motor wiring use a multi-meter to check which wires are the pairs as per: Steveby SteveRoy - General
Did you set the thermister type to 0 in Marlin? #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 0 Steveby SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics
What are you using to slice the models? In Cura have you unchecked "Machine" -> "Machine Settings" -> "Heated Bed" In Slic3r "Filament Settings" -> "Bed" set to 0 Steveby SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics
Are you positive it's a 1.75 nozzle and/or extruder and not a 3mm? Steveby SteveRoy - Printing
QuoteLordNightwinter What I'm getting at is that the belt isn't long enough. I can't loop it back. You should have enough length if you loop them through the slot in the bottom of the Y mountby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteLordNightwinter Alright so I have the top belt on now, I turn my unit over and I find this. In the instructions it says the belts just lay in there without any securing. Not sure how to proceed from here. Suggestions? I would loop them back on themselves and use small zip ties to hold then. Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotecharliebe QuoteOhmarinus Gordon is correct. The correct position for your Y-endstop is at the back. X-endstop at the left. Z-endstop on the bottom. Good luck! Look at the attach picture from wiki Prusa I3 rework, x-endstop on the right, y-endstop on the front. I'm gonna try again tonight or tomorrow and let you know If you have the Y endstop at the front then it's a MAX endstop, your fby SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics
Quoteespeicher Alright so Ive made some progress on the machine. I can currently move the Z axis up and down, the extruder heats and the bed heats. Also when I run the M119 is shows all end stops opened. So I'm down to figuring out the x axis and y axis. I have moved the wires from x and y to the z spot and the motors work so I know they are not bad. When I try to move the x axis it just locks upby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
Try a 470 ohm resistor as per the picture - but not a 100k as in the picture. I bought 2 off Aliexpress that just had the blue screen, the vendor told me to add a 100k resistor, but I found 470 ohm the correct value Steveby SteveRoy - General
Another happy customer! Very well made quality board, not heat from the MOSFETs when powering up the heatbed. Thanks!by SteveRoy - RAMPS Electronics
Quotejal741 I bought the printer as a kit, and the extruder has a fan and a heat-sink, so I would assume that cooling is adequate but cannot be 100% certain. Here is a video demonstrating the issue: Not sure what controller board it uses but did you check the vref voltages/adjust the pots on the stepper drivers? Are the drivers overheating causing missed steps? Steveby SteveRoy - Printing
Quotejal741 I also have this happening with my newly-built Geeetech i3B kit. It all works fine for a few layers, and then suddenly the extruder begins to make a clicking sound and pushes filament back out the top instead of pulling it in; the extruder motor seems to change direction mid-print. If I fully remove the filament, I can see that the end is slightly enlarged. Cutting off this slightby SteveRoy - Printing
That's the same as I have in my Configuration.h An M119 show everything open when the printer is off the stops, so I'm unsure of why you get triggered max stops. Steveby SteveRoy - Printing
Can you post the end stop settings from your Marlin's configuration.h file Steveby SteveRoy - Printing
In pronterface: an X + should move the carriage to the right a Y + should move the bed toward the front a Z + should move the carriage up If these are wrong then change the connector on the RAMPS (power down first) Once the motors are going in the correct direction: You need to figure out of your switches are normally open/NO or normally closed/NC Use a multimeter to check. If they are NO then iby SteveRoy - Printing
When first turned on the printer doesn't know where the head is - so you need to home it. However the slicer software will (should) home the printer before it prints so when you start a new print it will home first. X Min is on the left. Y Min is at the back and a Y + will move the bed toward the front. Z Min is at the bottom. I like using all Min positions for the end stops as my RAMPS is mby SteveRoy - Reprappers
I would check the motor wiring to make sure the pairs are correct: Run an M119 to see the status of the end stops. Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
So if you click a switch with your hand and hold it closed and run the M119 again it should show "open" Change to this in your Marlin X_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true Y_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true Z_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = true compile/upload and try again Steveby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
X_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = false Y_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = false Z_ENDSTOPS_INVERTING = false this means your end stop switches are normally closed and when they are hit the contacts open - so check this with a multimeter // ENDSTOP SETTINGS: // Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN #define X_HOME_DIR -1 #define Y_HOME_DIR -1 #define Z_HOME_DIR -1 This means your X end stop is on the lby SteveRoy - Prusa i3 and variants
I would check the coil wiring pairs as per the wiki: The coil pairs should be next to each other on the plug. The wiring diagram on eBay suggest they aren't. You may need to swap the 2 center wires on the plug that goes to the RAMPS Steveby SteveRoy - Reprappers
With a Prusa i3 the Z end stop will be on the bottom and set as a MIN endstop. When you home the z axis (or do a z -) via either pronterface or repetier, the carriage should move toward the bottom. If it doesn't then either change the: #define INVERT_Z_DIR from true to false or vice versa - or change the z axis plugs around on your RAMPS board. Also make sure you have the end stop wires jumperedby SteveRoy - Reprappers
What is the DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE set at? try these values #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 2, 25} Steve Quotesupernielsen I hope i can steal this topic for a bit.. We have a problem with our z-axis on our prusa i3 hebhestos, the problems is that the z axis will make a loud grinding noise.. I can fine control the printer in pronterface and then there is no problem with anyby SteveRoy - Reprappers
Quotewidespreaddeadhead This is going to sound weird but my i3 won't move in RH until I home all the axis'. Try that, might work, might not. That's because it doesn't know how far it can move until it knows where home position is. Steveby SteveRoy - Reprappers
I would make sure the wiring is correct for the 2 motor pairs as per: if they are correct check the vref volts on the stepper drivers and adjust if needed Steveby SteveRoy - Reprappers
So it doesn't reach the endstop? Are you trying to home the Z axis or move it down via the manual controls? Steveby SteveRoy - Reprappers
Your X and Y stops should be set as MAX end stops in Marlin and plugged into the MAX pins on the RAMPS Steveby SteveRoy - Reprappers
When printing via USB a poor quality USB cable, electrical noise etc can cause the printer board to reset and therefore stop the print. If you add an LCD controller with SD card you can slice the file on your PC then copy it to the SD card and print without having a PC connected. Steveby SteveRoy - General Mendel Topics
They will ususally go in only one direction if you haven't "homed" them to their endstops. Are your endstops setup and configured properly? Steveby SteveRoy - Reprappers
I've found the infrared type work OK on the heat bed, but terrible on the hot-end for some reason. The heat bed will show 50 when pronterface thinks it's 50, but the hot-end will show around 45 when it's melting PLA. To see in an infrared thermometer is reading higher temps try it on an iron - that should be around 220C Steveby SteveRoy - Printing
Quotem3gtr ok, my motors have four wires to the plug on the board (printrboard) in order.... blue/red/green/black. They can't be turned on the board due to the plug design, but I guess I could remove the pins and re-order them. Presumably I swap to be green/red/blue/black? You can also invert the direction in Marlin: #define INVERT_Y_DIR or #define INVERT_X_DIR Steveby SteveRoy - Reprappers