So this weekend I worked on reducing ghosting that I mentioned in the previous post. Hard to see in those photos but there is certainly some inbetween the toes and on the back near the wings. Ghosting is one of those things that won't show up on some models or many just don't care about because you are going to finish it some way. So up to you if you want to fix it. Here's what I found. Theby gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteo_lampe Are you sure, you have your belt tension right? You can try to print it very slow or reduce x+y acceleration ( say from 9000 to 6000mm/s^2 ) , but with the same retract settings. See if that helps. -Olaf Can belts be too tight? I made sure they were nice and tight a few days ago, Y was good, X needed some. Quote What settings would give me less extrusion at the beginning, more atby gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
So I forced the retractions all to the rear to line them up, maybe see them better. Take a look at the new attached pic. It look as if the beginning of the line has a slight blob and the end of the line doesn't get enough. I understand you probably going to get a seam whether you like it or not, but I think I can still reduce it. What settings would give me less extrusion at the beginninby gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesarf2k4 Is that some kind of gcode preview on the 'preview mode' of your picture? What program? Yes. Its Simplfy3d, you can turn on view retractions. You can also do the same thing in Mattercontrol's Layer View. Just have to turn it on. Quote I found the ultimaker troubleshooting guide very useful to find the right parameters. My retract speed is higher ( 60mm/s ) and also longer ( 4by gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
Slowly getting this thing dialed in. Surprisingly it was pretty good with the out of the box settings. Just dialing it in to right temps, strings, zits, correct dimensions etc. Here is an owl at: .2mm layer, 190 temp PLA, .4mm nozzle, on painters tape. Simplfy3d Couple issues still. 1. Small string on ears - possibly adjust retraction settings, maybe slight temp change. 2. Hard to see in phoby gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
there was a good post by Invictus awhile back on the leveling of the sensor Invictus sensor attchementby gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoterumjar86 cheers gator. I know that I sound like a dumb ass at times, just need that little bit of you know mentoring, if you could point me in the right direction just to make sure I have everything setup correctly with me config, for bed size tracking etc. I have a 200 x 200 x 180 print size, or is the print size controlled by the slicing software when organising from stl to gcode? Yes thaby gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoterumjar86 3DST I honestly wouldn't know where to start when putting info in my configuartion.h file, would you be able to help me out? rumjar you shouldn't really have to do anything to get your auto leveling going. Newest firmware should have bed leveling already enabled. Should just replace the G28 line in your gcode start to: G28 G29 ;auto bed level The only reason we were talkinby gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
@3DST Cool, yeah I changed to some similar settings with the regular bed. Differences are I set my travel speed to 9000. Then the BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION has to be different due to the smaller bed length. Think mine is currently 150. Only problem I found was if I wanted to use a larger grid points number like 4 (16 probes) due to an uneven surface I couldn't have the offset be 60. Had to beby gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotecrixias Hello everyone, I'm brand new to 3D printing and only a few hours ago finished my Migbot ultra kit with extended print area and auto levelling and I'm looking for someone who knows what they're doing to help me. I finished building the printer last night and when I turned it on for the first time the lights on the MKS base 1.3 board lit up and the fan turned on as well as the LCD sby gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
My prints are starting to come around but I seem to be having retraction issues. Attached a pic, you should see the the "little divots" line up exactly with the retraction points that are shown in the light blue on the right. Tried different slicers, same problem but different retraction points. --Anybody recommended settings to adjust? Here is what I have tried (no change at all): -Beforeby gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteEpop I call 'too good' when I destroy the part trying to get it off the printbed. You could be a little bit too close or extruding a little too much on your first layer... if you print without a raft etc. and scrape the side of your part with your fingernail and feel a lip/ledge/bump on the last layer it could be either at a glance. But... tape is cheap, if thats the only issue you have ifby gatorNic - General
Thanks Invictus I use your X Y and it got me close, I ended up going G92 X-16 Y135 and that got be dead nutz center.by gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
So in general this is probably a good problem to have, but things are sticking too well to painters tape. Difficult to get print off without peeling the tape up itself. This is even with a razor blade -Any ideas how to make it slightly less adhesive? Find a happy medium? Currently printing at PLA at 180-190, 0 bed temp (26 is room).by gatorNic - General
I think jcabrer is right, something wrong with the filament if its that far off. I just measured mine, it was surprisingly consistent at 1.70mm. Not 1.75, but it it was well below +/-.1. My calipers could be off why its showing 1.70 but that doesn't effect the consistency. I have actually had this for about 3 months too, just now putting it together. Perhaps a bad batch or it wasn't stored pby gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteevetanlm If you are using the filament which send by Leo, then I would like to tell you, i use at the temperature as follow: Nozzle 235 Bed: 80 Layer Height i always use 0.05 to 0.1 I don't use higher then that. as for the shell thickness 1.2 top/bottom fill: 1 I'm using Cura. Woah what? 235 for PLA? I just used the stuff from the kit last night on a couple calibration cubes. 180 on pby gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
Interesting on the autoleveling in the current firmware Y seems way off: // these are the offsets to the probe relative to the extruder tip (Hotend - Probe) #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -20 #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 30 #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -0.8 measured these, X is correct from tip to center of probe Y is half what I measured! I measured 60mm from tipby gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
So I went ahead and uploaded that 1.02 std bed fimware. No problems with that. Made it to printing but the center seems to be off by exactly 10mm in both x and y. Anybody have that issue with the standard size bed?by gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMigMic QuoteMigMic Just a quick question regarding the control knob next to the LCD: should this rotate continuously? Anyone? Mine does, seems to work fineby gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
QuotegatorNic Quotejcabrer Ultimately, the direction that a motor spins is determined in firmware. The Configure.h file contains the settings for this. Just posted this question, but probably should of asked here first. Is there a way to read the current configuration that is loaded on the board? Nevermind just saw Invictus's post several pages back about only being able to back it up and wby gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejcabrer Ultimately, the direction that a motor spins is determined in firmware. The Configure.h file contains the settings for this. Just posted this question, but probably should of asked here first. Is there a way to read the current configuration that is loaded on the board?by gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
I have read a lot of uploading new marlin firmware, but they are all opening a file off disk. I would like to see what is currently loaded on the board. --Is there a way to see the current configuration loaded on the board? I am not really seeing anything in the Arduino IDE, it all just points to opening files off of disk. thanksby gatorNic - Reprappers
Well got the replacement board from Leo. Although I had to bug him a couple times to ship it, once he did it was super fast 3 days via DHL. Testing out things now. --Does anyone know is the Y stepper suppose to run opposite of the other steppers? They are all wired exactly the same, but I notice when testing with RAMPs lcd that the other steppers are running clockwise, Y is counter clockwisby gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
Interesting, maybe some shady buisness going on over at 3dprintersonline.com. Where I bought mine. Several days ago there were 43 reviews, with several new ones being one or two star. Those have since disappeared, along with others. There is only 26 reviews now. I mean there is still a couple 1 stars up there, but 17 review difference is quite a bit.by gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteViper97 Just remember, sometimes modular is better, that way you can just have a spare stepper controller hanging around and not have to buy an entirely new board because it's an all-in-one solution. Yeah I was thinking the same thing.by gatorNic - Controllers
QuoteViper97 You are correct. Cool thanks!by gatorNic - Controllers
Quoteandreaseh Right, so I have a problem - after assembly, I connected the power cable. It worked fine at first, with some small calibrations needed. So I unpowered the printer, because I had to cut some cables a little as well, and did this, but was very careful to put everything back into the same place, following the diagram from the google drive linked here. When I reconnected the power theby gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
agreed 220 too hot for PLAby gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants
Two questions to help me understand: 1. Is there a distinctive list of what's the difference between mks v1.1, mks v1.2 and v1.3? 2. Am I understanding this correctly between these two example boards (forget the mks version difference on them)?: The first board has the driver controller for the steppers integrated so it can run steppers right out of the box? vs This board that has no drivby gatorNic - Controllers
Yeah thanks, the stepper motor screws I couldn't even see they were so small. good info.by gatorNic - Prusa i3 and variants