Hi guys. Just a note for you all... Was using the wrong display type in the U9LIB setup so after fixing it, it's working fine now! Thanks for your help! Donby imwhoim54 - Experimental and Hobby
Hi Again Guys Yet ANOTHER problem! :-) Ok. Got the display working and wired (see attached picture). There is a weird box in the lower right corner that's not supposed to be thee (I think) This is the "Hello World" example file that's provided with the library U8LIB And yes... this is the stock Full Graphics Display that is on my 3D printer (an extra I had actually). Below is the code (shortby imwhoim54 - Experimental and Hobby
Thanks Guys! I've been in computer for about 30 years now... been out a while (was my job now retired) now getting back into it. dc42 has given me the info I need though... Thanks again for your help! Donby imwhoim54 - Experimental and Hobby
Hey All! Not sure if this is the right place to put this but I'll put it here anyway... After finally getting my 3D printer up and running, I am left with a number of the RepRap Full Graphic Display units. While I am build my robot (or 3) I would love to use this display in them. Does anyone know where I can get any information on how to use the display (memory card, controller, beeper) In a prby imwhoim54 - Experimental and Hobby
Thanks again Obewan! I looked in my post processing scripts and saw a G28 X0 in it but no change to the Y axis I have added a G1 Y200 to the post so next time I print it SHOULD go to the proper position (for me anyway) It's going to be a while before I print anything again (waiting for some legit PLA to come in) But I will let you know how it works! Thanks Again! Don W.by imwhoim54 - Firmware - Marlin
Hi Guys... Got just got back from a "medical thing" that left me incapacitated for a day. Still not 100% nut at least I can sit upright for a while! :-) Attached are pictures of my "Spocktipus" (available on ). It measures about 6" in diameter and I'm fairly impressed by the detail my printer put into it even though is used such a high layer height and temperature (the translucent filament makby imwhoim54 - Firmware - Marlin
Hi Again Roxy Ok... I will knock the temp down tomorrow and see what kind of results I get from that! For You and Floyd Both... Thanks for the advice! Don W.by imwhoim54 - Firmware - Marlin
Hi Floyd! Thanks for your response! I will try the .2 layer height as you suggested and see what happens. The 230C I actually got from the paperwork (attached is a copy). From what I have read elsewhere, it is a minimum of 230C because of the transparent quality of the PLA. Read the attached and see if you agree... My layer height for this cube was set to .3 though the paperwork suggests .4by imwhoim54 - Firmware - Marlin
Thanks for your help guys! I finally got the printing working and homing where I want it to! Now that it's printing, having one final issue with the prints. I am using a MakerGeeks Translucent green pla filament that is 1.75mm in diameter and a .4MM nozzle. (because it's the only one I have!) Well, I have Translucent Red PLA and Translucent white PETG as well. It has a .4MM nozzle and I am prby imwhoim54 - Firmware - Marlin
Hi Obewan You are absolutely correct. The "rear" of my bed when facing the front of the printer is where 0,0 is located. That was my initial stumbling block. One I set the "Front" of the printer at the left of the bed, everything starting falling into place. It Seems as though people are finding this unusual though... Since it's my frist printer, not sure which corner is "supposed" to be home.by imwhoim54 - Firmware - Marlin
Thanks again Roxy and Thanks obewan... The one thing that alludes me is how to set the x-y home position print printing is complete. Right now it's square in the middle of the bed Which is fine for leveling but I imagine when making a large print, that could defiantly get in the way... Any takers? :-) Thanks again! Donby imwhoim54 - Firmware - Marlin
Hi Roxy! Thanks SO much for your help! I still don't understand the math behind how it arrives at the points to check, but your information cleared a LOT up in my mind as to how things are adjusted! I made some general entries using your information that got me into the ballpark the slowly changed the values until they wouldn't work any more OR landed on the areas I wanted to test! Now, Have toby imwhoim54 - Firmware - Marlin
Hi Roxy Maybe this is where I'M getting confused? On my printer, The 0 position for the bed (the Y axis) is all the way back where the edge of the bed is over the stepper. The "Front" is where the printers Y axis is fully extended toward the user. I am presuming that the "Front" of the bed is the end of the bed where Y is at it's Min where Y = 0. and the "Back" is where the Y axis is at it's Maby imwhoim54 - Firmware - Marlin
Hi Guys (and girls) Ok. I have an ANET A8 chinese knockoff and after a number of THEIR driver boards being bad, I replaced it with a standard R.A.M.P.S setup and I FINALLY got it printer "printing", The prints are very rough but they are what I told them to do so It's time to get it working withing tolerances... After MUCH finagling, I managed to get the steps per MM down to about a .01 mm accby imwhoim54 - Firmware - Marlin
I love the capabilities of the Raspberry PI as well. Like I said, building a robot here (I HAD to narrow down my options... WAY to scattered) but the only real problem is it's limited types of Inputs.. just won't work for my application... SO... I am using the Raspberry Pi as the main "brain" with Arduinos to handle the various inputs, inputs, process them, and send them to the Pi for over all prby imwhoim54 - General
Thanks James! Will take a look. Been a long time since I've done this kinda of stuff. Hope I can see me way clear to use then! Don W.by imwhoim54 - General
Evening folkes... I have a number of the displays used for the RAMPS 1.4 board lying around and I was thinking about using one in a robot build I am planning. They are the type that have the rotary switch on the front, the SD card reader on the back, the number 12864 silk screened on the front of the board below the display and a stop button next to the knob. Does anyone have a pin out for theby imwhoim54 - General
Hey Paul! Thanks so much for the info! Unfortunately, I won't be able to try it out for a day or two.. it's what you get for being an old disabled fart! LOL Anyway.. Will definitely look into all the different things you brought up and will give you a status when all is done. Quick question though, I have an iPrusa wanna-be with 2 - Z steppers. One is attached to the Z axis driver, the otherby imwhoim54 - Reprappers
Ummm Don't know what to say about this... This is actually probably the most complete print I have gotten off my machine yet... But have NO IDEA what could be causing it to do this... I am thinking that the X Axis is skipping steps Maybe? I figure I can take care of the layering issues after I get the "sliding layers" fixed... Unless someone thinkd they are related somehow... Here are myby imwhoim54 - Reprappers
Ok. I think I may have figured this thing out. You have to use the bolt head on the bottom to adjust the tension. The top one, is simple to give you a peg )of sorts) To release the tension and allow feeding of the new Filament into the hot end. Thanks for your help MechaBits!by imwhoim54 - Reprappers
Hi Folkes I have the typical extruder (AKA Stock) extruder that comes with my Anet A8 iPrusa. I am a little confused about how it works though. Here's how it started... I did see it wasn't extruding properly and when I took the filament out, the side of the filament that was facing the spoked wheel had a gouge in it meaning (I think?) it was not able to push the filament into the nozzle.I took iby imwhoim54 - Reprappers
Hi Bobyni As far as I can tell, the Z_Offset variable is set to 0 Here is a video of what it is doing: Thanks for your help!by imwhoim54 - Reprappers
Thanks for looking at it Floyd. Going to go over the firmware for the zillinth time and see if I can find it. Anyone one else think they might have input? Please? Pretty please? Don W.by imwhoim54 - Reprappers
Excellent SuperMec! Works like a champ! Thanks for your help! Donby imwhoim54 - Prusa i3 and variants
Here is the first bit of gcode. This part prints the first layer then increment the Z axis. The was a cube downloaded from Thingiverse. Thanks for your help! ; generated by Slic3r 1.2.9 on 2016-09-09 at 22:59:25 ; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.50mm ; perimeters extrusion width = 0.85mm ; infill extrusion width = 1.98mm ; solid infill extrusion width = 0.85mm ; top infill extrusion widby imwhoim54 - Reprappers
Hoping someone can help me here... I have a proximity sensor style auto leveling bed on my machine. When it checks how level the bed is, it moves to each spot as defined in the Configuration.h file but the Z position is about halfway up the machine (110mm in my case) . It only actually only drops to the bed once in the middle of the table, then it returns to halfway up the machine and waits. Wby imwhoim54 - Reprappers
I have an Anet A8 iprusa 3D printer. I need to find out what the pinout are for the hotbed. I realize there are different models, mine is black on the bottom, and says Anet on it... Can anyone help?by imwhoim54 - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi guys Some additional information. (I got the Hotend error problem corrected): When I use Repetier to slice a cube, the very first G1 command sent is: G1 Z0.350 F7800.000 Then it goes on to print the rest of the calibration cube in mid air. Obviously this should be 0.0 or 0.1. I tried changing the slicer parameter for the layer height to 0.1- The first G1 Z position code is still G1 Z0.350by imwhoim54 - Printing
Hello Mongrel Shark Thanks for your input! Tried changing the custom G-code and it was still doing the same thing. tried 2 different printing programs (after it was sliced.) to no avail. I have also tried the workaround you suggested.. It doesn't matter if I use the program or the machine to move the Z axis down to where it should be, When I resume the print it pops right back up to the same hby imwhoim54 - Printing
Hello all When I try to print the test cube that came with the machine (I have an Anet A8 Prusa I3) The first layer get extruded about 1/8 inch off the platen. This make for a very wonky cube let me tell you! It looks like someone tried to glue ribbon together to make a cube! (see attached picture) Anyway... have leveled the table so it seems to be as close as I can get it. Anyone have an ideby imwhoim54 - Printing