Hi tc42, thanks for the response. Yes, my printer has a large printbed, I tried with 4 leadscrews because it seemed to be more stable (I hope it really is). I couldn't find any reseller near me which has the Duet board, are you aware of any other model That supports more than 6 motors?by harlandraka - Reprappers
Hi everyone, I'm designing a 3D printer with 4 lead screws for the Z axis. My question is: is there any control board that supports 4 stepper motors for Z axis? I'd like to have 4 stepper motors driven with 4 different A4988/equivalent drivers. I know I could wire 4 parallel motors to one single A4988 driver but I'm afraid it would be too much current to handle for a single driver. So is thereby harlandraka - Reprappers
Hi everyone, I'm trying to set GRBL up for my new DLP printer. This is the output of $$: $0=10 $1=25 $2=0 $3=0 $4=0 $5=0 $6=0 $10=1 $11=0.010 $12=0.002 $13=0 $20=0 $21=0 $22=1 $23=4 $24=25.000 $25=200.000 $26=250 $27=1.000 $30=1000 $31=0 $32=0 $100=250.000 $101=250.000 $102=1600.000 $110=500.000 $111=500.000 $112=500.000 $120=10.000 $121=10.000 $122=10.000 $130=200.000 $131=200.000 $132=200.00by harlandraka - Reprappers
Hi everyone, I don't know if this is the right section, so sorry if it isn't. I'm building a DLP printer. I chose to use GRBL as the arduino controller software. Since it is a DLP printer, I won't have the X and Y axes, also I'll need a couple pins to enable some relay, so is there a way to disable X and Y in GRBL in order to use their pins for other functions accessible with custon GCODE? Thaby harlandraka - Reprappers
Hi, I'd like to use M25 with Marlin. I have this sample: G28 G1 Z2 F1000 G1 X85.504 Y75.571 F7800 G1 X95.504 F7800 M25 ; pause SD print G1 X0 Y0 F7800 In Repetier, this pauses the print correctly and waits for me to go on the printer's LCD and resume the print manually. With Marlin the print just stops instead of pausing, so the nozzle moves to X95.504 Y75.571, then the print stops and I cby harlandraka - General
Hi gertonwullink, I followed this tutorial: http://www.dragonflydiy.com/2014/06/nozzle-seasoning.html Basically, you need to add some oil to the filament and push it through the extruder. I actually have put a little bit of oil on my dust remover so that the filament is always a bit oiled and I'm not experiencing a clog since July. Hope it helps!by harlandraka - Reprappers
I've already seen this topic, it's interesting indeed. However I don't have the money to buy 6 monitors and try which one is the best for my purpose, that's why I'm asking, I'd like to see if someone had experiences with UV LEDs as backlight.by harlandraka - General
I'm planning to build a resin 3D printer with LCD instead of a standard projector. I will use a 24 inches 4K LCD screen, but I need to decide which resin to pick. I saw daylight resins, which harden when white light hits it, (the one used by ONO - the smartphone SLA 3d Printer), but I find the color choice very limited. I read that you can replicate the projector's DLP by replacing the LCD bacby harlandraka - General
But as I said I check every gcode produced by the slicer to be sure that the object is correctly extruded. And as I said, even if I release the extruder clamp and push the filament manually, I feel I can't push it and the extruder doesn't extrude it, so the filament is stuck inside the extruder somewhere and won't come out. after a couple layers it unlocks and starts extruding again, but it's notby harlandraka - Reprappers
Ok so: - The biggest temperature gap comes when active cooling goes on. I leave it off for the first layer, it goes on from the second layer: as soon as the fan begins spinning the hot end loses 2-3°C, but they are regained after 5-10 seconds. The print stops around layer 20 for one of my objects, so I suspect this has nothing to do with active cooling as long as the extruder temperature remainby harlandraka - Reprappers
Can you guide me through this step? How do I check?by harlandraka - Reprappers
The extrusion amount is temperature-dependent. If the filament is not hot enaugh it doesn't melt properly and the extruder can't extrude it properly. I already tried 205°C, sometimes it extrudes, sometimes it clogs. And below 205°C it underextrudes and clogs. The thermistor is not the same I had before, the MK9 had its own chinese thermistor, while now I'm using the one that came with the V6 anby harlandraka - Reprappers
I'm using 215°C because at 195-205°C it underextrudes. I used to successfully print at 195°C with my old direct-drive MK9 extruder, it's impossible with my E3D V6.by harlandraka - Reprappers
The filament is a couple months old, it worked perfectly before switching to v6. And yes, it does the same with a brand new filament from other brands.by harlandraka - Reprappers
Hi bob632, I have active cooling enabled. It goes from 35% to 60% fan speed. I have the hotend fan on at 100% all the time (the one on the cooler block) The print are fine, I check every single gcode that the slicer makes in order to avoid getting bad prints. I tried disabling retraction, the problem seemed to go away but it clogged again. It seems that the pla hardens just before the nozzle,by harlandraka - Reprappers
After various issues with my E3D v6 I got some replacement parts from E3D. Now it clogs and unclogs randomly, I really don't know what is happening here. At some height the extruder stops extruding and the motor starts clipping, after 1-2 layers it starts again extruding fine. You can see the result in the attached photo. I'm printing PLA at 215°C, 1mm retraction at 30mm/s, with 30mm/s regularby harlandraka - Reprappers
Hi PDBeal. I can confirm that the bed is flat. I'm using the same bed since an year, I never had this issue. The issue came after switching to Marlin firmware and E3D V6. Before the change I had Repetier with a direct drive MK9 extruder. But I really don't know what could cause the issueby harlandraka - Reprappers
I have an E3D v6 1.75mm bowden. When I print, there is a gap between infill lines, and also when printing rectilinear/hexagonal infill lines seem to be pretty slim. I'm attaching some pictures to show the issue. My settings: Slicer: Slic3r Nozzle size: 0.4mm Print speed: 30mm/s First layer print speed: 15mm/s Travel speed: 90mm/s Retraction length: 0.8mm Retraction speed: 40mm/s Extrude ratio:by harlandraka - Reprappers
Hi obewan, so a plain relay will not work, I'll get a SSR relay, which is made which has no mechanical parts. DC SSR Relays are based on MOSFETs, so I'll buy one of them instead of doing the circuit myself. Thank you!by harlandraka - Firmware - Marlin
Hi Dust, I think I wasn't able to explain nicely the issue. The issue is with the hotend. The heated bed behaves correctly, it gets powered on and off as expected without making noise. The hotend gets powered on and off several times per second, and the relay will be noisy. So the issue is with the hotend being powered on and off too much frequently, is there a way to avoid this? BTW I justby harlandraka - Firmware - Marlin
Hi everyone! I have a RAMPS 1.4 board. Today I connected all the wires, including the ones for heated bed and extruder, providing double power supply to the RAMPS shield. I started a print, everything works fine but this morning I saw a little bit of smoke on the board while heating, so I decided to disconnect the heated bed and extruder and move them away with a dedicated relay connected direcby harlandraka - Firmware - Marlin
Hi. For some reason the forum didn't notify me of your answer :/ Anyway I think I found the correct way to do it, I'm posting it there for those who might need it. Go to line 1220 in Configuration.h. Here you'll find //#define REVERSE_ENCODER_DIRECTION Uncomment the line: #define REVERSE_ENCODER_DIRECTION Done.by harlandraka - Reprappers
Hi everyone, I'm having an issue with the display potentiometer with Marlin 1.1.0-1 firmware with RAMPS 1.4. If I turn it counter-clockwise, it goes down on menu voices, if I turn it clockwise it goes up on menu voices. If I turn it counter-clockwise in the X/Y/Z motion the corresponding value increases, if I turn it clockwise the value decreases. As you can see, the behaviour is inverted. Tby harlandraka - Reprappers
Hi all. I have a RAMPS 1.4 shield, and I connected all the hardware to it, and I uploaded Marlin 1.1.0 RC4 on the board. Motors move correctly, but they go in the wrong direction when homing. Let's use the X-axis as an example: The printer is a prusa i3-style printer, and the X-axis motor has an endstop on the left side. If I use the menu on the LCD to move the motor on the X axis, it goes froby harlandraka - Reprappers
I found the jumpers, now motors move correctly. Quoteobewan Please dont power it up with the endstops plugged in as show in the picture, you have them conected to +5v and gnd. 2 wire endstop switches should be plugged into the 2 outer pins, gnd and signal Yeah, I noticed and changed them, but they don't seem to work, when I click the endstop marlin does nothing. If I click it while moving, mby harlandraka - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteDust Blinking X,Y Z on the display just means you have not homed the axis, so it thinks 0 is where ever it was at power on. Most likely (as most people seem to miss this) you have not installed any stepper micro stepping jumpers under to stepper modules They didn't come with the kit. How do they work, and how should I install them? At the moment I only have the RAMPS 1.4 board, with Arduiby harlandraka - RAMPS Electronics
Hi all! I have a Wanhao Duplicator i3 v2 (aka Maker Select/Cocoon Create) and I bought a RAMPS 1.4 kit to upgrade the internal Melzi Board and install Marlin instead of Repetier. I plugged the two power cables coming from the PSU into the RAMPS shield, then I connected the display (a RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller, 128x64 with SD support), the two thermistors (bed and extruder) anby harlandraka - RAMPS Electronics
Hi IMBoring25, thank you for your reply! I think power isn't an issue, as I kept heating both at the same time for months by manually editing GCODE after generation... This never caused issues. Regarding the hotend having to wait the bed to reach the temperature, it's impossible, or at least it doesn't happen on my printer. Heating the bed to 60°C takes 5 seconds less than heating the extruderby harlandraka - Slic3r
Hi all! I'm using Slic3r for my prints, and it does pretty good. I use 225°C hotend temperature and 40°C bed temperature for the first layer, and when I export the gcode it shows like this: ; generated by Slic3r 1.2.9 on 2017-01-08 at 13:57:54 ; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.30mm ; perimeters extrusion width = 0.30mm ; infill extrusion width = 0.30mm ; solid infill extrusion widthby harlandraka - Slic3r