I'm sure this is a perfect example of missed steps. I've run through the regular issues that cause this but everything seems to be ok. This doesnt happen every print but when it does it messes up exactly the same every time. Off to the left side 1/32" (using 1/32" stepper drivers). It's definately on the X axis. Extruder is calibrated and as you can see prints very well (no blobs, etc) Motorsby krwynn - Reprappers
QuoteDriftyDave I have a quick question I'm hoping someone knows the answer too. When a print finishes on my printer the x carriage homes, then the z homes, then y homes. For a tall print the head can crash into the print with this procedure. Does anyone know how to make the z axis home last so the head drops into the home position last instead of the x axis hitting printed pieces as y homes? Trby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
huge, HUGE improvement over backlash and z wobble (if you have it) with these items. Z Axis Anti wobble for Prusa I3 8x Leveling and Extruder Springs for Reprap Prusa Mendel 3D Printer i2 i3 16 Pcs Solid Brass M5 5mm Dia Thread Hex Head Screw Nuts I cut one spring into 3 even sections and used the top and bottom for each thing. I also cut and filed the nut holder off both x idler and x motor pby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Holy smokes. Thanks for this. Bed heats up in half the time. Went from 8 minutes to 4. QuoteDriftyDave I am getting much more accurate temps using 1 as a value for bed thermistor.by krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Hotend needs to be on. Won't extract cold. QuoteCyBer Hey everyone, I am currently assembling a folger tech prusa kit and when I tried to manually extrude 50 cm of plastic to test the extruder, the motor seems to pull the filament in a little and then pull it out a little and it never grabs purchase of the filament or extrudes any. I was wondering if anyone knows how to fix this?by krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
lol, if you look back through this thread you'll see that a few of thus deducted that the right rear would be the logical place to put it with Rev B since the directions still were refering to the right front and using the bearing housing to hit the endstop. QuoteEcky Check out the FAQ at Folger which says: QuoteWhere do I put the y-axis endstop on revision b of the kit? With the current kitby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
try these for the motor mounts Printable Prusa i3 Frame Parts for Laser-cut (6mm) Frames . Make sure to file them to fit before making a dupe out of something else. Here is a dfx file for cutting pieces from another material prusa i3 aluminum frame w/ aluminum upgrades QuoteTardisrepair Thank you for the responses krwynn and dbrewski. I printed one of those extruders, now just waiting on theby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDriftyDave Anyone else notice bed temp issues after updating to the latest Marlin? My bed used to get up to temp pretty quick, with or without corkboard on top. Now it is pitiful, very slowly gets up to 80ish and then stalls and even heads back down a couple degrees. Finally makes it there but is taking much much longer... Is this a setting that may be off? My configuration.h file is moby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteChris Rap I built mine as given in the manual and had to only file the frame a little and i had some shorts in the drivers - but other than that both the software and the manual were fine. Vanbot - you must have configured yours incorrectly and most likely from the details about the endstop placement from the forum. My origin is in the top right corner and that is not a problem. I've not hby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteVanbot the hotend Folger supplies isn't very good. :-) You continually say stuff like this which could give someone the wrong impression. I have had no problems with my hotend, clicking or anything else. My full graphics contoller worked 5 minutes after I followed the guidance (Toms) and has worked flawlessly ever sense.by krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
I've bought 1, actually 2 but haven't hooked them up yet to use. May save them for the next build (have got to stop buying parts, have enough now to build at least 2 more full kits). Have also looked for the ideal setup to use. I have printed out most of the parts for a Wades and to be honest I don't think there would be any more weight than the setup I already have. QuoteTardisrepair Has anyonby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDan_FolgerTech Although I do respond to everyone personally I can vouch for that. You have been extremely timely and helpful with all of my issues, and there have only been a couple, from day 1 and it's greatly appreciated. -Kevin Wynnby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteenzo1027 Just got my set of these in today Poly Linear Bearings, and can't wait to try them out. They are linear bearings that have a frelon (some sort of delrin derivative) lining in them. They are self lubricating and have no moving parts. I'm hoping these should all but eliminate the noise! I'll let you guys know tomorrow how they work! "Note: Not for use with bare aluminum, chrome-plateby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Most/all jams are from the filament getting too hot before it reaches the heat block and jams the tube. Tape keeps the heat on the block and lets the fan cool the filament and the top section of the tube where the filament enters. QuoteVanbot Quotekrwynn QuoteVanbot How do you find that tape helps? Keeps the heat concentrated on the heat end block. Also seems to keep heat from migrating up andby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteVanbot How do you find that tape helps? Keeps the heat concentrated on the heat end block. Also seems to keep heat from migrating up and also keeps the fan from blowing on the heat block.by krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteVanbot The one instant improvement I'd like to make it to the extruder. It's a pain to thread in new filament. Does anyone know of a design that works with the existing hot end to allow easier filament changes? This one is great. Have had zero problems since installing it. Love it actually. Extruder for FolgerTech Prusa i3 (v-groove bearing and flat feeder) Here is mine installed: I alsoby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Make sure to run g28 and then g29 when your bed is up to temp.by krwynn - General
QuoteVanbot How has the customer service been for other people? Dan has been golden as far as dealing with my few issues. A++ in my opinion.by krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Looks like more of an extruding issue. How thick do you have your first layer? If lower than .35 try .35. Have you calibrated your extruder? I know I had to change mine from the folger recommended 90 to 97. Quotepabloevaristo Hello guys, thanks for all the info here and your responses. All are really appreciated. I'm having issues with what I think is the Y movement. As you can see in the imageby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Current version of Marlin 1.0.2 QuoteVanbot Quotekrwynn QuoteVanbot When I operate the extruder with manual control in Repetier, the control for the extruder drive seems to be reversed. It seems the firmware might be assuming I'm using a geared extruder when in fact I'm using a direct drive extruder? Is there a way to reverse it? Seems like something that would be set up in the printer settingby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteVanbot When I operate the extruder with manual control in Repetier, the control for the extruder drive seems to be reversed. It seems the firmware might be assuming I'm using a geared extruder when in fact I'm using a direct drive extruder? Is there a way to reverse it? Seems like something that would be set up in the printer settings in Repetier but there doesn't seem to be any option to doby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
You just saved me a wasted weekend trying to figure out why after installing these drivers and updating Marlin that I couldn't get them to step right. Thank you! -Kevin Quotealan richard My edit button has gone! Donkey that I am, I changed the stepper jumpers and steps/min in Marlin but didn't update the eeprom with the new config settings. That just added to the confusion. aby krwynn - RAMPS Electronics
Hi all, I just upgraded to the DRV8825 on my Ramps 1.4 on a prusa i3 running Marlin. The motors run fine (and very quiet). Move left and right, up and down. Extruder works fine. I have one issue though. They are only moving 1/2 of what the regular steppers did. Meaning 200, 200 is the center of the bed. I changed this in my congfiguration.h file but it doesnt make a difference. #define DEFAULTby krwynn - RAMPS Electronics
QuoteDriftyDave I seem to be printing well now. I think the trick for me was to keep increasing the temp until the clicking stopped. Ended up at 250 but its printing really well. I'm thinking my thermistor is a bit off? @vanbot: Try holding the nut with pliers and heating it up with a lighter and sticking into the frame. Worked for me. On one I had to heat it up twice to get it to melt allby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteEcky Anyone get the Full Graphic Controller and display LCD to work with the Prusa machine? If you did are you willing to share your config...h file and your pins.h file.??? TIA I followed this and it worked first try. 3D printing guides - Setting up a LCD and SD card controller panelby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
I've been pretty much clog (1 clog, my fault), blister and popping free with my filament (I've used MakerGeek, Botfeeder (which is awesome) and Hatchbox ABS so far). And I think I know why, is because I keep the humidity of my filament at around 10%. They say below 30% is good. But this system works like a dream. Items needed: 5 Gal bucket 5-gal. Screw Top Lid Wireless Mini Dehumidifer Wirelessby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks!! QuoteZavashier Oh, sorry, here's the picture The screw on upper left, the ground on bottom right.by krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
I bought these on Amazon. I use these more than any other tool in my bag when it comes to 3D printing lol. Very handy and prefectly sized for 3D printed items. 10pc Diamond Mini Needle File Set Metal Glass Stoneby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteZavashier I can see the pic on both messages. Go to the MakerBase website for further information on cascade axis. Sorry, I was referring to the picture mentioned here showing the ground pin. "Measure betwen the screw (with your red stick) and the ground pin (with your black stick). See picture below and dont pay attention to the wiring, just the screw and ground pin matters." QuoteZavashiby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
It just so happens I've been using Hatchbox myself. I've found 205 to be in the wheelhouse for me. I start at 225 for the first layer then go down to 205. I like it so far. QuoteDriftyDave Seems to be working fairly well at the moment. I still get the occasional click when doing infill. But overall its running nicely. After cleaning the nozzle I was still getting a bunch of clicking. I buby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants