Moving is enough of a hassle without having to paint walls to cover this sort of thing up when it's time to go. Cover the wall with paper if you must have people scrawling graffiti on it. I don't understand kids- graffiti on walls, tattoos that look like bad graffiti in your skin, piercings that make you look like livestock on a farm... Stay the hell off my lawn!by the_digital_dentist - General
Search for Gigabot. My printer, linked below, is 300x300x280by the_digital_dentist - General
This is my printer's frame: It is made from 1.5" 8020. There are no corner brackets or gussets anywhere, just ends butted together and secured by bolts. Though the machine weighs about 60kg, I can transport it laying on its side in my car, stand it up, and start printing without any adjustments. You should not need additional hardware for a machine that is smaller and has lower kinetic enerby the_digital_dentist - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Sometimes you have to give up a few mm of build envelope to make a nonstandard extruder fit. I doubt you can print anywhere near the edge of the build plate anyway, so you aren't really giving up anything. I use a BullDog XL and it has been absolutely reliable for the last 8 months (printing ABS only). I haven't had to clear a single jam from it or the hot-end (E3D v6).by the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
I suggest you invest in a single rod and see how it behaves. A single SS rod won't cost much and will answer all your questions and more.by the_digital_dentist - General
IRIC, I used a mill to bore the holes for the guide rails. The rails fit very precisely- if I didn't hold them completely perpendicular to the bracket I couldn't get them into the holes. The guide rails I was using had tapped holes in the ends. The opposite end bracket had holes to fit countersunk screws so the countersink centered them: Those holes were drilled on the milling machine intoby the_digital_dentist - Extruded Aluminum Frames
I used this for a couple years and it worked well: There are more photos on my website here: I drilled holes to fit the rails on a milling machine (drilled all 4 in single piece of angle stock) then cut slots for the belt. Finally, I sawed the part in half and milled the sawed ends smooth. By drilling on the milling machine you can get the holes placed very accurately so you know the railby the_digital_dentist - Extruded Aluminum Frames
In printer settings>extruder you turn retraction on and off. There is also a setting in print settings> infill where you can set it to retract only when crossing perimeters. I'm not sure how the two settings interact with each other.by the_digital_dentist - Slic3r
That was a good, cheap deal! Looks nice- you could always use it as is- there are a lot of round heaters available.by the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
Try reducing the "resolution" on it- sometimes the STL has more detail than you can print and it causes slic3r to choke. Print Settings > Advanced > Resolution By default, Slic3r does not simplify the input geometry and will render all details into the output G-code for maximum accuracy. However, high-resolution models often carry more resolution than the printer is able to print, so tby the_digital_dentist - Slic3r
You don't really need anything for ABS but a flat, thermally conductive build plate (1/4" cast aluminum tooling plate), a layer of clean kapton tape (I like 5 mil thick tape because it lasts for months), a 3 point leveling system that actually levels the plate instead of flexing it or the undercarriage, a bed heater with sufficient power to get it up to and maintain print temperature (105C), andby the_digital_dentist - General
Try reducing no. of threads to 1. More than one thread copies the entire thing to memory for each thread. For a big model you'll need a LOT of memory.by the_digital_dentist - Slic3r
That really is awful, then.by the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
Dumb question: Did anyone check to see if the X axis rails were inserted into the Z axis parts to the same depth?by the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
How unflat is it?by the_digital_dentist - Slic3r
Frostruders are not intended to be very precise. If you lay down thick enough material it doesn't matter if the surface is flat- it will squish out a little where the nozzle to print surface is smaller and lay down a thicker layer where the distance is greater.by the_digital_dentist - Slic3r
The motors we usually use are called steppers, not servos, which are a different thing completely. Connecting two of the drivers in parallel seems like a bad idea, but I'm not sure it wouldn't work. You're relying on the outputs to switch on/off at exactly the same time. If they don't, motor performance would probably be poor. If you need to drive a higher current motor there are stepper drby the_digital_dentist - General
Kapton tape or PET tape work for ABS on a heated bed and can be pretty inexpensive if you get the thin stuff. No juice, glue, hairspray or other messy stuff required. You can print on a raft on PIR foam with out heat or bed leveling/zeroing.by the_digital_dentist - General
As of this week, OnShape now supports 3D mice under Windows in Chrome and Firefox. You have to DL the latest driver from 3DConnexion to enable it. Now if they can get the 3D mouse working for OnShape in Linux, it will be goodbye Windows forever!by the_digital_dentist - General
I agree, Slic3r is great when it works. I also prefer the results I get from Slic3r, but it misbehaves often enough to keep me from using it full time. The types of problems that signal that slic3r is sick are ignoring changes you make to settings. Once you see that behavior, it won't slice properly- you may get all sorts of weird results. The cure is to delete the preset files and recreate tby the_digital_dentist - Slic3r
Contactless IR thermometers are a poor way to measure temperature of anything but the type of thing they were calibrated against, usually a flat black surface. Everything else will read incorrectly. The temperature of the PS case is always much lower than the temperature of the semiconductor junctions that the fan is intended to protect. If you knew the fan had a bad bearing, then it must haveby the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
If you want to get real fancy, you can calculate the sag in the X and Y axes and apply some extra weight to one or the other so they sag equal amounts and thereby cancel the effect of the sagging. You might want to ensure that the guide rail supports and the bearings on the carriages are equally spaced in both axes, then, with equal masses, they will sag identically. You may need to slow the prby the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
If you are using a mechanical relay, don't use PID control. PID control is a PWM system that switches the thing at about 7 Hz in Marlin. That's why the relay chatters. It won't last long like that and it will drive you nutz until it fails. If you want to use PID (and you should) you should use the on-board MOSFET switch, or if it can't handle your bed heater's current, use an external solid sby the_digital_dentist - Controllers
Did you turn PID temperature control on?by the_digital_dentist - Controllers
The printer is homing then waiting for the temperature to reach the set value of 200C (that's what is in the gcode file). If the temperature doesn't reach 200C, the printer won't move again. Does the temperature ever get to 200C? If not, you have a printer problem that needs to be fixed. Since you're new, I'll offer some advice that may save you a lot of future frustration. 1) Forget Sketchby the_digital_dentist - Slic3r
If the surface you want to print on is flat, and you're not trying to print anything that overhangs the edges of that surface, place the object at the center of the bed and use the z-offset in slic3r to get it to print on top of the object. You'll have to figure out some way to hold the object to the print bed so it can't move while printing, and you may have problems getting ABS to stick to anby the_digital_dentist - Slic3r
I like that set-up! The mirror idea is very good! If you used front surface mirrors you wouldn't get the ghosting from the secondary reflections, but then the mirrors probably wouldn't last long when you're drilling metal at 20k rpm and particles are flying everywhere. Excellent work!by the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
The ideal weight would need to be a little more than the weight of the extruder carriage due to losses in the pulley connecting the weight to the extruder carriage, but be careful. If you unload the X axis guide rails the Z axis screws, normally loaded by gravity, may not behave well and could bind or cause poor print surface quality. Next you'll have to figure out how to use a counterweight onby the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
This is what I want to do with filament to eliminate the possibility of tangling on the spool- get rid of the spool:by the_digital_dentist - Reprappers