Quotejimjimma Sublime, I really like the water wheel damper idea . If you add a weight to opposite Z-cable to balance weight of empty bed, does it solve the problem?by karabas - Tantillus
I never see such specs to switches. How to choose?by karabas - Ormerod
I tried servo with microswitch. Illusion of work. Readings vary within 0.3mm. Nonrepeatable.by karabas - Ormerod
For small parts only. How do you prevent switch striking againt part?? It's need to be lower than nozzle! Yes I think about short acting cooler under ultrasonic sensor but I afraid that wind will influence to the readings.by karabas - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Quotekarabas Will it work with semitransparent bed - sanded glass or antiblink relief glass ? Sorry, I don't know what antiblink relief glass is, and neither does Google. Do you mean can you use light reflected off a particular type of glass, without using white tape? I just tried reflecting off a piece of frosted glass, and the highest reading I could get was about 80. However, Kim reby karabas - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Regarding the IR sensor, I strongly recommend that you go for a modulated one. I expect that RRP will be selling these within a few weeks. I am also considering making a modulated sensor pcb that fits on the hot end, and that integrates the hot end connector and a light to illuminate the work. See . Will it work with semitransparent bed - sanded glass or antiglare relief glass ?by karabas - Ormerod
What does happen at 120C? If I close my printer in a box to prevent side air moving will Z probe repeatable?by karabas - Ormerod
Sorry, I did not fully understand - Is it ready for replication? or need further development?by karabas - Ormerod
Thank you! I will try it.by karabas - Mendel90
I printed I3 Herringbone gears but they are too big for M90 Wades. Where can I find suitable pair? Or what I need to change in i3 config to make it? I tried to change number of teeth but how to calculate corresponding distance? It seems that big gear need to be 39-40 teethby karabas - Mendel90
раз есть рампс то самый простой способ - приделать серву с микриком. В марлине поддержка есть. Разъёмы на рампсе есть. бери любую 5-9грамовую серву которая от 4-5 вольт работает и крепи как захочется. Например так подробно про настройку здесьby karabas - Russia RepRap User Group
What mode do you use to power heated bed? PWM or Bang Bangby karabas - Printing
BTW there are many steppers with already integrated encoder on ebay. Are they suitable?by karabas - General
I modified X-ends in several variants. Seeby karabas - Mendel90
Add weight (up to ~200 gram) to the left X-idler-bracket. It solves all the problems.by karabas - Mendel90
I downloaded repo from 05-feb-2014 X-idler-bracket.stl X-motor-bracket-stl have not place to M6 nut (for Z threaded rod) I tried both STLs from repo and been genereted myself. Openscad shows these parts correctly. So it seems something is broken in command line section of code.by karabas - Mendel90
I search alternative sources of these lead screws but it seems the only online source. Other distribuitors have no online shops on their websites. May I missed something.by karabas - Extruded Aluminum Frames
it seems the problem solved. I rewired electronics and turned on PWM on bed. No more banding. Double check your prints if you use bang bang mode.by karabas - Mendel90
What laser do you use? mUVe3D sells two - 50mw and 150mwby karabas - General
Quoteprobonic I had a very similar problem to you. Here are things to try: - Make sure there are no drafts in the vicinity of the printer - Try putting the clips as close to the edges/corners as you possibly can - Make sure you always have the corrugated cardboard under the bed After doing all these things I got really good prints. It's not enough. See video bang bang When on(click 0:07) - youby karabas - Mendel90
Quotenophead By tracks I mean the zigzag PCB traces that form the heater. Yes heater traces are on bottom as in PDF. Quotenophead You might need to switch from bang bang to PWM and PID to fix it. That needs a more recent version of Marlin than I distribute. I think it's the only way.by karabas - Mendel90
Quotenophead Is it mounted with the tracks on the bottom? Sorry what tracks? Quotenophead Do you have glass the same size as the BOM? 214x202 ( 202 - Y dimension) Quotenophead Do you have the glass and clips positioned and oriented as the model shows? clips as in PDF see pic I tried 3mm glass today(214x214 with diagonally cut corners). The same. I played with loosing bolts and suddenly wasby karabas - Mendel90
When turning on, cold bed Z0 is getting higher approximately 0.1mm in about 10sec. When off - returns to initial height. How to fix?? Idially I need intermediate rigid alu plate between heater and glass but does it help really? My MK2 is not perfectly flat, it is lower in center so there is thin air gap between glass and heater. I wonder what is exactly the cause of height increasing.by karabas - Mendel90
You are right. My bed is powered via relay(it clicks loudly) and I use 2mm antiglare glass. After extruder reassembling efeed became better but after bed switching test it is now clear that you are right. See pic I let it go until about 1.5cm then off the bed manually - low black arrow. After about 5mm high first colomn was becoming loose and I turned bed on balck arrow. No more relay switchingby karabas - Mendel90
Why not to retract servo between probes?by karabas - General
Quotenophead If the bands are closer together at the bottom because the bottom layers are bigger, what causes them to get closer again further up the columns? because I slowed down printing speed with M220 S50 to test what happens. I probably have located the problem - teeth on gears are not equally spaced but gradually shifted back and forth ( printed on bad printer) compared to new gears Iby karabas - Mendel90
QuoteGhivotnoe Хочу каретку с автопозиционированием на мендель 90, сколько стоит в сборке и нет ли нагревателя для hot end ? [email protected] я постил фотки(на робофоруме) как цеплять серву к обычной каретке с помощью кроншейна. или нужна особая конструкция? Нагреватель есть картридж или специальный резистор - на выбор.by karabas - Russia RepRap User Group
It's definitely E problem - lower part is much bigger and bands are much closer (in fact every next layer). Raft also shows E problem - periodiaclly changing width. But. I cannot find the cause. I use standart wade with selfmade hobbed bolt.by karabas - Mendel90
I controlled reel by hand to be sure it's free feeding. And I tried another coil of filament without spool at all. Wades extruder is powerful enough to drive 5-10kg of force. BTW I measured towers (10x10x50) with caliper and got 10.0mm between bands and 10.4mm max width. So changing in efeed is big enough. When printing raft I see it as well.by karabas - Mendel90
New mendel90 had finished. Bushings insteed of bearings. Arduino 2560+ RAMPS 1.4. Last original marlin from marlin repo. M6 threaded rods. Problem - Z banding due to e-feed periodic fluctuation. I tried different filaments and two hotends. Yes it can be bad hobbed bolt BUT period is about 5 turns of hobbed bolt! Upper parts of towers - I halved printing speed with M220 S50 What to try? Short vby karabas - Mendel90