@andreaseh If you are unable to move the X-Axis, and you smelled burning, there are two likely possibilities. The fuse is not one of them, since you say Y and Z axes are still operational. 1. You may have damaged the stepper driver on X. That's the little IC with the adjust screw next to it. If this is the case, there really aren't too many options, other than replacing the board. It would beby jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
If you have a multimeter, check the resistance. For a 12volt supply it should measure about 7 ohms. If the value is higher, blame it on quality control. Make sure connections are solid.by jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Here is some light reading on the topic of thermistors. Keep in mind that my comments above are speculative at this point. I do not know one way or the other if the thermistor is incorrectly identified. I'm only proposing logical causes for the discrepancies that are being encountered. I've been using and building Repraps for 5+ years and though I cannot say that I have seen it all, I have seeby jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Given the lack of quality control, it is very likely that the thermistors included with the kit, are not matched up to the temperature tables in firmware. This would result in incorrect temperature readings. Not very godd for reliable printing, and could also be dangerous. The other possibility is what Eve is mentioning, in that it could be crap filament. In either case, the correct course of acby jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Dude, you gotta stick to the correct advice, or you're going to be chasing your tail forever. Calibrate first. Not last. The reason you're having to push is due to the high temperature. Remember that your goal is to make it print well using the correct parameters, and not the other way around. Stick to the temperature ranges I listed above, and bring everything else in to work with it. Also, don'by jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
@Chris it's not clear of you are printing with ABS or PLA. Either way, your temperatures are wrong. ABS Hotend ~230°C Bed ~110°C PLA Hotend ~180°C Bed ~70°C These are settings I use when printing on bare glass. For PLA, must use a cooling fan. For ABS, the fan must be turned off. These two rules are well established. I am not familiar with the hot end design on the Migbot, but if you were ruby jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
I've posted several times over the years on the topic of Printing on Glass. Here is a compilation. It's all about temperature people. Adding anything to the glass, or sanding it, is just a crutch. The underlying problem not being addressed is one of the following. 1. ABS filament chemistry is not ideal. Some ABS will seem almost rubbery when warm, and will stick hard to bare glass at 110°C. Othby jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
I believe the three smaller ones in green are MOSFETS. These switch on and off (-) really fast, allowing for fast PWM control of the voltage going to the Hot Ends, and Heated Bed. The stepper motor drivers have a current adjust screw above each one. They only turn about 3/4 turn, so don't force them. Turn them all the way counter clock wise, and they will be at the lowest current. Turn all thby jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
The following components will not fry your board if wired incorrectly, but will produce malfunctions. 1. Stepper motors. run in wrong direction if wire order is reverse. rattle, but do not turn if one pair of wires is reversed. do not turn if wires are not paired correctly, or not connected. turn in unpredictable direction if one pair is not connected. 2. Endstop limit switches. Corresponding aby jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
C15 is a capacitor. Unfortunately, the MKS Base is not Open Source Hardware, so there is no info on value for the capby jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
look on page 1 of this post there's a link to a Google Drive account in the firmware is in thereby jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotefreshpine99 Hello, I've fixed the LCD. It was the cables. However I'm now getting the trouble with getting the motors to move. Please provide more details. the more info you can provide, the quicker the silution will come.by jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteevetanlm Thanks u Invictus, as does anyone have a idea of better Sensor that can be mount on it, as while printing there will be issue using this sensor, why? Because when you are doing multi printing, the sensor will knock on the other print and it really useless to have this sensor, which i give this up. For multi print, where you print more that one layer on a part before starting the neby jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
First thing to look at changing is the Baud Rate setting in the software. 250000 and 115200 are common values there. Im not sure what the lcd behavior should be. Is it possibly connected backward? Double check.by jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
The google drive link is posted higher upby jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Yeah. it goes without saying this thread is not about that kind of support. The topics that I'm trying to address here are firmware and those things that make the mig bot prusa I3 different from others.by jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Leveling takes place on the edges of the bed. If in fact the glass is difficult to measure (I doubt this), you can place a small piece of adhesive tape at each location.by jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
If you want to try glass, get Borosilicate glass 6mm thick. Thinner sheets are not great at providing stable temperature. Also, avoid using clips to hold the glass down. Use silicone adhesive, but only on the edges, not under the glass.by jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
First step is to check for binding of the slides. You will want to disengage the belt for this. The y axis should move with no resistance. If it is smooth, then it could be the acceleration settings in firmware, or the motion settings in the host software for homing, or the stepper driver current adjust.by jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Google Drive Public Share I've created a shared folder on my google drive. I have placed the Marlin firmware there, as well as the rest of the Migbot Prusa i3 resources that are normally included on SD card. I have also placed a pre-configured copy of the repetier firmware, along with the json file used to generate those settings. Bed leveling is turned off, as I don't have this machine, and cby jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Two things: Fix the leadscrew problem. Leaving one side off is not a viable fix. Check power management settings on your computer, and disable anything managing power on your USB ports. You should also disable power management while plugged in, so the computer does not try to sleepby jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
Like I said, my advice only applies to Repetier Host, using CuraEngine. It also assumes that a dump area has been configured in the printer shape section that is 25mm x 55mm in the front left. YMMV with other software, but the concept of setting up the print job as I have is sound, so you should be able to wiggle it in.by jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
You will need to configure the Start G-code section in CuraEngine. This is the built-in slicer in Repetier Host. By default, it is not the slicer selected. The START and END g-code places commands at the front and back of the g-code of the sliced part. These instructions prepare the printer for the job. Put the following in START G90 G21 G28 {IF_BED}M190 S{BED} {IF_EXT0}M104 T0 S{TEMP0} {IF_EXby jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
I can help with the centering issue when I get into the office in an hour or so. You will need to be already using the built in cura engine of repetier host to follow along, since I'm not familiar with the standalone version. Please check back then.by jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
I have opened a new support thread for those of you stuck with this printer.by jcabrer - Repetier
I have opened a new support thread for those of you stuck with this printer.by jcabrer - General Mendel Topics
// This file is part of the pre-installed firmware that came with the Migbot Prusa i3 as recently as May 11, 2015 // It has not been thoroughly tested, so USE AT YOUR OWN RISK! #ifndef CONFIGURATION_H #define CONFIGURATION_H #include "boards.h" // This configuration file contains the basic settings. // Advanced settings can be found in Configuration_adv.h // BASIC SETTINGS: select your boardby jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
You know how the old saying goes: "You get what you pay for." The Migbot Prusa i3 is one of those ridiculously inexpensive 3DPs coming from China. It has a few good things going for it. Technical support is not one of them There is no B.O.M. per se. Only some PDFs and images to guide you in the assembly process. This isn't terrily bad if you never want to touch the pre-installed firmware, butby jcabrer - Prusa i3 and variants
I don't think it's fair to assume that because the majority(?) of us have no negative reactions to our beloved 3D printers, that they could not affect someone else completely different. ABS and PLA filament chemistry varies greatly vendor to vendor, and batch to batch in many cases. It could be as simple as that. My wife and one daughter are allergic to all kinds of things, but the printer doeby jcabrer - General