I usually the technique that viktor mentions above in the initial reply, but before I pull UP on the filament, I push DOWN about a centimeter to make sure that a good bit of the filament is softened. After pushing down, I can generally pull up pretty easily. Sometimes I have to repeat the technique.by jbernardis - General Mendel Topics
A further update on this. I enabled the fillet plugin and chose "segments" which causes SF to simulate the arc with short segments. This resulted in much improved corners in the print. Encouraged, I changed the option the "point" which generates the preferred point form of the g2 and g3 commands. This caused the extruder to return to home position at every corner. Not exactly what I wanted,by jbernardis - Skeinforge
Since I'm using Marlin as my firmware, is there any significant benefit to using the Fillet plugin and using the arc capabilities of this firmware. I'm not happy with the way my corners look sometimes, and I was thinking that this plugin might help. This is touted as an advantage to Marlin. I just don't know what the experience is among users. One other related question. I notice in Marlin tby jbernardis - Skeinforge
The value for esteps needs to be calibrated. There is no simple answer. It depends on the gear ratio in your extruder as well as the diameter of the hobbed bolt - perhaps the most variable component. I use Greg's Wade accessible extruder, and my value for esteps is (I believe) 799.98. There are several web sites that explain the calibration procedure. Basically you need to use the host softwby jbernardis - Firmware - mainstream and related support
There is a specific define in one of the config files (at least for marlin) - DISABLE MAX ENDSTOPS. - or something like that, that is commented out in the code. This means that by default the code is looking for maximum end stops on each axis. Thus result is that you will only get one direction of travel - towards home. You need to uncomment this line and make sure this variable is defined ifby jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
There's not much to it, but here it is.by jbernardis - Skeinforge
I'm having strange behavior with my LCD panel. I "adapted" tommyc's design, sourcing my own parts. Everything works fine, it's just that every once in a while, seemingly randomly, the LCD goes blank. The printer continues to work and interact with my host software, I can even speed up/slow down the print by turning the encoder. I just can't see what I'm doing on the screen. I've played arounby jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks - I thought it would have to. None of my prints have failed because of speeding things up. I just thought I was on thin ice. But I guess not.by jbernardis - Reprappers
I have clip and jitter turned off. Clip actually didn't seem to make much difference, but I didn't really experiment with it too much.by jbernardis - Skeinforge
I had a similar problem when I added an 18 inch USB extension cable. Keep your USB cables short, or, if you need to exceed about 2 meters, add a powered USB hub in the middle.by jbernardis - Developers
Has anybody tried the new MK2a PCB? It has much larger pads for soldering on the feed wires. This might help eliminate the problems many are having. It doesn't matter how thick you feed wires are if there is a poor solder connection.by jbernardis - Reprappers
I use marlin firmware, and occasionally I will use the m220 command to speed things up a bit. As I was reading the skeinforge documentation about bridging, something occurred to me. I think that by using m220, I am changing my feed rate but not my flow rate; essentially I'm thinning out the plastic. I think that if my intent is just to hurry things along, then I should be using m220 in tandemby jbernardis - Reprappers
I agree - it's also impractical to wait for the bed to get cold if you want to print something else. Quite often after a print completes I turn the bed back on right away while I prepare my g-code file. Besides, I'm not sure how it works when cooling, but I think you'd be waiting a LONG if you were waiting for the bed to reach 0; mine seldom goes below 22 or so.by jbernardis - Reprappers
I did some experimentation with this tonight. First, let's look at the original print: I tried to use jitter with a value of 20 to hide these blobs in randomness. Obviously it didn't work. So based on the above discussion, I tried dwindle to see what would happen. I originally tried the values I suggested above, but I was a little aggressive in terms of calculating the volumes, and I foundby jbernardis - Skeinforge
I'm getting the exact same thing. I HAVE found that running the slic3r.exe file with arguments WILL slice the file without bringing up the GUI. However it does it silently in the background. You get your prompt back right away and several seconds/minutes later your file appears. No information on status, and - worse - no information on errors. It will not slice a file with my own configuratiby jbernardis - Slic3r
For now I'm using SF. For the longest time, I didn't know that SFACT was different from SF - I thought it was just an alternate name for the same thing. I downloaded the latest SFACT and have started looking at it. I just haven't adopted it yet. I like your ability to iteratively calibrate the extrusion factors. I've done the standard calibration with measuring the amount of filament being pby jbernardis - Skeinforge
I'm not sure that I fully agree with your definitions of these parameters. My take on it is this: The end rate multiplier is the slowdown factor as the head reaches the end of a thread. The default value of 0.5 means that is printing the end of the thread (and only the end of the thread) at half speed. Your value of 1 means no slowdown at all - which is fine, but according to my interpretatioby jbernardis - Skeinforge
Yeah - I have glass on top of the board. There is no comparison between the heat up times of the heatbed and the hot end. The hot end is definitely the rabbit - it heats up significantly faster than the bed. Usually I don't even preheat my hot end until the bed is fully up to temperature.by jbernardis - Reprappers
Yes - my understanding is that if you do not enable eeprom, your data is only stored in flash and will be overwritten each time you re-upload the firmware. If you enable eeprom, then after each reset - or when you enter m501 - the eeprom values are copied into flash. So you cannot change settings by modifying source code and ten uploading ( actually I think there is a way by playing around withby jbernardis - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I am having an issue with using the m117 command with marlin. This command is supposed to display a message on the LCD display, and indeed if I send an m117 interactively, I can display a message on the LCD. The problem comes when I embed the m117 in a gcode file. When I do this, the display shows the digits "117" before the message and then some garbage characters afterwards. I am using my oby jbernardis - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Thanks for the info. I thought the purpose of jitter was to disguise the slight bulge I get at each layer start. Based on studying the various plugins you mention above, it seemed to me that the magic I was looking for was somewhere in the clip plugin. You say you have it disabled, but it sounds like exactly what I'm looking for. The problem Is that clip seemed to have no effect. I still seeby jbernardis - Skeinforge
It WAS the solder connection. I removed the wire, cleaned out the hole, and re-soldered. Now I not only reach 60 in 1/3 the time I used to, but I can get all the way up to 110 in about 7 minutes. Now I need to tinker with the z height and level to get it back to printing as well as it was before the surgery...by jbernardis - Reprappers
I am not using a PC power supply. I am using a 12v 30amp power supply, but I will check the voltage. Would the wiring heat up if the issue was the solder point?by jbernardis - Reprappers
I'm disappointed with the jitter plugin. Right now I'm using a value like 25 or 30, and the starting points are not in a straight line, but they are not random either. When I print enough layers, an obvious pattern emerges - no less objectionable than the line you get from not using jitter at all. It would be nice if there was true randomness to the starting pointby jbernardis - Skeinforge
I have been printing exclusively in PLA, but I've been concerned that it takes up to 5 minutes to reach 60 degrees. So today, I tried to heat it to 110 for ABS. Not to print just yet - just to see if I could reach that temperature. After about 25-30 minutes, I was up to about 104. It was still climbing, but ever so slowly. This is my second bed, and this one heats up noticeably slower than tby jbernardis - Reprappers
Thanks - I'll give it a try. It's like a lightning rod though - you never know if it's working until it doesn'tby jbernardis - Reprappers
Just so there's no confusion, the values I put in above ARE the values from memory/EEPROM. When I type in M503, here is what I get: Sending: M503 Steps per unit: M92 X44.44 Y44.44 Z2560.00 E699.90 Maximum feedrates (mm/s): M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z5.00 E45.00 Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2): M201 X9000 Y9000 Z100 E10000 Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration: M204 S3000.00 T3000.00by jbernardis - Reprappers
I have been very happy with my prusa since it has entered it's second generation with improved parts, but recently two prints failed because of dropped y steps. One was a small print - not so bad, but the other was on layer 122 out of 132 of a very large print. I wasted a lot of plastic on that one. My feed rate setting in Skeinforge is 40 mm/s, and my Y axis firmware (Marlin) settings are mby jbernardis - Reprappers
That last one looks like the ticket. Like I said, at this point I'm fairly certain it's ABS, but acetone will tell for sure.by jbernardis - Reprappers
Actually have no problems with PLA - as long as I KNOW it's PLA. Incidentally, I did some digging through piles of receipts and determined it IS ABS that I purchased. I just set it aside for now - I'll get to it later. What I am amazed at is how, at least for PLA, characteristics can vary color to color. I've been exclusively using Ultimachine PLA, and noticed that with their white PLA, it waby jbernardis - Reprappers