Ok I understand now, floyds solution should work. Maybe concentric infill will also work, or setting perimeters very high so there's no infill.by imqqmi - Printing
I'm still baffled what you're trying to do. 180 degree orientation? That's upside down. That has zero effect on a flat rectangular object. Set layer height to 0.2 mm and design the object with a height of 0.4mm. Slice it and you got 2 layers.by imqqmi - Printing
Sounds like my arduino nano that arrived dead. It communicated with the serial chip but the microcontroller was dead. It occasionally lights up all the leds randomly. I tried reprogramming the mcu using another arduino to no avail. I've just replaced it and that would be my advice.by imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
It greatly depends on the layer height. As you said the extrusion needs to be squished, so the height should be lower than the width. The lower the height the more it's squished. The first layer (ie proper z offset) is also important, if there's over extrusion and there's a build up of material, that is translated into the next few layers as well. So it's important that the first printed layer hby imqqmi - Printing
Just connect a thermistor, you don't have to use the temperature control in the slicer, so you can compile the code and just ignore the temperature reading. That would be the simplest thing to do. If you want to do it in the code, find out at what line the error is reported. You can try commenting out the #ifndef and see if it compiles.by imqqmi - Reprappers
Could be backlash in the x or y belt. Tighten it and see if the problem is reduced/gone.by imqqmi - Printing
There are no settings for ABL in the config file. Is it marlin you're using? Maybe the devs have moved it to another file. Do a textsearch within the firmware source code folder. Another posibility is that the supplier of your printer removed the code, try the official marlin firmware.by imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
I would get the flat profile using a flatbed scanner. Trace the shape using illustrator or directly in a cad or 3D modelling application. Extrude, Cut the side flap pieces to separate pieces and rotate. Join the shapes together and round the bends/corners.by imqqmi - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
I think it's a known issue with slic3r 1.2.8 and 1.2.9 that they extrude much more. If I look at the paths in repetier host in will print two inner infills on narrow walls (like One perimeter and an infill line gets doubled). 1.2.7 is fine and I've stuck with that version. Hopefully it will be resolved in the next iteration. Even so I've now set the extrusion multiplier at 0.86 for HIPS. Maybe itby imqqmi - Printing
I've found auto bed leveling to be an important factor in my projects. It makes running it much easier and less time consuming starting a print, which has a chance of one in 3 to fail using manual bed leveling, certainly at first couple of weeks. I've also converted the 2 stepper motor design for the z axis to a single one using a looping timing belt and works very well. I've heard it can happenby imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
If it's only in the y direction, your glass plate or whatever you use to print on may be slipping. Try stronger or more clips and/or spray some hairspray on the back of the plate facing the (heated) bed to make it slightly sticky. Also check your acceleration. If your printer shakes too vigorously things will vibrate loose at some point. Set Amax to a lower setting like 1500mm/s2by imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
Do they warp during printing or when cooling? You can try a couple sheets of kitchen towel over the print and let it cool until below 30 degrees. I do this with HIPS and it seems to half the amount of warping.by imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
I stand corrected! Thanks for sharing the solution!by imqqmi - Reprappers
It must have a lookup table, I doubt they have a arithmatic algorythm in place. Maybe they've merged the tables with other header files. Do a text search in the folder. Do you have a link to the fw code?by imqqmi - Reprappers
You could make an object double the thickness of the printed layer height. The slicer will create two layers for you.by imqqmi - Printing
Yep the hack is already in place. The stepstick you linked to is basically the same, it has an extra potmeter to replace R4 so one can adjust. The 0 ohm setting should do the trick. Did you use ABL with the earlier prints as well? How straight are your z rods? The wobble can be transferred to the print. Usually without ABL you get layer shifts, but with ABL the z motor is constantly going back aby imqqmi - Printing
If it's printing higher object is causing the problem, check if the z rods are at a square angle to the bed and the x and y are not skipping steps or slipping. Make sure the print surface is fixed solidly to the bed. The picture has a very confusing background and it's difficult to see what the problem is exactly, could you take another picture with a neutral background? Is it upright or is itby imqqmi - Printing
I'm not sure I understand what you're trying to accomplish. You want the two sheets on top of each other with a space between them in the z axis? You can use the move tool and manually set the z height (I'm using repetier host so it could be slightly different in slic3r host). Or you can design the object with two sheets in auto cad with the space between them you need/want. Or do you want oneby imqqmi - Printing
If the barrel is metal you can do that, and if the ptfe tube melts, I'd just replace it. It's not expensive. PLA is difficult to drill but it will get soft easily at lower temperatures. You could also use boiling water to soften the PLA, the ptfe will survive 100 degrees. While it's not melting it may get soft enough to get it out using a thin wooden stake or something that doesn't damage the bby imqqmi - Printing
M503 prints the current settings stored in the EEPROM and you may be able to get the PID settings as well but I doubt you can recover the thermistor settings as this is a constant lookup table (a constant in C is a read only value). The thermistor index value itself isn't stored in the firmware. If you're savvy with hex editors you could try getting a hex dump from your current firmware using avby imqqmi - Reprappers
Not if the length ie spacing of the tracks is likewise changed to keep the resistance the same.by imqqmi - Reprappers
If you use A4988 you use 16x micro stepping, the 8825 uses 32 with the 3 jumpers in place. The hack involves shorting R4 10k resistor on the A4988. For the 8825 you need to solder a wire to put it into the correct decay mode. On mine it was already replaced by a 000 Ohm resistor. They are tiny, but with a magnifier you can read them if your eye sight isn't perfect. 8825 hack This illustratesby imqqmi - Printing
Could it be an extruder problem? The top layer or is it bottom layer of the second image looks like dotted lines instead of straight lines. Check if the extruder motor runs smoothly without speed changes/rhythmic motion on straight extrusion lines. Check if the current is set correctly, the hobbed bolt is clean and catching the filament properly, the tension on the filament is not too much or tooby imqqmi - General
I usually extrude 6mm or so in the startup gcode: G28 ; home all axes G29 ; auto level G1 X0 Y0 Z5 F5000 ; lift nozzle G92 E0 G1 E6.000 F900.000 ;pre extrude some filament to help start up. G92 E0 3 loops around the object does the rest to get the extrusion up to speed. When it's actually printing the first layer of the object it's fully going. I don't use the 200% extrusion width. Just get theby imqqmi - Reprappers
There are many factors at play here. - the bed screw holes, if fitting snuggly can cause warping when heated - the x smooth rods slightly bends when the carriage is in the center - glass plate, heated bed and y carriage may not be exactly flat, and deform when heated up - some 3 point bed leveling systems don't support 2 of the 4 heated bed corners allowing them to bend and flex freely. I've jusby imqqmi - Reprappers
Did you tension the x belt recently? When the z gets higher the smoothrods could bend inwards and bind up. I don't know what printer you have but with my prusa i3 the x motor and x idler also shifted inwards making the binding permanent. I could go on tensioning but it kept shifting, the tension on the belt remained the same. Something similar can happen to yours.by imqqmi - Printing
Seems like the extruder isn't running smoothly. The extruder gear should not move rhythmically but in one smooth and continuous motion. This can be current related ie skipping steps, or the step stick microstepping is the problem. Google stepstuck an decay mode hack. Both A4988 and 8825 can be configered to run smoother. .by imqqmi - Printing
It must be a cooling and pid issue as pwm kicks in 3 to 10 degrees before hitting the setpoint. If there's not enough power being fed or too much heat is drawn away the hotend will not reach the setpoint. Is the fan cooling the heatbreak on at full speed? I've made a fan controller for mine and can barely hear it while still cooling really well. Is the heater block touching the cooler? Make suby imqqmi - Reprappers
Does it do the same at lower speeds? Maybe the belts are not tight or bearings are loose. It overshoots the corners, lashes back too much after that. Is there any play or springiness in the x and y carriage?by imqqmi - Reprappers
The toolchain is - cad design suite to make your models, or use a 3d modeling program if you're already familiar with one. Or download the object in stl format. - your printer needs firmware. You've probably got an arduino based board. You'll need arduino studio to load your board with firmware like repetier or marlin. Configuration is an important part of the process. - when you setup the prinby imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants