It's because your endstop is on the right, the x carriage can only go in the positive direction from the end stop. When moving to the left is moving from 0mm to -200mm for example. I'm not sure if the travel limits can take negative values #define X_MAX_POS 0 #define X_MIN_POS -200 You could move the end stop to the left of the printer and set xhome dir to -1.by imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
First check the resistance of the thermistor as is, i.e. leave it on the hot end. If it reads lower than 100 ohms it's broken, if it reads 0 it's shorted, check the leads making contact on the heater block. If it reads much higher than 100k at ambient like above 1 mega ohm. Now check at which connector it's connected to. Maybe you've connected it to the 2nd extruder connector. Also lookup the coby imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
And easier still to get a 24V and hook it up on the 11A connector and rewire the heated bed. No need for a SSR Congrats on the PSU hack btw!by imqqmi - Reprappers
Maybe it's a good idea to start troubleshooting your current extruder problems before considering replacing it. There might be an easy fix and you may learn how it works along the way, making it easier to repair or optimize as you go. There are many things to consider when changing a hotend Bowden or wades extruder, direct drive or geared, do you want to include auto bed leveling, led lights, prby imqqmi - General
I've found this on google: atx psu higher voltageby imqqmi - Reprappers
I found this in another thread, this is when just extruding and is always happening, would this also illustrate your intermittent problem? Just thought of something. Since it's not happening always and only after a long time unattended, could it be the filament being in a knot, the extruder motor is stalling? You could try blocking the filament and see if this replicates the symptoms. Just a thby imqqmi - Printing
You can try a webcam or ethernet cam. It would be very helpful to further troubleshoot the problem. Some recording software allows triggers to record video, you may be able to start recording after x hours? There are freeware video security software packages that can be setup for this kind of thing. If you can't record video, maybe you can record the audio, maybe you can identify the problem byby imqqmi - Printing
The 247 degree limit is imposed by the PEEK material that is used as heat break. It will get soft at lower temps than that and under higher pressures (faster prints) will get the heater block pushed out. I got a cheap jhead and ran it up to 230 degrees with no problems (the PLA wades extruder didn't fare so well though). I now use the all metal E3D V6 (not sure if it's the original or chinese maby imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
@RRuser, yes that would point to backlash. This can be caused by belts that are not tight enough (X and or Y), or the x tensioner moves up and down when the x carriage changes direction. I just fixed mine with a brass plate bend in a U shape and soldered a brass nut to it to replace the plastic printed part. It was not strong enough to handle the tension. Once I fixed the up down motion the infilby imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
It seems to me that the pins.h maps pin 14 to the heated bed, see line 730. You can try plugging the heated bed thermistor into the second connector and see if it has a correct readout. I'm not sure how the compiler handles #defines that has already been defined. If you want to play it safe, you can first #undef the define and then make your #define to replace it. The second thermistor connectby imqqmi - Reprappers
In theory it can be done but only if you're very comfortable hacking the psu. If you're considering a new psu, I'd recommend adding a 24V psu just for the bed. If you use a ramps board you can hook it up on the high current connector and solder the heated bed wires to use the 24V terminals. Heating will be much faster and the resistance from wires will not affect the heating much. I don't know wby imqqmi - Reprappers
The problem with heaters is that the resistance is lower when cold so the initial power draw could be higher. Maybe adding a fan will help to keep it cool and use thermal paste on the cooler for better heat transfer. On the other hand, A good mosfet of 400V 50A with a low rds on can handle it, though you may have to drive it with a higher voltage than a micro controller can supply, like 12V. Yoby imqqmi - Reprappers
My guess is that your previous board tracks were too thin, and failed at some point, but could produce higher temperatures. 92 degrees is about normal at 12V. To improve you can increase the voltage if the psu has a potmeter, use insulation like cork under the heated bed or switch to 24V for the heated only.by imqqmi - Reprappers
I just realized you're using repetier firmware, I'm not familiar with it unfortunately. But if the hardware works, it's a matter of properly configuringthe firmware. You can also try marlin firmware and see if that works. It sounds like repetier is configuring the analog input as a digital one, that would explain the readings you get. I think you need to find the proper board configuration so itby imqqmi - Reprappers
Did you try a different stepstick? Or connect the extruder motor to z axis connector? Did you try connecting another stepper motor? What voltage is on pin 28 or dir e0 pin without stepstick? 1.7 isn't enough to reverse direction, should be at least 2.2v according to the datasheet.by imqqmi - RAMPS Electronics
The reversing thing isn't repeatable, you can't reproduce it at will? Those are the harder things to troubleshoot. I just fixed some network printers hanging the spooler service in windows only around the afternoon. It took nearly a week before I could find a reproducable workflow of the problem. It could be usb/serial related. If you own a sd card and the printer has a reader, long prints may bby imqqmi - Printing
Maybe the ground and power is provided by a constantly running fan to reduce the number of wires. Check the proximity sensor and follow the other leads. If there are non check if you can find the type code and lookup tne datasheet hoa to connect it.by imqqmi - Reprappers
Yes it works because the firmware thinks the temp sensor of the hotend and the hot end are one system. You are basically fooling it to circumvent the safety precautions. It's only sensible to power a heater if it is being monitored by a sensor. You risk a fire if you don't. You can assign the hot end temp sensor as the heated bed sensor, but again you're only fooling the firmware and you'll nby imqqmi - Reprappers
If it's going in the opposite direction you can turn the stepper motor plug around and it will go in the right direction.by imqqmi - RAMPS Electronics
The temp sensor needs to work in order for the bed to heat up. There are safety checks in the firmware to prevent the bed from overheating and cause fire.by imqqmi - Reprappers
Just use a longer cable or a more flexible one. Mine is with a u bend back to the frame to the side. The force is in the same plane as the motion of the print bed.by imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
How tight are the belts? Is there any backlash? Are the solid infill lines in pairs or evenly spaced? How are the infill conrners, any buildup of material that increases with height? What slicer are you using?by imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
It depends on how long it reverses direction. He could also hook up a low power led with 1k resistor to ground, the point is to visualize what is actually happening. The dir pin isn't pulsing exactly, not like the step pin.by imqqmi - Printing
Maybe the mosfet is broken? Does the ledturn on when heating the bed? Pin D8 is correct for ramps. You can try measuring d8 with a volt meter and see if it's changing when you turn on the heater. Also make sure you've got power on the 11Amps input. You can connect a fan on the heater output to check if it's working. If so the heated bed may be faulty or not wired correctly. ramps schematic Uby imqqmi - Reprappers
@RRuser: agreed, I soon will design one that can be fixed to the heated bed corner. I need one as I swap my prusa i3 3 point wood y carriage plate to an 4 point aluminium one, the wood is too flexible and 3 point is easier to level but the unupported corners make it vibrate too much. I currently use the unused heated bed corner hole with a cable tie.by imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
What design were you using? I use an adapted wades extruder with a hobbed theaded rod I bought from reprapworld. It works very well. I don't have any experience with direct drives so can't comment on that.by imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
Or too fast if it's too liquid it would more stringy, I guess. Pla or abs? Yes, a digital volt meter. Run the gcode and whenever it reverses, see if the voltage changes. From dir pin to ground.by imqqmi - Printing
The temperature of the hotend also seems too low, this may solve the holes. You could try putting a dvm on the dir pin of the extruder. If it's told to reverse you can rule out hardware problems and troubleshoot firmware and gcode. Also note that the generated gcode uses absolute positioning, when extruder is at say 100mm and then G1 E95 will retract. There are regular g92 e commands to reset itby imqqmi - Printing
Lulzbot mini does auto levelling using an electrical connection through the nozzle and small metal plates in the corner. This works with an automatic nozzle cleaning system. See this video from 4:50 Lulzbot miniby imqqmi - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)