Sounds like retractions to me. That's the only reason I can think of why the extruder would reverse. Otherwize it may be a slicer problem.by imqqmi - Printing
There are many effects at play that affects hole size. Filament tends to be drawn inward when cornering, the matetial shrinks when cooled, the inside of the corner is squashed more than the outside etc. If layers aren't perfectly alligned, it makes the hole smaller. You can try hexagonal holes instead of circular, which helps. Drilling out holes isn't that bad. See http://manual.slic3r.org/troubby imqqmi - Printing
Check if the voltage over the ntc when connected is 4.7 to 4.8V when heater is off, voltage drops when heating. If not, the board is faulty, if yes, check the pin.h configuration. thermistor Extruder1 should be on pin analog 13.by imqqmi - Reprappers
Or an usb isolator: usb isolatorby imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
It's best to set the e steps while extruding through the nozzle and printing temps. You'll know when it's skipping steps, you can hear it clearly. Make sure the filament isn't slipping. The bowden tube shouldn't be too long. 50-55 cm should be long enough. Also measure the filament diameter and set the slicer accordingly. Set the extrusion multiplier to 1 for now. Slow the print down to 30mm/s anby imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
I guess it's a combination of factors, I've also seen a post where one pc got problems while another was ok. My own experience is that switching psus have difficulty sharing ground, and dual power is tedious at best. Server psus are of course the exception as you can find multiple in one server chassis. I think psus for led drivers don't have to interact with other psus either so may not be desigby imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
the damage must be too extensive. If you get another board you can consider getting a ramps and arduino mega 2560. They are cheaper and easier to obtain.by imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
No it's certainly not normal and unfortunately I've seen more reports of this problem. My guess is that the 5V regulator or ferrite bead gets overheated and burned / blown up when there's a bad quality external PSU connected and the USB cable is plugged into the PC. Could you show a picture and make and model of the PSU? It would be interesting to see if there's a certain brand to be avoided.by imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
You've mentioned lowering the extruder acceleration. I'd put that back to 2000mm/s2. There's another setting: retraction acceleration. Also set this to 2000mm/s2. I've managed to get up to 65mm/s retraction speed. At first I had a retraction acc. of 3000mm/s2 and the stepper motor stalled beyond 30mm/s speed. At 2000mm/s2 it was much improved. I use a bowden setup and had 5mm retraction length seby imqqmi - Printing
I'm not familiar with the repetier firmware, but you most likely can change the thermistor type. If you're lucky your thermistor type is already in the firmware. It will use a different lookup table. Hopefully you can find one that's closer to reality. To make sure it's correct, I'd check with a dvm and a thermo couple to see if the temperature is within the desired range. If not, you could changby imqqmi - Reprappers
I agree with Olaf, increase the temperature. I usually print ABS at 268 degrees but it really depends on the filament. Make sure you've got an all metal hot end before trying temperatures above 240 degrees. Extrusion looks good to me, I'd keep the settings you use for now. The sagging is probably due to the infill not being bridged properly, either increase the infill or add more solid top layeby imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
If the effect is a function of the z axis, check if the z smooth rods are perfectly parallel, and square to the print bed. Also check if they run smooth without binding. Is the cube square at the bottom and sheared at the top? probably both z and y smooth rod are non parallel and/or non square to the other axes.by imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
Does it unretract? Does it make a noise while trying to retract? Acceleration for e is set to 10000, try 1000.by imqqmi - RAMPS Electronics
Just try to rule out the things you can. Following Triffid hunters calibration guide is an excellent first step. keeping a log is also a good idea if you run into the same problems again. As Frank said this is the most complex stage to get things working, and you'll learn the most. When you add things like auto bed levelling and good quality parts printing will become easier and more reliable. Thby imqqmi - Printing
Recheck e steps per mm by measuring and marking 100mm of filament, extrude 100mm and measure the actual extruded length adjust e steps accordingly, then do a single wall test cube and calibrate the extrusion width using multiplier in the slicer. then calibrate the z offset by measuring the perimeter height, it should match first layer height. It looks like the temperature might be too high too.by imqqmi - Printing
The pole and logo will be much stronger and faster if printed flat on the bed. You could also add ribs to give it more strength. You can design a hole or clip on the base and glue or melt it in. If you've got a rotary tool you can do some friction welding.by imqqmi - Printing
could be velocity and or acceleration. Reducing feed rate doesn't help the relative quality long stretches vs shorter ones. If you reduce acceleration might help. If you can show us a picture would be very helpful, and what vmax and amax settings are used.by imqqmi - Reprappers
It can matter if you have a printer capable of very high print speeds. Also, if you plan to print flex filaments like ninja flex, the 1.75 is very flexible and can be hard to push through the extruder. It's mainly why I chose 3mm, I wanted to be able to print any filament and had some special use cases for flex.by imqqmi - Printing
Electronics is another hobby of mine, so fixing the cable to relieve the solder joint of mechanical stress is something I do without thinking Also making sure the moving wires bend along a wide angle instead of bending along a sharp angle. Some extra length can help and some heat shrink tubing, though I do it without that.by imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
Could be temperature related,try +10 degrees, could be pressure of the nozzle, check if there's no leak near the heater block. Top layers usually print slower, is it related to the extruder motor not being able to run slowly? Does is skip or not run slowly? It could be the current is not enough or that the stepstick needs to run in mixed decay mode. Google stepstuck hack. I recently applied theby imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
It never happened to me yet (fingers crossed). Soldered wire gets very brittle, so try to fix the wire farther along to the heated bed with a cable tie or kapton tape. Only use fine stranded wire. If it has coarse strands, try RC car wire instead, it's purpose build for high current and motion.by imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
Congrats solving the problem! It has been improved a great deal. I was under the impression that I had the same problem, though not nearly as badly as this. But it turned out to be the stepstick for the extruder motor. I used the 8825 without decay hack. After some research it turned out I was using A4988 stepstick which already included the 'decay hack', the R4 resistor was already bridged, withby imqqmi - Prusa i3 and variants
You say 16-20 tooth pulleys? It's either 16 or 20. Assuming you're using 20 tooth pulleys, Repetier host belt calculator says 80 steps per mm, for 16 tooth 100 steps per mm. Check the dip switches under the stepsticks. They should all be 'on'. This will set the micro stepping. All three switches at 'on' is 16x micro stepping. If somehow the dip switches are rotated 180 degrees by mistake, the diby imqqmi - Reprappers
It depends if you've changed anything in the hardware or in slicer settings. Even a new roll of filament with a slightly different diameter can cause some under extrusion. Slipping filament because the filament is thinner. I usually measure the filament at 4 or 5 points over a stretch of 1m, using the average as diameter. Tolerances can vary, even with the same spool.by imqqmi - Printing
O come on o_lampe! Just ask for some pictures, a video, settings, type of printer, slicer, firmware. But I guess having a mystery is much more funby imqqmi - Reprappers
I guess it can also depend on the filament thickness. 1.75mm vs 3mm. Mine is 3mm and takes more heat/longer drying. I haven't used PETG yet so I can't comment on that. Could it be that PETG gets soft at lower temperatures than nylon?by imqqmi - Printing
I haven't looked at the github you linked to, and I don't know what tensioner you use, but mine is a rework and it has just replaced the entire idler part. It has a hole in which the actual idler sits. The tensioner spannerplate does the actual tensioning using a screw. The x belt spanner (the left most part) contains the bearing, and a nut for the spannerplate screw. I've made a 3D render here,by imqqmi - Reprappers
I agree with DC42, you'll need to balance the z offset (getting a correctly extruded layer height and width) and adjusting the extrusion multiplier (make sure you've calibrated E steps). Try printing a single wall test cube and measure the wall width with a digital caliper, see if it matches the set extrusion width. Setting a wider first layer created other problems, and will still under extrudeby imqqmi - Printing
I'm not familiar with the MKS 1.3 board, does it have separate terminals for 12V and 24V for the heated bed? I'd get a 12V PSU and run the electronics on that, and use the 24V PSU exclusively for the heated bed. I'm also running my 12V heated bed on a 24V PSU, but it's a dedicated PSU just for the heated bed, the rest is powered by a 5A 12V PSU. I will soon replace it with a 20A 12V PSU, I'm plby imqqmi - Printing
You've bought an axial thermistor (wires at both ends). It's better to buy one with radial wiring (wires at the same side). The difficulty with thermistors is, unless you know exactly the brand and make with a matching datasheet with a lookup table what resistance corresponds with what temperature, you'll need a temperature reference, a DVM with a thermocouple for example. You can then measure inby imqqmi - Printing