Check to make sure the idler on your extruder is applying enough pressure and that the hob (the part that looks like it has teeth to bite the filament) is lined up with the filament.by bdcannon - General
Hey KDog, Glad I could help! That was my tutorial on The Maker Society Website! Those power supplies are tanks. We give them to all of the members that participate in our build series. We've had over 80 participants and I've only heard of one of them dying. - Ben ~Stay Calm Out Thereby bdcannon - Reprappers
Hey Jusme, What software are you using to generate your gcode? bdc ~Stay Calm Out Thereby bdcannon - General
What hotend are you using? bdc ~Stay Calm Out Thereby bdcannon - General
My buddy just asked me this so I thought it would be a good tip for everyone out there that didin't know. If you want to know the gear reduction, just count the number of teeth on the gears. For example if the drive gear has 5 teeth and the driven gear (big one) has 10 teeth, you have a 2:1 reduction. Hope this helps if anyone was reading this and wondering what was going on. bdc ~Stay Calm Oby bdcannon - General
I'm not sure where the actual decided on reduction came from but I'm sure it was a matter of space available had something to do with it. A couple things happen when you have a gear reduction, for example, you'll gain torque but loose speed. So if you make your driven gear too tall, you'll be limited on retraction speed and extruding speed of the filament. Also, if you wanted to get more torque,by bdcannon - General
Hey Fyrebug, What firmware are you using? I know for Marlin, which I use, there is a feature called software endstops. That means if the printer knows (or thinks) its at, lets say 145 mm from x home and the firmware says that it has only 150 mm to move total in the x axis, it will prevent you from moving all the past that 150 mm mark. If you look in the settings for your firmware you'll probablyby bdcannon - General
The Extruder set up is from MakerGear Here and hereby bdcannon - General
richrap Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Nice, And well done. You can't really go wrong > using that list as a starting point, hopefully in > the months to come this will be seen by many as a > good reference for new reprappers and an ongoing > guide for the future. I believe it can only do > good for RepRap to have some sort of sensible > guidby bdcannon - General
Thirded. I explain to some of my buddies that have started RepRap is that if you look at the nozzle and plastic being extruded for the first layer and you see the extruded thread "drooping" down and away from the direction of travel, then you are too high for your first layer. I hope that is somewhat clear by what I mean. If not I can draw a picture I guess. I hope this helps. bdc ~Stay Calm Ouby bdcannon - General
Well it's settled. Your printer is haunted. I can only advise you to print a cross immediately and perform an exorcism. Good luck... bdc ~Stay Calm Out Thereby bdcannon - General
Here's a fan duct that i've had pretty good success with . It's pretty successful with the Makergear hotend because the thermistor and the brass nozzle and heatercore are really well insulated. The rest of the barrel that the filament travels through to the heatercore isn't insulated. With the fan blowing through the duct it, as I mentioned before, helps keep the cool end cool and the hot end hoby bdcannon - General
I'm not particularly familiar with botmills hotend kit but I used to have similar problems with the Makergear hotend. Adding a fan minimized the melting zone of the hotend. I guess you can say it keeps the hot end hot and the cool end cool or at least cooler. I'm not sure if the botmill kit already implements one but I found it helps cut down on unwanted oozing. Hope that will help. bdc ~Stayby bdcannon - General
I was having the same problem on lots of my prints and it was driving me crazy, especially when I was trying to print pulleys. I noticed that the "tear" was in the direction where the print head was moving from object to object. So, I added the lift, just a small amount, .15 mm, and it lessened it greatly. Hopefully this helps. bdc ~Stay Calm Out Thereby bdcannon - General
Agreed. If nophead was in Southern California, I would definitely buy him a beer. bdc ~Stay Calm Out Thereby bdcannon - General
I guess you can say bodging these is almost like a creative process for designing an actual pretty solution. Maybe a before and after section would be more appropriate. bdc ~Stay Calm Out Thereby bdcannon - General
HAHA wow. I especially love the paper clip terminal. If we were giving away the "bodge of the month award". I think you would be the front runner. bdc ~Stay Calm Out Thereby bdcannon - General
You say socket, I say housing... Let's call the whole thing off! bdc ~Stay Calm Out Thereby bdcannon - General
Quoteaplavins I've printed the upgrade if i ever want to replace it but my philosophy is "if it aint' broke don't fix it"! is a creedo I will live and die by. I feel like most of the time I have the replacement parts to fix my printer, but one of my least favorite things to do is break down my printer and reassemble it. My z coupler broke too, original prusa couplers and rather than replace it,by bdcannon - General
Haha that sounds pretty awesome. I definitely would have a few that I would have submitted.by bdcannon - General
True, but this was an act of necessity rather than planning. If I had smaller zip ties, I might have taken the time to do it prettier. I was just wondering what other hacks or desperate acts other people had done so we could have a good laugh at it. I was offering myself as an example. bdc ~Stay Calm Out Thereby bdcannon - General
I don't know if you guys have had similar problems in the past, but I'm trying to import an stl into openSCAD and when I render with CGAL so that I can export the compilation as an STL I get "CGAL error in CGAL_Nef_polyhedron's union operator: CGAL ERROR: assertion violation!" Now typically I just send the STL through netfab's cloud service and that normally fixes the problem, but not in this casby bdcannon - General
So here is something I thought would be an interesting topic. "What are some last ditch efforts you've maid to keep you printer running or "Well it's the best I can do for now." hacks/mods? The uglier the better. I'll give you an example. I noticed my x stepper was getting a little too hot for my liking. I have heatsinks, but no clean way to secure them. Not even super glue at the moment. Solutby bdcannon - General
It's true you will have to push more current to your steppers for more power (P = VI) with cheaper, not so torquey (is that a word?) motors but when you're starting out and you can find some inexpensive steppers, I'd say go for it. Sure they will run hot, but a some heat sinks on the case of your steppers will help alleviate that problem. I started out with inexpensive salvaged steppers for my aby bdcannon - General
I think everyone is getting this right. That's the easy way out of the argument, but I think the biggest problem with this article and with what we are discussing is that a lot of us have different ideas when we say "Save RepRap". When I first saw the article, my thought was, "Hell, RepRap seem to be doing pretty damn well. I guess no one has been checking up on the awesome development that's beeby bdcannon - General
I tried a while back using a paint/primer in one and it did a decent job of smoothing the surface, but you do end up with the finish of the paint. Use high gloss, get high gloss object afterwards. I guess it depends on what outcome you are looking for. bdc ~Stay Calm Out Thereby bdcannon - General
Hey Josh, Maybe I missed it in your post, but what have you done with your sensing line on the power supply? Sometimes these types of power supplies salvaged from computers can be pretty particular about the loads they receive. That makes me think that you PSU is happy with the load from the bed and then when it reaches temperature, there is no more load and then something internally in the PSUby bdcannon - General
Hey Guys, I was wondering if anybody has had problems with using Solidworks or Blender exported stl files. From both sources I get "Processing Failed" when I try to upload them to Netfabb. Also, when I import them into openSCAD the object gets important but it is very small, I mean like dot in the distance small. Stl objects generated by openSCAD have no problem. I was wondering if anybody knewby bdcannon - General
Very interesting article from the guys over at Hackadayby bdcannon - General
I think jcabrer solution is just about the best option. Objects with small perimeters, pulleys and small gears are notorious for this, should have about 4 printed each time. This cuts down the time that the print nozzle will stay on one part. Or you could really get down on your cool settings if you don't want to waste plastic. bdc ~Stay Calm Out Thereby bdcannon - General