I run mine from the power supply.by lunarkingdom - General
If your firmware calls for the limit switches to be normally open and they are normally closed or the exact opposite it will cause this problem, I was trying to move my axis when I was building my printer and I had not added limit switches yet but my firmware was looking for normally closed and could not find them as they were not attached and were in the open position without wiring. If your Yby lunarkingdom - General
I was and still am using a SG90 9 gram Tower Pro micro servoby lunarkingdom - General
Yeah, it worked for a week before the brown out's started, made me think it would run fine on a ramps platform. I even bought a new power supply lol well at least I have a spare now. I swapped out the mega and ramps boards for brand new ones and had the same brownout problem, once I got the 5v from a step down converter off the power supply it went away.by lunarkingdom - General
Use two power supplies and a relay, one for your ramps 1.4 and everything but the heat bed and the other for your heat bed. I get to 105c in just a few minutes. I use 1/4 inch glass, it heats up evenly enough that I have no curling when using hairspray and using the raft technique on larger parts. Get some Ceramic Fiber Heat Insulation Blanket to reduce heat loss from under your heat bed. This woby lunarkingdom - General
With ABS the larger taller parts want to warp, in extreme cases I use hairspray on glass with 4mm brim then I make a raft in my design of 2mm thick in a circle that is 33% larger than my part and so far have not had any more warping, at first I was against using this much filament to waste but after crappy large prints I decided it was totally worth it.by lunarkingdom - General
Well I put the servo on it's own power from the power sup[ply through a step down convertor and....no more brown outs! Thanks for all the advice!by lunarkingdom - General
Quoteggherbaz Ok. Then most likely as dc42 said, your 5 volts regulator in the mega board is getting overheated. Get a cheap LM7805 and supply the power to the servo via power supply instead of the mega board. I will try this before I swap out the power supply, I have an adjustable dc to dc step down converter I can use as I have it on hand. So can I just reroute the pos and neg wires to the dcby lunarkingdom - General
his calipers say mm ;-)by lunarkingdom - General
Quoteggherbaz Unless you have a multimeter that can read values higher than 10 amps, you need something like this: Disconnect you heated bed and run the test, if it doesn't reset, then check your bed wiring, if everything is ok, then set your heated bed on a different power supply or get one that can handle everything + 10% more. I am already running 2 power supplies as I have a 12x12 inch heby lunarkingdom - General
I just happened to get my 2 backup mega 2560 boards today so I swapped the 2560 and the ramps 1.4, got it flashed with my copy of marlin and started a print. It leveled the bed fine and started to print and then..........marlin rebooted from a brown out I assume. Pretty sure the ghost I have been chasing is the power supply going out! Anyone know how to test the power supply besides a volt meterby lunarkingdom - General
ggherbas, that video was from a week ago before I adjusted the pololu current and possibly shorted something. It was running from an sd card. It was working fine before I messed it up somehow.by lunarkingdom - General
yeah but if it was working perfect before for the last week or two? I am pretty sure I shorted something in the vicinity of the Y pololu board, the mega2650 runs on 5v, so does the servo, whatever is going on is in the 5 volt supply.by lunarkingdom - General
Quotefrankvdh What do you mean your "RAMPS board resets"? The RAMPS board doesn't have a processor, so I don't think it can reset. And "when the z probe goes to move"? Surely the Z probe is physically attached to the hotend so they move together? Do you mean "when the Z axis moves"? I'd guess that your problem is that your power supply isn't strong enough to provide the required current. And mby lunarkingdom - General
Are you sure your current is set optimally? If not use this to help you:by lunarkingdom - General
this helped me do it, a clear easy walkthrough:by lunarkingdom - General
Adjusted my pololu boards and now MEGA2560 board resets when the z probe starts to move, is my ramps board dying? I was battling my Y axis loosing place so I tuned my driver boards to the correct current but....could it have been a ramps problem? X, Y and Z axis move fine, when the z probe goes to move into the down position the ramps board resets.by lunarkingdom - General
now my ramps 1.4 board resets when the z probe goes to move, scratching my head, going to start another thread...by lunarkingdom - General
figured it out, well the tuning anyway, the driver board has a vref of 0.4v x 1 amp the motor I am using needs 1.68A 1.68 times .4 = .672 V off to tune them now....by lunarkingdom - General
I am starting to think it is a current problem, well I would like to rule out if it is a current issue anyway, the info on my stepper motors: Manufacturer Part Number 17HS19-1684S1 Step Angle 1.8° Step Accuracy 5% Holding Torque 45Ncm(64oz.in) Rated Current/phase 1.68A Phase Resistance 1.65ohms Voltage 2.8V Inductance 2.8mH±20%(1KHz) Weight 400g I am using an Ice-Blue Stepstick stepper driver,by lunarkingdom - General
AFAIK Kapton tape is the one you need to use, you also need some glass mat material for thermal insulation like this:by lunarkingdom - General
by lunarkingdom - General
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,800,495} // default steps per unit for Ultimaker #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 5, 25} // (mm/sec) #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {2000,2000,100,10000} // X was 3k, Y was 3k, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for Skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot. #define DEFAULTby lunarkingdom - General
Hey, I was able to print at 100mm/sec with my current settings on another print but I made a new file with smaller wall thickness and what is basically happening is when trying to infill a very narrow gap it looses position while wiggling the Y axis so fast in such a small gap. I already lowered my jerk from 3000 to 2000 and my acceleration from 3000 to 2000 which worked really well on other prinby lunarkingdom - General
I use glass matt with kapton tape around the heat block and I use a e3d style tip with a fan shrowd, never have heat problems any more.by lunarkingdom - General
Looks ok do you have a really sturdy mount on the servo? Is the arm you printed rigid enough? I actually used 5 min epoxy to attach the limit switch so I would not haver to worry about shifting. Post a pic of your setup.by lunarkingdom - General
Yes I meant Z thanks I edited it to make more sense ;-)by lunarkingdom - General
Can someone tell me what is the G code for raise Z before auto bed leveling? I want to add it to slic3r before auto home and bed leveling.by lunarkingdom - General
Thanks!by lunarkingdom - General
where are the acceleration and jerk settings located, probably in the firmware? Where to look?by lunarkingdom - General