I get mine from here, very well priced and the quality is excellent with high tolerance cuts. They ship all over Europe which is handy as much cheaper than I can buy locally in Denmark. http://www.motedis.com/shop/Slot-profiles/Profile-20-I-Type-slot-5/Aluminium-Profile-20x20-I-Typ-slot-5::1076.htmlby Antscran - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Hi cwaa, My second post actually links to some prices I compared, however I am happy to provide a link to some 2020 T-slot for reference. http://www.motedis.com/shop/Slot-profiles/Profile-20-I-Type-slot-5/Aluminium-Profile-20x20-I-Typ-slot-5::1076.htmlby Antscran - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Yep could be, would be interested to understand why. It is a unique product so guess they can charge what they like, I am just curious. From what I can see the raw material and process is the same no matter if it's T-slot or V-slot, you just swap the die shape out to form the different profile. I posted a reply to RatRig's advert HERE on the forum as they seem to be the only producer in the EUby Antscran - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Hi, Recently brought some T-slot profiles for a project, was just looking at your site and curious why your 2020 profiles and other profiles are so much more expensive? V-slot 2020 500mm length is €4,99 inc. tax + postage T-slot 2020 500mm length is €1,61 inc. tax + postage Obviously the slot shape is different but why such a large (3x) difference in price? Look forward to hearing from you,by Antscran - For Sale
Hi all, I have recently purchased some 2020 T-slot profiles which are well made with a good finish and was just looking at V-slot prices for comparison. The V-slot is 2-3 times the price, yeah it has a V profile but trying to understand why there is such a price difference?by Antscran - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Hi all, Thought I would share a little idea I had which seems to work pretty well, its a 3D printed bearing which also uses 2mm PTFE. It makes use of commonly available PTFE tubing for the area which is in contact with the linear shaft, combined with a printable bearing housing. This has quite a few advantages; as it's light weight, PTFE has an extremely low friction coefficient and if the tubeby Antscran - Mechanics
@bobc Great to see this under development again, been holding off buying a RAADS board which seem difficult and pricey to get hold off anyway.by Antscran - Controllers
I have agree that the PanelDue is overkill but can see there are people who want that functionality. I take a more practical approach to printing and would sooner spend my money on better stepper motors and drivers, as well as upgrading to the Arduino Due. It's a shame the RAMPS-FD project was abandoned! I work with electronics but still fairly new to 3D printing, I really don't need to have aby Antscran - Developers
Amigob, nice work.by Antscran - Developers
Look forward to seeing the results Amigobby Antscran - Developers
Yep, I see it now looking at the board layout, the connector right by the SD card. Well I am building 2 printers with a friend, we are likely to use RADDS so when you have everything made up and tested let me know and I will take 2 boards off you.by Antscran - Developers
Hi, Ok cool that confirms SD_CSEl from the schematic you posted. One thing I have noticed on the RADDS board JP5 is the LCD connector which is a 12 pin, then they also have JP6 listed for the SD-Card. JP6 is shown as an 8 pin jumper? Maybe I am confusing this with another connector and don't have RAADS v1.5 to hand, yet!by Antscran - Developers
I would use this as the reference for the RAADS , as it's marked as the v1.5 schematic. You really need to trace the pins back to the SD card, then you can see how they are laid out 100% and see how they conform to the SD card standard (link I posted before). I still think CS0 is likely to be SD_CSEL, as the CS1 is used by the SD card on the RADDS board. However to be sure the reverse engineerby Antscran - Developers
Hi Amigob, This might prove useful SD Card From what I can see CS1 on the RAADS PCB (JP6) is the Card Select 1. I am guessing CS0 is the SPI card select pin for the SD card on the LCD. SD_CSEL I presume is from the original RAMPS LCD you are referencing? So thinking this could possibly be connected to CS0, but I need to see the original schematic you are referencing. CD is connected, this iby Antscran - Developers
Hi Amigob, This sounds like a nice little mod. I will see if I can find a schematic for the RAADS LCD board, this will confirm the connections, a schematic for the RAMPS LCD would also be of use.by Antscran - Controllers
Hi all, Just curious if anyone has used RAMPS LCD with a RADDS board? I was looking at the schematic for the RAADS and it has 3 IC's, but one is not listed on the schematic, after a bit of research its 3.3v to 5.5v level shifter made by TI TXB0106 Not tried this as I don't have anything to hand but both the RAMPS and RAADS run the LCD in 4 bit mode, so pretty sure you can just use individualby Antscran - Controllers
My current printer is setup pretty well, but I still sit by it for the initial layers to make sure everything is ok. So quite happily download the file to an SD card then I naturally check the print as part of the process, the print is ok 9 out of 10 times but always worth checking. I guess at some point a web interface could be handy, but at the moment I have no need. I was looking at the DUEby Antscran - Controllers
Interesting thread! I have been carrying out some research and was looking at the Arduino Due as an option combined with DRV8825 drivers, I also like the fact it can run Repetier (mainly personal preference). I know development has ceased on the RAMPS+FD v2, but can see the Gerber files are available, was this every built and tested? RADDS is the other option but as stated on the wiki this isby Antscran - Controllers
Hi all, Little late to this but the PT100 subject matter caught my eye, I have worked with PT100 and PT1000 before so this might help some of you. I made a quick a dirty circuit for a PT100 based on 3V, this is based on a 0 to 300C temperature range and produces a nice linear output. The circuit image is below, as well as an Orcad simulation output. The PT100 resistance range is shown on thby Antscran - Controllers
Hi all, I am pretty unfamiliar with the intricacies of open source licenses both hardware and software, and wondering where a manufacturer stands on a Prusa i3 variant and releasing more detailed information on the system. Now I have recently purchased a Wanhao Duplicator i3, a great printer but there are some stupid decisions made on some the design aspects. Anyway I would like to make some mby Antscran - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi Repetier, Thanks for the response and link. Cheers, Antby Antscran - Repetier
Hi all, Pretty new to 3D printing and brought myself a Wanhao i3, it's currently running firmware v0.91. Having a lot of fun tweaking and trimming everything and learning heaps of stuff at the same time. I have been posting on the Wanhao Google Groups forum, where there is an interesting thread about PID. We are comparing notes on extruder temperatures and improvements to the stock extruder sby Antscran - Repetier
Hi Gordonendersby, Cozmicray and Cdru, Thank you all for your input it's good to have other viewpoints as all things I can now research, it's highly likely I will buy a Prusa i3 kit as it's a cheap way to get myself into 3D printing and then modify as my needs require. I am studying at the moment and use a LPKF S63 PCB milling machine, I know they use a single z-axis motor so this also promptedby Antscran - General
Ground cannot be shorted out, you do get digital and analog grounds on some circuits and they are isolated for noise, but they will often share a common ground point and you do also have some electronics isolated from others via opto-couplers or transformers, so these would also not share the same ground. Cars generally have their chassis as ground. I am not familiar with the wiring loom on theby Antscran - General
Hi Digital Dentist, Thank you for the informative reply. I figured a dual motor set-up would eventually become misaligned and couldn't see how you could align it to 100% accuracy in the first place, but wanted to here from an advanced users point of view. So the original Mendel had the right idea with the single z-axis motor, but I can also see how cost a simplicity become a good evolutionaryby Antscran - General
If you have 12V on both the positive rails of the hotend and hotbed, then I would check your ground connection as I would have thought the system has a common ground. If you have a multimeter, turn off all the power to the system and use the continuity function (commonly labelled as the diode checker), it should beep when there is a short. This will allow you to check the ground return.by Antscran - General
Hi all, New to 3D printing but intend to buy a kit soon! I have been doing research and was just watching some interesting videos on the evolution of the RepRap Project, this showed the original Darwin which MakerBot and Ultimaker seem to be based on using the single z-axis motor and moving platform. I have been looking at the Prusa i3 as my first kit and it raised the question on the Pros andby Antscran - General