Just went to buy the E3D, but it's suddenly much more expensive (why?) so I can't buy it now. Too bad.by Ohmarinus - General
Zal je net zien, ga ik naar E3D om een hotend te bestellen, zijn ze ineens veel duurder!by Ohmarinus - Dutch User Group - Archive
Quoteddseeker QuoteSanjayM We are also looking at a super compact mini water cooled hotend, for just one nozzle. Might name it after some fast sea fish/animal. Marlin is already taken though, suggestions welcomed! Not sure if anyone gave any suggestions (I just scrolled back to see the side view image of the Kraken and noticed this) W3D Wahoo is the 3rd fastest fish in the world (max. recordby Ohmarinus - General
I sent an email to my seller and he told me I also needed a new print head for my hotend... (www.reprapworld.com) But I would also like to try out the E3D, I've heard a lot of great things about the hotend!by Ohmarinus - General
Alright, I know that printer, but I would like to build a new printer without altering/adding any vitamins I have found the DXF for the misumi bars here: Going to draw up a new model this evening and hopefully will start printing parts tomorrow!by Ohmarinus - Extruded Aluminum Frames
I'm having a bit of trouble with the 3mm in my bowden setup. It takes more force to extrude and I've heard good things about bowden + 1.75mm however it's gonna cost me. I was doubting to adjust my J-head for 1.75mm or not, but when I heard the print-head on the J-head also needs to be changed, so it would be better to just buy another J-head for 1.75mm, I have decided to look for an E3D all-metaby Ohmarinus - General
Quoteuncle_bob If the motors are powered up, it's normal for the shaft to be "stuck". If the motors are not powered up, you should be able to turn them with your fingers. Unless two of the naked leads are touching, then, it might be harder to turn them by hand, I mean, when they are not connected on your electronics.by Ohmarinus - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
The hobbed bolt is indeed a major factor in filament transport, the short answer would be a straight yes. First, check if the teeth in the hobbed bolt are exactly aligned with the hole in your extruder. If the filament gets a little on the side of the teeth, it will chew much more into the filament. If the teeth are too small it will slip, if they are too big, it will 'eat' your filament, especiby Ohmarinus - Printing
Hi, I am not completely happy with the MendelMax, I see a lot of room for improvement for the frame and other parts. A good example for me to show would be the Taz from Lulzbot, it shows the evolution of the AO-101. Currently I'm just making sketches on paper by hand, but I would like to get deeper into the process and am wondering if there are people here that have rebuild their machine, by uby Ohmarinus - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Helaas las ik het te laat, maar ik dacht direct hier aan: Quotevastgesteld dat de inkepingen niet mooi gelijkstonden met de extruder opening Gelukkig ben je er uit Zelf heb ik een mac en nooit verbindingsproblemen, dus kan ik je daar helaas niet mee helpen..by Ohmarinus - Dutch User Group - Archive
Had zelf eerst de machine gecalibreerd via USB en dan steeds proberen en printen. Als de instellingen helemaal goed zijn sluit ik het LCD-scherm pas aan, dan ligt het vanaf dan alleen nog maar aan je geslicede files en niet meer aan je firmware als er een printje niet kloptby Ohmarinus - Electronica
Okay, we're getting somewhere! Did you try running the file through Netfab? Thats what I do when files look weird, it's this link:by Ohmarinus - General
I just got a box with a lot of different sizes, then I have crimped and shrink-wrapped all little wires I do one bigger one over the four wires together so they don't stray. Play aroundby Ohmarinus - General
Quotewaitaki Been using PLA bearings for almost a year - still not worn. Waitaki, could you tell me what kind of bushings you had printed, and what kind of rods? I am using supersmooth rods, the best I could get in my country, and they are smoovvvvvvvv, smoovvvver than anything I've ever seen. Even smoother than the rods you will get from scanners/printers. Edit: Got a reply from another Dutby Ohmarinus - General
The J-head is a completely different design and it has ridges in the thermal barrier.by Ohmarinus - Printing
Oei, dat zijn linke prijzen! (voor mijn portemonnaie) Er is duidelijk veel veranderd sinds ik een half jaar terug nog op aliexpress keek. Ik ga meteen kijken wat ik kan inslaan Helaas zijn de bushings die jij daar hebt te lang voor mij, maar ik kan er inmiddels vast wel wat kortere op vinden. (Edit: Helaas, weinig nieuws te vinden, ik ga denk ik glijlagers halen bij www.thn.nl )by Ohmarinus - Dutch User Group - Archive
Ramon88, I have bought my last filament through 'filamentenmeer' (Dutch vendor) and I am very pleased with the quality. It's Repraper filament that he is reselling and both the ABS and PLA work very well for me. With the ABS I have never encountered a problem and it's the best printing ABS I've had so far. For PLA I have no comparison since I bought my first PLA there so I'm sticking with thatby Ohmarinus - General
It looks like the MOSFET's metal parts are touching, if I'm not mistaken, this could cause an error to tell 'off' to the MOSFET it's touching. Don't know exactly how it works, but the MOSFET's look awfully close together near the outputs D8, D9 and D10!by Ohmarinus - General
Ah, so the reason would be to create as less of variables possible to mess-up the configuration. Sounds logical. On my other printer I have imitation Pololu's and they also were quite easy to setup. I don't know if they are DRV8825's but I guess not, since I can't find out anything on the sellers website about that. Over there they are called Pololu Stepsticks, but I found out they are actuallyby Ohmarinus - Controllers
Wat ziet mijn oog? Twee mooie sinterbronzen glijlagers? Hoe kom je daar aan? Ik ben op het moment aan het kijken waar ik ze het beste kan bestellen want de lagers die ik nu heb, ben ik toch niet zo heel tevreden over!by Ohmarinus - Dutch User Group - Archive
Kick away Slic3r 0.9.9, the integrated slic3r in Repetier is terrible, see my topic (and how to solve this in the 3rd message) here:by Ohmarinus - General
Ah yes, I have been creating numerous test objects for making the perfect push-fit, this is not the problem, however, I have read that PTFE lubricant would help with the bushings. It works very well for a while, but after hours of use the sliding becomes less good. I will try and see what happens when I remove the lubricant from the shafts! Also I have 12 backup bushings, but these are collareby Ohmarinus - General
Found a seller in the Netherlands, I don't know if this is what I need. I think I emailed them and they advised me to go for the PTFE lined bushings because they were specifically designed for chromed hardened rods: However, the Reprap community tells me the bronze bushings are better?by Ohmarinus - General
Aha, I didn't know PLA bushings only last a week!! Time to look into these Bronze bushings then. I have found a few sellers, but they are all outside EU and the shipping cost is simply too high for me I have found some nice versions though in the US: Sintered bronze (is this self-lubricating too?) Longer version sintered bronze Press-fit sleeve bushings Any recommendations?by Ohmarinus - General
Hi myk68, I made this: However, I am running a newer version which I haven't uploaded yet, will do today, as I promised this a lot of times alreadyby Ohmarinus - Printing
Hi all, I've never correctly set my Vref, but never had any problems on both of my printers. I was wondering, what the general experiences are with setting Vref, for me it has always been setting the Vref by hand, just feeling and listening to what the motors do and how the machine behaves. On the second machine I didn't even have to re-adjust anything, it all went right in one go. I ask this beby Ohmarinus - Controllers
I've also heard that the precision with a Delta is very high in the center, but decreased towards the edges of the print bed.by Ohmarinus - General
QuoteBeekeeper @Ohmarinus : the PLA we use has a lower coefficient of friction and is much smoother than ABS, maybe it's because of ABS's rubber component (the "B" in ABS). It's why lots of people used to make their smooth rod bushings out of PLA. Ah yes, I was looking for good experiences with PLA bushings, however, I haven't found the most excited topics about it. I still wonder if it's a goodby Ohmarinus - General
Slic3r keeps on messing up my items. How is this possible!? They should be solids. I'm ready to try something else, Cura maybe..?by Ohmarinus - Printing
Even googelen, kom je al snel op deze link, staat een goede discussie over:by Ohmarinus - Dutch User Group - Archive