Hi guys, I am sick and tired of the plastic extruders, so i want to buy a direct drive, it has to be 3mm however. I was thinking of the bulldog extruder, but it is way overpriced imo. So i was thinking of a clone, but i see many advertised as 1.75 mm and others as 1.75 and 3mm but with the same pictures provided. Is the only difference between the lite and the xl the geared motor?? i find thatby Govahnator - Reprappers
Hi guys, As the topic suggests i am looking for a prusa i3 frame kit with all the parts in metal ( without extruder, except if it is 3mm ) Is anyone aware of such a kit for sale? I am looking to convert my normal single sheet frame prusa i3 to an all metal, as i am sick and tired of printing replacement parts. Also i am looking for a 3mm direct drive extruder, the motor doesnt have to be includeby Govahnator - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, The jam you have is in your hot end, not your cold end. First of all, make sure you're hot end fan isn't blowing at the bottom of your heatbreak. But if i were you I would replace the heatbreak, i had exactly the same problem for days and now i placed a new heatbreak and the problem is fixed. I think it's of using pliers to much on these things. Good luckby Govahnator - Printing
Update: I dont want to speak to soon but i applied the thermal paste, i am printing for about 20 mins without issue, before it would have jammed like 20 times by now. If it is solved because of this i am very happy, i do find it strange that i didn't need te paste before.by Govahnator - Printing
its weird because i never had isssues with this in the past. I will give it a try, thanks for your reply. Did you have a similar issue before?by Govahnator - Printing
It looks like the filament isnt properly melting, wich is strange as the temperature is fine.by Govahnator - Printing
Hi reprappers, I have an issue with my v6 blocking at the bottom of the heatbreak. It always happens after extruding about 10mm. The blocked piece is always the same size and it looks like an unmelted piece of filament of 5 mm long. The nozzle is good tightened against the heatbreak as it even pushes the heatbreak a bit up after tightening. Help would be very welcome, i think the heaterblock isby Govahnator - Printing
Thanks for replying to my posts Giantkiller, I changed to marlin firmware, and it fixed the issue. Auto leveling is working perfect now. my prints seem smoother to Cheersby Govahnator - Reprappers
Can you explain why you think the current of the drivers has anything to do with this? I really dont see what u mean.by Govahnator - Reprappers
I am thinking the problem might be that i am using the probe on z min :/by Govahnator - Reprappers
Thanks for the reply, I am not sure what you mean with current setting on the polulu, do you mean the voltage? I managed to fix the gcode issue (so the issues in my first post are resolved) However when the print starts the nozzle is a few mm to high from the bed, i cant find the setting to change this . I have to mention that before installing this auto leveling, my prints also started higherby Govahnator - Reprappers
Hi, guys, I managed to get my autoleveling with inductive sensor working in repetier firmware, Only problem is that my nozzle is to far from the bed when print starts, i think i tried to change all possible settings, but it doesnt change anything to the nozzle height. Can anyone help me? must be simple but i cant find it.by Govahnator - Reprappers
Hi guys, I installed a inductive sensor on my prusa i3 and megatronics v3. The probe is working fine, the command g29/g32 is working fine. But i cant find much info about what gcode commands should be used when starting a print. I tried G28 ; y0 x0 z0 G29 ( also tried g32) The printer homes and probes, but the z axis goes really high before each probe. When the printing starts it prints reby Govahnator - Reprappers
Thanks for your reply, i dont really understand what you mean. If it wasn't as problem than my ramps should be fine right?by Govahnator - Printing
Hi guys, I had another issue, my fault this time. My nozzle touched the + of my heatedbed and shorted. Something is wrong with the ramps now, as the printer wont take commands anymore, the arduino still works fine. Is there anything i can do to fix it? i have spare ramps around, with different issue wich i can cannibalize. Thanksby Govahnator - Printing
It was at 500c for 1 minute atleast. As far as i tested, the thermistor is fine,wich is strange i know.by Govahnator - Printing
I can however inform you guys, that an e3d v6 hotend that went up to 500 degrees, still works fine afterwards.by Govahnator - Printing
I think if found the issue, i wanted to upload my modified firmware, but the communication.h ( repetier firmware) was missing, so i took the communication.h of my backup , afterwards i uploaded my modded firmware and this happend. I now uploaded my backup firmware, with the same communication.h file , and all is fine now. very strangeby Govahnator - Printing
I guys, Something really strange just happend, I was busy changing/uploading my firmware, i started repetier, i did not give a command to heat up, and my e3d hot end kept heating up to 500 degrees celcius ( correct reading!!!) Now everytime i plug in my power supply the hot end heats up, and keeps heating up, with no command given, ignoring the 250c max in the firmware! What the hell is going onby Govahnator - Printing
Hi guys, I just received my LJ12A3-4-Z/BY sensor, I am aware that 2 resistors are normally needed to get it to work. But i have read somewhere that some people have gotten theirs to work with just connecting to the 3 z minus pins, just like the normal z endstop. Is it ok to try this on my ramps 1.4?by Govahnator - Reprappers
So how can i test mine at just 5v? I dont have the resistors. I just got my LJ12A3-4-Z/BX delivered.by Govahnator - RAMPS Electronics
Hello fellow reprappers, I am planning to buy some "metal pla", pla mixed with particles of aluminium/copper/bronze. I have this feeling that it will not be stronger than normal pla, only much heavier. What do you guys think?by Govahnator - Reprappers
I have ordered a mendelmax 1.5 fellows, I have Nema 17's with integrated leadscrew's hanging around wich i will immediately us for the build. I am looking forward to building it Grtzzby Govahnator - General
Hi guys, I am waiting for my parts to arrive to build a mendelmax 1.5. Does anyone know why mendelmax.com is down, and is there another good alernative to get information about the 1.5? Grtzby Govahnator - General Mendel Topics
Quoteo_lampe Please donĀ“t tell us anything about your setup and keep the software you use as a secret, we LOVE wild guessing... -Olaf You are right o_lampe, i was in a bad mood and rushed the post, forgot those things :/ Prusa i3, Repetier firmware with repetier host, Slic3er and curaby Govahnator - Reprappers
Hi guys, I have a problem and i can't figure it out. If i print something the outside walls are not precise on top of each other, very ugly, but the inside walls seem to be fine. For example i print a cube with a hole = circle on the inside, the circle walls are precisely on top of each other, the walls of the cube on the outside however are very offset. With a normal cube same issue, insideby Govahnator - Reprappers
Hi guys, I am thinking of replacing my prusa i3, It worked very well when i first assembled it , but not for long, now a year later i am still spending money on it and i cant seem to get it to print like when it was new. So i am really fed up and not pleased with this printer at all. What printer would you recommend me? for about 1000 euro I was thinking of a mendelmax 3.0 , but it is 1500 doby Govahnator - General
Thanks for your post Ecky, I agree with you, if i didn't have any problems with the 5 mm rods i would not change them, The improvement is probably not worth the cash (not tested yet). But since i keep having trouble with these 5mm i am fed up and decided to get these.by Govahnator - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi Josh, At the moment i am printing the necessary parts for the leadscrews. Here is the link of the motors i boughtby Govahnator - Prusa i3 and variants