M999 is Gcode (the code that your computer uses to communicate with your printer and execute functions on your printer) that can be sent in the terminal window of repetier. I have attached a picture of the location of this. Here is a link to other G Code. I would also check you have the correct thermistors selected in your firmware and that everything is connected correctly. The endstop issue couby gmckee - Reprappers
The shafts on my motors are 22mm, body around 48mm. I am using Automation Technology steppers on my prusa i3, seem to do the job just fine.by gmckee - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
I have has some short due to the heatsinks. If you choose to use them you must make sure they are secure. I am running 1.5 amp motors and they don't even warm up the drivers so I didn't bother putting on a new heatsink. Good airflow can make all the difference.by gmckee - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Diagram for wiring It appears they are wired in parallel in this picture, improperly tuned steppers and overheating motors or drivers can also cause steps to skip.by gmckee - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Does this happen with everything you attempt to print or just this item? Are your printer settings correct within repetier? I would also try slicing with Slice3r and using pronterface as a host.by gmckee - Printing
I think that at the end of Thomas Sanladerer's LCD video he goes through the process of changing this to rotate in a normal direction. LCD videoby gmckee - General
1) If you are running with only a single extruder you can connect the fan to your D9 output if you are using a ramps board. You can then control fan speed in your printer host. 2) Have you tuned your stepper drivers according to the calibration guide? Is the motor not turning like it should, or is the hobbed bolt digging holes in the plastic and not forcing it into the extruder? What Temp are youby gmckee - Prusa i3 and variants
You need what is known as a "Smart Adapter" to Plug the LCD wires into the Ramps board and then enable your specific type in your firmware. The smart adapters are easily found on Ebay or if no adapter is made that takes the wires from the LCD to a Ramps, a LCD and adapter can be bought for as low as $10 USD on Ebay. Make sure that the adapter you get is compatible with Ramps as they vary shapes aby gmckee - Reprappers
For the time I have been using my printer I have been exclusively using red hatchbox pla. I ordered some blue pla and was wanting to know if there is any more to changing filament than pulling the old out of the extruder and putting the new in.by gmckee - General
I was just wanting to know what other thoughts and experiences were when they upgraded their hotends. What kind is being used and what kind of difference it has had in print quality. Currently I have a chinese j-heah currently and was wanting to know if an upgrade would be worth it.by gmckee - General
I am new to 3d printing and haven't experienced any jams with Hatchbox PLA.by gmckee - General
I started printing on painters tape, only problem is it is very hard to remove parts! Any tricks or methods to remove the print? I have an heated bed, but have tried painters tape unheated.by gmckee - Printing
What should I set for my layer height, first layer and successive after? I have a Prusa i3 with a .4mm nozzle. Micro stepping is set to 1/16th if that is relevant.by gmckee - Printing
When I home my printer how far should the tip of the nozzle be from the glass? Should it be touching or should it be more?by gmckee - General
I have a 12v 40mm fan I want to use to cool the stepper drivers on the my Ramps. How should I power the fan from Ramps 1.4? Or could I connect it directly to 12v power supply?by gmckee - General
Great video to explain marlin: Make sure you have the jumpers installed underneath stepper drivers for microstepping, doing without could cause motor issues, as well as incorrectly tuned drivers.by gmckee - General
I had similar problems with my Ramps, in case you havent done so look underneath the Ramps and Arduino to check for shorted pins. My Z axis had a tiny peice of solder bridging pins that resulted in sporadic movements. Also if you havent done so try a single axis at a time for motion to make sure your steppers are good. I had one of mine that would reboot the whole Arduino when I turned the electrby gmckee - RAMPS Electronics
I was thinking about purchasing a E3D lite 6 and was wondering if anyone has used it with their Reprap. I have a Prusa i3 rework and didn't know if anyone had used this hotend with a Wades Extruder. Did you have to modify the mounting hole to fit the hotend?by gmckee - General
I would be careful on getting your electronics on eBay. I purchased my Ramps 1.4 and Arduino Mega and both had to be replaced by my first print, not to mention the bad soldering on the ramps that was shorting out the Z axis. I ended up purchasing my new parts off of Amazon since you have other users reviews, as well as the benefit of quality customer service through Amazon for returns and such.by gmckee - General
Thank You for your response. Ill try your suggestions and see how it goes.by gmckee - Printing
First off, Thank You to Everyone here on the Forum for helping me get my printer working. And to the issues, when I try to print the 20mm solid cube test object the print does fine until about the 8th layer. At this point the print detaches from the bed and is moved by the printer head. So I guess my questin is what is the best way to get PLA to adhere to a heated bed? Also when the Z axis is hoby gmckee - Printing
I am using ramps 1.4 with a single extruder. How could I switch to use D9 for the extruder and use another power source (not on ramps 1.4) for extruder fan, or omit the fan all together?by gmckee - General
My hotend transistor broke. This is the only one I can find locally as I need it today. Link: Data Sheet:by gmckee - General
Elaborating on part 3, the pins snapped off of the board. Where should I purchase a new MOSFET?by gmckee - General
Ok, when I tilted the MOSFET closest to the extruder motor driver the led came on and the power supply came on and began drawing power. It quickly began heating up. I guess I will order new MOSFETS just in case. For your questions. Before tilt 1) No 2)12v 3)5v near outside, 0 near fuses After tilt 1)Yes 2)12 v 3)My hotend MOSFET pins detachedby gmckee - General
I'll have to check when I get done with school Today.by gmckee - General
I may have put this topic in the wrong place and I apologize but I am having hotend issues. When I go to heat the hotend up in preparation for printing the temperature remains the same. Reading the output voltage on the Ramps 1.4 is showing 0 volts when the hotend is turned on. All motor, fan, and heated bed are working fine. I am really looking forward to my first print, and this is my last issuby gmckee - General
When I home the axis they move to the correct locations, x-max, y-min z-min. However when I try to manually control the printer the axis show correct values, but the x and y motors spin towards the end stops instead of moving back from them. For example I move my x-axis from 205 mm (Home) to 180mm it pushes up against the end stops until it can no longer travels and begins grinding. I have attachby gmckee - Prusa i3 and variants