2 things. Check for binding of the movements with the steppers off. Movement should be smooth with no hanging or snags. Then check the voltages of your step sticks. Plenty of good videos on youtube to do this. Also be sure to check or know the current rating of your steppers. I use small ones so my values are lower than most folks.by orbitalair - Reprappers
Run a retract/stringing test, these types like a short retract, mine is set to about 2mm, NOT the default 4.5mm Temp, filament type, retract distance and retract speed play a factor. Also preload may be a factor if you are using a newer slicer. Suitable working numbers will be in a narrow band.by orbitalair - General
There should be a 'save settings' menu item somewhere. Please find a video on configuring firmware. You dont flash *.h files to the controller. OR please dont use 'H' to mean hex files., cause you confuse the hell out of me. Also be aware that if a system uses eeprom, and you rebuild/reinstall a hex firmware, you need to reinitialize the eeprom, there should be a menu item for this too. Otherby orbitalair - Printing
You did not say your country. For most stuff I use FolgerTech in the USA. They are the only place I found in the USA that has chromed rods at low prices. I wish they had the same prices on ramps and megas. They now carry small screws in 100 packs. I got a big order of screws from china last year, but when I need more I'll likely get them at FT.by orbitalair - General
I dont recall promoting this design as superior to anything, except cost maybe. Well, most people here are going to be hobbiests, so I dont think many are interested in the 'best', 'be-all-end-all' solutions. Sure a corexy is rigid. Some here spent $2000US on such systems that are IMO overly complex to me, but suit their aims. I personally have learned a lot with this smartrap. I think youby orbitalair - Developers
Well if you had written up a lessons learned about the smartrap design and posted it I could have avoided learning anything. Thanks for being a positive influence in a dying community. Be sure and tell Josef Prusa his system is idiotic.by orbitalair - Developers
Is there a debug mode? Or do I have to get a whole python dev environment loaded? USB locks are probably a driver problem, but what if win7 pro says it has the latest driver? USB nonresponse causes me to have to restart the app, that where the long start time sucks. I'll head over to cura with some real start times this weekend. Curious sidenote; anyone know why the java host reprap slicer wasby orbitalair - General
Does it still take 3 minutes to load, and fraks up every 3rd usb print? Also does it still wipe out all your settings that take 30 minutes to setup? Are these 'features' that other people asked for, or just a bonus? I'm still using 14.x, loads in 4 seconds, functions consistently.by orbitalair - General
They should have never sent those parts, they are substandard. Anyone who knows anything about reprap machines knows those are horrible prints. I think I would politely ask for much better replacement parts be sent to me.by orbitalair - General
Thanks all for being curious and reading the posts ! Over 1000 reads now. I am still using my SmartRapMini2 for PLA prints. The extruder mod is still an open issue. I may also revise the extruder base to allow for some flexible filament I got. Flexi will work, if you can feed it without it bubbling back out. I did finally get frustrated with the kevlar line, and swapped in the GT2 belt addoby orbitalair - Developers
Hi, The SmartRap Mini is kinda portable. Pull the Xbase off the Z rods, remove the Z rods and threaded rod, this packs it down to about 12x14x6 inches or so. Not a briefcase, but a pretty small box. Toss in powersupply brick and spool.by orbitalair - Reprappers
Dumb question. Is it REALLY retracting? Cause this is the problem I was having, but my bowden extruder is 3d printed and was flexing, so it wasn't really extruding. E3Dv6 clones prefer small retracts too, like 1.5-2.5mm, so you have to run the temp as low as you can within those bounds to prevent dripping, and jams.by orbitalair - Reprappers
Well, I've poked around, there does not seem to be a definitive forum anywhere. Fragmentation, love it eh? Also it seems that most people buy a chinese kit, or a uber expensive commercial printer. Few seem to want to build one from scratch or want to know how it all works. PS the survey only had like 3 pretty general questions about 3d printers, the rest was general info that FaceBook sells.by orbitalair - General
If the bed and the hotend "do not heat up" theres your clue. Wiring ok to bed? Is the bed physically hot or cold when you touch it? If its HOT, but reports room temp, your temp sensor is bad, OR the wiring is broken somewhere. If its COLD, then the 12v side of life on your board is not working. Maybe the fuses are blown? IIRC thats a Geeetech board. I think it has replaceable fuses. Youby orbitalair - General
Reread your message from my seat. We need more details and not a wall of text either. What works? LCD comes on? Does it try to heat? Error codes? Autohome work? 12/24v out of powersupply?? Plugged in? Circuit breaker tripped? Broken wire?by orbitalair - General
3D Solutech. Made in the USA Pick whatever color is at $17.99 or whatever. Color supply goes in and out, and the price will vary. The real orange is a bright color. The real white is a great bright white color.by orbitalair - General
FolgerTech.com I can tell you that thier 6mm and 8mm rods and bearings function well together. Bearings will need a good cleaning first tho, they tend to be full of grit. 5 minutes agitation in mineral spirits cleans them right up. The chrome rods are very hard indeed, had to use a grinder tool as said previously.by orbitalair - General
Uh, how hot are you running and what material? I mean I see layer lines in my prints, yours appears completely fused together. You say extrusion temp changes nothing. Does it do this on a standard calibration cube? I only ask because then its apples to apples, someone may recognize the problem cause we know what its supposed to look like.by orbitalair - Printing
Hey, you definitely want to see this then, Not a drill bit, this is more of an engineered solution.by orbitalair - Developers
You came the problem the opposite of me. I was convinced it was a dragging bearing, in my case lowering the jerk and accell solved my problems. But you can try this. unhook your drive components and try try moving the yaxis by hand, feeling for any movement that feels 'gritty'. This is your bearings doing a jitter. My guess is that you see it on larger prints because the jitter/drag is at thby orbitalair - Reprappers
Followed from your other thread. FolgerTech has better prices. I think linear rails are way overkill. Go watch Tech2C corexy build on youtube. 10-12mm rods are perfectly fine for positioning molten plastic threads. I'd use the carbon fiber tubes like he did. But I am a RepRap minimalist anyways, see SmartRap Mini 2, the scary printer. Dunno rumba, Duet can run all that stuff from what I reby orbitalair - CoreXY Machines
Your nozzle is too high. Recalibrate the nozzle Z=0 to be 1 sheet of paper thickness with some drag off the plate. I seriously doubt you get good objects with a 0.4mm nozzle at 0.4mm layer height, the layers are barely sticking to each other.by orbitalair - Printing
Some small revisions added to the Thingiverse site. I found some errors as I printed out a few kit parts. Plastic Parts for sale as a kit. Screw Packs for sale as a kit. See web page. Webpage Thingiverse TODO: Assembly and tuning video Better assembly doc/pdf, I dislike the slow loading webpage. Mods for better parts that assemble without so many screws. Mods for extruder bearing holder (stby orbitalair - Developers
I can test one. My plate is 160x200mm I do not have a heated bed, so PLA usage only. I have a website here, , for the SmartRap Mini 2 revival. Which I can post pics to. I need to learn to make videos since all the cool kids want to watch vids and not read manuals. hehe.by orbitalair - General
Oops, yes 1.75mm filament, about 1/3 of a 1kg roll. apologies for being inaccurate. I have had a failure in the filament tensioner using PLA, over several months, it did crack. However there could be a few reasons for that, key being maybe poor layer adhesion. Another is likely poor part design, it needs work for other reasons, I'll address it then. I would print parts for a small profit, sby orbitalair - General
I checked my SmartRap Mini 2 parts costs using VooDooMfg in NYC, they wanted $75+sh for PLA. It takes me about 1/3 of a 2kg roll (about 100m??), and about 23hrs to print a full set. What do you guys think of that? Too high? Reasonable?by orbitalair - General
My SmartRap Mini 2 reincarnation is defaulted to a 160mmx200mm size. Tho 220mmx220mm is not unreasonable. BUT I really need a super affordable solution for the design.by orbitalair - General
Fresh filament? I noticed delams on a old opened spool of abs which pops some. I had never noticed delams at layers before, and nothing else on the printer changed. Maybe it dry it out some first?by orbitalair - Printing
Any news on a completed build? What issues did you run into?by orbitalair - Developers
Looks like a steal at that price. Used one I just looked up was $800US. Looks like a CoreXY ? I'd just toss a ramps in there (cause thats what I have), recode the firmware and try it. What kind of extruder setup is in there?by orbitalair - General