Show all posts by user

Re: Display 12864 didn't working MKS GEN V1.4 - 6 years ago

I don't have a Gen 1.4, but I do have a Gen L, and on the Gen L the LCD connectors are backwords. I took a knife and cut off the plastic guide on the ribbon cables and turned them 180 degrees and that fixed the issue.

by Pheneeny - General

Re: Questions about Anet A8 controller and Marlin - 6 years ago

Quotedlc60 QuotePheneeny Quotedlc60 QuotePheneeny That's a cool looking setup. Do you have a source for the files? The carriage looks like my design but I've never seen the belted extruder before. The computer I printed it from is in storage while the basement is being finished and I have searched and searched for the creator but been unable to find him/her. What is you your design like? Maybe

by Pheneeny - Reprappers

Re: Questions about Anet A8 controller and Marlin - 6 years ago

Quotedlc60 QuotePheneeny That's a cool looking setup. Do you have a source for the files? The carriage looks like my design but I've never seen the belted extruder before. The computer I printed it from is in storage while the basement is being finished and I have searched and searched for the creator but been unable to find him/her. What is you your design like? Maybe it is yours! The extrud

by Pheneeny - Reprappers

Re: Questions about Anet A8 controller and Marlin - 6 years ago

That's a cool looking setup. Do you have a source for the files? The carriage looks like my design but I've never seen the belted extruder before.

by Pheneeny - Reprappers

Re: Questions about Anet A8 controller and Marlin - 6 years ago

I don't know about the digipots, but everything else is handled in Configuration.h and configuration_adv.h. Just make sure that you don't have a probe option enabled if you don't have a probe on the machine. You can also set your home position in the configuration.h file.

by Pheneeny - Reprappers

Re: Filament senors. - 6 years ago

QuoteDjDemonD No one has cracked this yet as filament isn't necessarily round. You'd need a sensor that can detect cross sectional area and movement. I think two sets of caliper like sensors measuring in opposite directions would give a good enough estimate of the volume of the filament to accomplish this. I'm not an electrical engineer, so I don't know if those type of sensors are available fo

by Pheneeny - General

Re: Filament senors. - 6 years ago

It's probably a bit much, but I'd really like a sensor that detects jams and filament diameter and adjusts the flow rate accordingly.

by Pheneeny - General

Re: Multi-filament users?? - 6 years ago

I have a chimera with two volcano blocks, but I've never used it for a multimaterial print. I got the Chimera to be able to have two different sized nozzles without having to change them. So I run a 0.6mm nozzle and a 1.0mm nozzle and switch between them depending on how big the part I'm printing is and how much detail I need.

by Pheneeny - General

Re: RAMPS 1.4.2 fork: RD3D v1.0 (6 steppers, 24v, Due) - 6 years ago

Quotelkcl QuoteVDX ... found a related (German) Thread about - ... it's real - it really does happen. my favourite one i heard about was a 2.5in IDE drive inside a 3.5in SATA case. i mean... this is a country where they take cement powder, put it into "milk powder" containers and *sell it to their own citizens*, killing some of them in the process. for the most part cement powder *is* actual

by Pheneeny - RAMPS Electronics

Re: Which filament for a newbie.. - 6 years ago

I think PLA is definitely the easiest, much easier than even PETG. Just buy a roll of plain hatchbox PLA(No glow in the dark or other fillings) off Amazon to start with. I started with Blue Tape, which works ok but needs to be changed often. PEI is the best overall build surface material IMO

by Pheneeny - General

Re: 3D Touch / BL Touch not working - 6 years ago

I know you have given up on this, but I thought I would share. I just had a very similar battle with the 3DTouch not poweing on or responding to commands, and after a while I realized that my cheap RAMPS board wasn't delivering 5v to the servo pins

by Pheneeny - General

Re: New MKS SBASE Smoothieware-compatible board from China - 6 years ago

QuoteMechaBits why are people buying 1.3 with 1.4 out there? Where are you seeing a 1.4 version? I only see 1.3. The seller was on here talking about a new version replacing the DRV drivers with something else, but it looks like they scrapped that plan.

by Pheneeny - Controllers

Re: Ramp 1.4-Dual Extruder-Heatbed, Plug in Colling Fan? - 7 years ago

Why do you have the extruder fans plugged into the fan extender? You should just run 12v straight from the power supply to the extruder fans, then use the fan controller for the part cooling fan. The part cooling fan needs to be controlled, but it's fine if the extruder fans are on all of the time.

by Pheneeny - Reprappers

Re: heatbed question - 7 years ago

The problem isn't the actual Mosfet, but the terminal blocks you are melting can't handle the current. An external Mosfet allows you to bypass running the high current through the board, avoiding the terminal blocks that can't handle it.

by Pheneeny - Prusa i3 and variants

Re: About to buy Anet A8 - 7 years ago

Just grab the latest of both.

by Pheneeny - General

Re: About to buy Anet A8 - 7 years ago

I would recommend PLA filament for your first prints, I find it the easiest to print, it prints at a low temperature and isn't fussy. The Anet A8 comes with an old version of Cura for slicing, but you can use the newest version just fine. I would recommend installing Skynet3D firmware and enabling the thermal protections. These are disabled in the default firmware.

by Pheneeny - General

Re: Re-ARM from Panucatt - 7 years ago

Quotenebbian QuotePheneeny Are you guys having any issues with PID tuning and hotend temperature control? I have a genuine e3d V6, and on Marlin my hotend temperature control was spot on. On Smoothie, after running Autotune the same way I did on Marlin, I'm having pretty bad temp control. On initial heatup, the temperature always overshoots by 10-12 degrees, then takes a few minutes to come back

by Pheneeny - Controllers

Re: Re-ARM from Panucatt - 7 years ago

Are you guys having any issues with PID tuning and hotend temperature control? I have a genuine e3d V6, and on Marlin my hotend temperature control was spot on. On Smoothie, after running Autotune the same way I did on Marlin, I'm having pretty bad temp control. On initial heatup, the temperature always overshoots by 10-12 degrees, then takes a few minutes to come back down. Then after the first

by Pheneeny - Controllers

Re: External Mosfet boards actually quite good! - 7 years ago

Quotedc42 Those boards are in effect un-encapsulated 5-terminal SSRs. Unlike normal 4-terminal SSRs, the gate voltage seen by the mosfet may be the full supply voltage if the board doesn't include components to limit it, and since many power MOSFETs have a gate voltage rating of 20V this could make operation on 24V inadvisable. The turn-off time may be quite slow, in which case they are likely to

by Pheneeny - General

Re: External Mosfet boards actually quite good! - 7 years ago

I just got one of these recently too. I got a BIQU from Amazon. Just a warning for others, the first one I got, the actual mosfet wasn't soldered to the board. I exchanged it and the second one works really well, although I haven't put it to a lot of use yet.

by Pheneeny - General

Re: Lulzbot Taz 6 - Prusa I3 in disguise? - 7 years ago

I think it's not people so much as institutions or small businesses that pay those prices for the warranty and support that comes with it. These groups don't want to tinker, build, or fix problems. Think schools, libraries, etc. I would be surprised if there are many pure hobbyists purchasing their machines, I don't think that is their target demographic.

by Pheneeny - General

Re: MINTEMP error with new silicone bed install, runaway heating - 7 years ago

I think o_lampe is correct, and you are dealing with two separate issues here. You have your bed thermistor connected to T1, and the LCD shows the controller is reading a bed temp of 20C, so it looks like that is correct. You have a min temp error, and your LCD shows the hot end has a temp is 0C, which is where your problem is. So something isn't right with your hot end thermistor, it appears you

by Pheneeny - Controllers

Re: PETG fumes/irritation? - 7 years ago

I have a externally venting setup that I like a lot. At the top of my enclosure I have an AC powered 120mm fan running into an aluminum flexible drier vent hose. From there it runs into a draft blocking coupler that is attached to an MDF board. The MDF board is cut to fit in the open window sill, and is only about 6" wide with weather stripping on the side. Whenever I'm printing, I slide the w

by Pheneeny - General

Re: New Power Supply dilemma - 7 years ago

Are all of your V+ and ground terminals on your power supply used up? There isn't anything special about the third terminals, you can connect the power to any V+ terminal, and the ground to any terminal labeled COM.

by Pheneeny - General

Re: PETG for Prusa i3 reworked - 7 years ago

I believe polycarbonate can come out pretty clear, but that takes a lot of heat to print.

by Pheneeny - Reprappers

Re: Re-ARM from Panucatt - 7 years ago

I have not tried using the SD card on the LCD, I've just been mounting the on board SD card in Octoprint and copying files that way.

by Pheneeny - Controllers

Re: Re-ARM from Panucatt - 7 years ago

DjDemonD, you are using the Ramps fan extender successfully? It doesn't have an issue running with the 3.3v instead of 5v?

by Pheneeny - Controllers

Re: Re-Arm, any experiences? - 7 years ago

I have the graphical LCD, the Ethernet module, and octopi setup right now. Last night I spent a bunch of time hammering around some Octoprint scripts and I think I've found the optimal solution for sending prints to the Re-Arm. Transferring files over Ethernet or over serial to the SD card is really slow, but you can mount the SD card as a USB drive on a host computer, and transferring files to

by Pheneeny - General

Re: CoreXY & 0.9° steppers too much for 8bit ? - 7 years ago

Finally got up and running with the Re-Arm and Smoothies are, and the stuttering is gone. So definitely hitting a speed wall with Marlin.

by Pheneeny - CoreXY Machines

Re: anet a8 measurements needed - 7 years ago

Mine is 418.5mm tall to the bottom of the top acrylic piece. The top acrylic piece is another 7.8 mm thick, which the side panel has a tab that goes through it to be even with the top. The side panel is 55mm deep at the top and about 135 mm deep at the bottom. The side panel is 7.8 mm thick. Hope that gives you what you need.

by Pheneeny - General