Is the "nozzle" hitting a bed leveling screw? Generally the bed leveling screws are outside of the printing area and they are usually not inside of the actual heated bed (print zone) area. If they are inside your print area currently, then you need to adjust your limit switches and possibly your settings in Marin so that home and the printable area does not include the leveling screws. With somby SumDude - General
Nice job, especially getting rid of the excess mass! I'm surprised at you using Teflon, PTFE (Teflon) has terrible creep properties so you can expect the screws to loosen. If you have / had some UHMW or POM available, that would have been a lot better choice in this situation. I'm sure you will get it all fixed up.by SumDude - Look what I made!
I don't know what is the best but the easiest for the average person is to build on a flat level surface checking that your Y rods are level and that your print surface is flat and level. Then just use your level to check that the Z rods are vertical (most levels measure vertical also) and then check that the X rods are level. Keeping everything flat, level and perpendicular to each other can beby SumDude - Prusa i3 and variants
Sharp bends or mechanically stressed spots in the wire will cause it to heat up more than the rest of the wire. Cheap / poor quality wire that has carbon/ inclusions will also cause hot spots. I gave up on nichrome because of twists in the wire when spooling and de-spooling and the mechanical stresses caused by handling. I have been "playing" with kanthal wire not that it is any better in thoseby SumDude - General
You might look in this part of the forum and see what is the current popular software 3D Design Tools Then there is also http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Software#2D_and_3D_CAD_softwareby SumDude - Reprappers
Most photographic film manufactured since about 1960 is generally a form of polyester, so in theory you should be able to turn it into filament. You may run into problems with the photographic emulsion on the film.by SumDude - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Sure they can, here are some examples: Poor Mans Printer $60 printerby SumDude - Developers
It appears that you would occasionally rotate the smooth rod and the LM8UU bearing slightly during your demonstration. Any rotation with a linear bearing is a big "NO-NO", you can damage one with just slight rotation., linear bearings are intended for linear motion only, no rotation. As for the noise I agree with you completely, you will get a much quieter machine with bushings than linear beariby SumDude - Mechanics
Unless you want to be on the bleeding edge of development, now is a great time to get involved. I've been using 3d printers for about 20 years and only now am I somewhat interested in building a printer for home use. Things are more stable, the "try this, oops, that don't work" hit or miss mentality has started to go away and what we are left with is a somewhat defined road map of what to buy anby SumDude - General
I believe that would be a 8mm diameter by 20mm long piece of threaded shaft. It does not need to be threaded, if you have some left over 8mm smooth rod it would work just as well.by SumDude - Reprappers
Normally black plastic is colored with carbon black which provides some UV protection. I would imagine that the best protection against UV would be a UV resistant paint applied to the parts, if your application would allow the additional coating.by SumDude - General
The original Ultimaker used a trapezoidal thread TR 8×8(P2) RH DIN 103 Tol. 7e made from C15 steel according to the drawings and bill of materials they have published. When I checked the bill of materials for the Ultimaker 2 the same part number (B1159) is called out for the motor / lead screw.by SumDude - Reprappers
You may want to look at http://reprap.org/wiki/R_360 also.by SumDude - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
The original file is available at https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3/blob/master/old_single_plate/src/frame/6mm/Prusa3ALU-FREZOVANY-v4.dxf-old but you need to edit the file extension removing the ".old". but there is a note to use a newer updated file at https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3-vanilla/blob/master/src/alu-frame.dxf Hope this helps.by SumDude - General Mendel Topics
Great job! Better be careful he might be wanting a new one for each meeting - Darth Vader, Millennium Falcon, a light saber with working laser (LED) the list could be almost endless. Have fun with this and with the Scouts.by SumDude - Look what I made!
QuoteKurzaa Quotetmorris9One method that has not changed for prior art is to mail specs, plans, drawings and such to yourself as certified mail and never open it. If sealed they can be used in court as proof of prior art. Of course this must be done in advance and should contain the same full information as a patent does, just a vague description won't cut it. I was thinking of something along thby SumDude - General
Do you mean a cable drive system like used on the Tantillus. You might want to look at the catagory "Drive Trains" for examples of other methods of movement.by SumDude - General
Hopefully I'm not misunderstanding but have you looked into the technology and materials used in vapor phase reflow soldering? Using a similar setup you should be able to print a tin based alloy that has a melt temperature just a bit higher than the vapor temperature but you would need to insulate the print nozzle to keep it hot enough to to keep the tin alloy flowing. There are several other fby SumDude - General