thinking of a generation 7 1.4.1 b differences wanted 2 extruder one hot end support (a Bowden-y design). servo support for mechanical z-probe. two fan headers one always on one switched and support for reprap discount smart display with sd card. would also prefer to breakout the i2c header for support for realtime clock if it's ever supported in marlin and possibly other things. any of youby terramir - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
The old motors I dunno there really old when I got them no specs available. But they ran in series for like 6 years . New ones 2A 45 Ncm 64 oz-in 2.2V 1.1ohms 2.6mH well should I run those in Series or parallel. terramirby terramir - General Mendel Topics
Okies, My motors keep stalling out they are wired in series Swapped the carrier adjusted the pot to 0.4v It should work, greased the screws they turn freely When the motors are off. All I can thing is one of em or both are dying What you guys think swap motors run tests again??? Or is there something else I can try first the axis stall sometimes At different rates and then my x-axis is slantby terramir - General Mendel Topics
DRV8825 carriers are getting cheap, now my question is is there a reason why they would not work with a gen7 1.3.1 board and if so what would be the hack around it in short would it be possible to use those steppers? terramirby terramir - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Quotereifsnyderb In 2018 we shouldn't have hot-end jams. It's really sad. Chinese clones have set 3d printer hot-ends back ten years. that might partially be in the tube not being polished, but we actually talked about this a long time ago the need for a machined key where plastic cannot enter, if you look at the e3d pictures on their website for the nozzle and the tube you see that there is aby terramir - General
Yeah I bought some grit polish of differing grits to fix that, pipe cleaner and elbow juiceshould fix that. But even on photos from e3d I saw that the heat break and the nozzle Have that conical relief machined in even if the flat surfaces 100% match This is a space while on the hot end of things I theorized would jam terramirby terramir - General
terramir here, Can't find a hotend forum I could almost swear there used to be one. My question is the following, anyone have jamming issues, with The e3d v6 or clones there if. Specifically jamming in the transition from the stainless steel to brass transition? I have not used the clones yet I got but there seems to be a tapering on both the nozzle and heatbrake that would allow for a slight eby terramir - General
I'm working on re-writing my toaster oven reflow code. Would like to use the 16x over sampling code from marlin. But honestly I cannot find the routine and where the math is done. Would like to be able to check temp, and have it spit back the Temperature. I looked at the application notes i dun quite understand what they mean by right shifting So I'd like to copy and paste the retrieve and mathby terramir - Firmware - Marlin
I am having severe problems with slic3r 1.29 freezing up and the newest beta as of yesterdayhas the same problems windows 10 x64. seems like the development team has not fixed the problems there yet. any insights terramirby terramir - Slic3r
12V elements like this should transition current around 25A max for the 100w 12v ones half for the 50w ones. regular current should be about 8.34 and 4.16 respectively. The mosfet I choose is one we used for the heated bed Without needing a sink. Hmmm max specs for this one is like 30v 78A :-) I wonder if I should use the 180 ohm someone mentioned to ensure the mosfets dun get toasty. terramirby terramir - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Hmmm my German is like hmmm last time in Germany was like 94 lol klemme2pol must be a 2 pin connector Or terminal. Seems my memory wants to translate it as clamp. I used to speak German like a German thanks to Herr rektor telling my mother to only speak German with me when I came to germany as a 9 yr old.but I am aus Der uebung. For those that are german challenged einzel under gesamtStrome transby terramir - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Megahertz range..... LoL more like less than 0.5 hertz max and in the ideal more like 0.1-0.001 Hz range. With the loads I'll be switching total load 600 W nominal I.e 4 100 w heating elements and 4 50W element (ceramic in aluminum) each might draw up to 3x that power while cold which is why I will be switching them staggered until they reach like 60c this is an extermination gadget I'm buildingby terramir - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
The specs of the "arduino chip" atmel either 644p or 1284p allow for a max sink of 40mA and since the combined supply is 200mA the max current for all pins should be around 200 mA using a 10 ohm resistor allows for a current of 500mA @5v while in version 1.3.1 the resistors signaling the mosfet were 1k ohm resistors which limit the current for signaling to 5 mA was this an error or is there an inby terramir - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
OK, here's the scenario; use the 3D printer to print the plastic housing, basically it's an air heating machine. use a 12ft 4inch (~100mm) drying hose to suck the hot air back in. use those aluminum bubble sun blockers for the car (sew em or velcro them together as a tented area) like around the bed. use an arduino to switch the heating elements on and off. use temp sensors like the one in the bby terramir - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
I seen a video on the kossel using a lever to actuate the leveling switch and to deactivate the same, What I am thinking is this could be accomplished on almost All 3d printers like the prusa2/3 Mendelmax etc. All that would be needed are two fixed points to enable/ disable the z-probe. Can some people help because I cannot find much documentation on the switch and code. terramirby terramir - General
My planned modifications: Fully enclosed print area with door, as well as a fan duct with tubing to a water bubbler for toxic filtration. platform fan for pla (door open for PLA). enclosed motor area with ventilation / cooling, Electronics and display. Custom designed and printed beating sleeve/ flange. Custom printed parts to deploy And retract a z height thing based on kossel. Just having theby terramir - Delta Machines
my remaining budget is well drill rods well the few drill rods I might need to add from the supply I got laying around. so maybe like three 15 bucks ;-) and maybe a few dollars more. I might even go the PLA bushing and moly grease route if I can't find lm8uu's laying around that's how broke I am now. might have to order a carbon fiber 4mm solid rod to extend the 180mm and the traxxas to the righby terramir - Delta Machines
QuoteGroupB BTW delta arm shouldn't not be "about X mm" but a precise length. Well I will build a rig I do have a prusa, to print parts for a jig. I have not put the arms together yet, considering actually to go to a hobby shop and get some inner carbon fiber tube 4mm diameter to connect the traxxas joints and just make it the right length with some extending ;-) but I'll read up on the arm leby terramir - Delta Machines
I need certain basic info, in order to modify from there. I can find partial plans, but I don't want to frak up, because materials and financial resources are scarce. I have drill rod and virtually everything needed To finish this project the way I envision it. I want an enclosed printer for larger ABS prints. And the Rostock would be optimal to enclose with cooling below. But I need certain datby terramir - Delta Machines
Ok I just discovered a screwup on my part, trying to build a Rostock, and well I discovered the original arms are like 250 mm long but from joint center to joint center these will be about 212 mm 180 carbon fiber plus Traxxas 5347 is this for a different printer and how would I have to modify the original design to make this work. Also how does the arm length effect the printer mechanics, like prby terramir - Delta Machines
Still need help with this it seems like the Rostock, is highly depreciated on the web :-( . I dunno but johann seems to have erradicated the original build logs and instructions in favor of the kossel. Honestly I want to build a working printer as cheaply as possible with the parts I already have but without those build logs and instructions it is going to be difficult to say the least. HELP HELPby terramir - Delta Machines
terramir here, okies my on again off again gf has been bugging me for years to build her a 3d printer, I have a prusa 2 working so I can print parts for her. have wood so I can make a frame well I want it to be enclosed we all know what open designs do to abs warping wise. i bought 180 mm carbon fiber rods and I got the traxxas joints here somewhere. I have electronics laying around. would haveby terramir - Delta Machines
ok, I understand the dangers involved so do I understand ohm's law. ni-chrome wire has a tendency to increase in resistance as the temperature rises. Been focusing on getting my prius back on the road, so I have not been able to dedicate much time to this project, but I know the following . A. as long as the insulation losses in W is smaller than the power provided in W, as long as the temperatby terramir - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
I have some 32 gauge ni-chrome wire, but I really can't just be testing all willy-nilly, I want to design this right. that means calculating what lengths and gauges to use In parallel at 12 and 5V. I know there should be formulae floating around here, and I also know that coiled lengths support about 1/2 the current due to induction choke kind of phenomenon. Anyone here got some links for the fby terramir - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Now where do I get this stuff in California, I looked on the web besides ebay not many options that Don't require buying a ton of it very expensive for a common chemical honestly. Although I dunno how much I'll need either. Well still need input on gauge vs voltage vs temperature terramirby terramir - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
How would I do this with wood/ply cut the pieces I need to hold the wires then soak it in a water glass mixture or should I just spray the stuff on the surfaces that will be holding the wires? terramirby terramir - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
What is mica I have heard of the stuff ? And where would I get it? terramir Although I really dun want the wires that hot so when do I get sodium silicateby terramir - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Want to build an air heater that will be powered by a pc power supply and will use both the 5V and 12V rails . The air will need to be heated to no more than 55C actually I could probably get away with 49C (120F) I want to use an arduino chip 328p maybe. The air will be circulated and returned to the heater via dryer duct. and then heated again. I can't have the heated Air exceed 55C because theby terramir - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Some things in that post are not clear, what is a living hinge. Second you said you cut it from sheets intended for laser cutting, was kind of supply store am I looking for? terramirby terramir - Mendel90
I got the hit by reading up that some people used the strips used to pack crates but honestly these days the white stuff is not used very often anymore I looked through the whole home depot at there pallets of stuff and the best I found and snagged was like maybe 18-22mm wide. So does anyone have any hints for me. Not much money available these days so try to focus on hints that can be found faiby terramir - Mendel90