Thanks downloaded and installed. Can't fully test as I now have an electrical/electronics fault that's going to take a couple of days to fix, whilst I wait for some spares.by Tocsin - Firmware - Marlin
Exactly the issues I'm having. and I can't seem to find an earlier version of the arduino ide to go back to.by Tocsin - Firmware - Marlin
On my latest print, which is basically a simple cylinder, an odd blob has appeared. I'm using an i3 with PLA 1.75mm, 0.4mm nozzle printing at 185 C. Layer height is 0.25. Printer has recently had calibration checked and all appears fine. Cylinder wall varies between 1.37 and 1.45 in thickness. The blob is 2.0mm diameter, and penetrates right through the wall. It is well clear of the layer transitby Tocsin - Printing
I've used lithium grease, and Molybdenum disulfide with success.by Tocsin - Printing
Everything now seems fine after I changed jerk from 20mm to 5mm. Now I have another issue, but I'll raise it as a new topic. Thanks for advice, I managed 5 prints with no problems, all of which had had problems before.by Tocsin - Printing
Most of the time my Prusa i3 behaves itself. Occasionally it jumps by 2.5-5 mm part the way through a print, only on the Y axis. When it does so there is a sound as though the belt is slipping. In fact this is what I think is happening. I reduced the frequency of this occurring by improving the belt alignment - the original stepper mount was weak and broke very early on IO replaced it with a steeby Tocsin - Printing
Had a similar issue, and yes it seems it was caused by just the problem ggherbaz suggests. Solved by making sure that processor intensive software was not run at the same time. Finally solved by resurrecting an old pc, and dedicating it for printer and related use.by Tocsin - Printing
Sorted. Not sure how the effect occurred, but realised the only significant change I'd made was the filament, from white pla to what was supposed to be coffee pla. I tried extruding into thin air, it was slow and the extruder drive was labouring. I raised the temperature from my usual 205 in steps of 5 degrees, and I didn't get good extrusion until I got to 230. There was no smell, so I guess itby Tocsin - Printing
My printer has started doing something really weird. X & Y movements seem correct, but rather than laying down layers, its producing an effect like a carpet with lots of short (1-3mm) vertical thin fibres, look like a tufted carpet or a crewcut hairdo. Any ideas? It started about 5 layers into one print now its happened in a couple of subsequent prints.by Tocsin - Printing
Latest Insider update fixed my USB problems, only upgraded yesterday.by Tocsin - Reprappers
Which LCD board do you use? Reversing the leads doesn't always cause a problem with displays, I've done it several times. On the board somewhere should be a pot to adjust contrast, some of them are very critical because the manufacturer uses too high a value, rather than a lower value and a resistor, or a multi-turn pot. Try adjusting it very slowly. If this doesn't work, you may of course have dby Tocsin - Printing
I had no joy with blue tape or hairspray. The best I found was a cheap gluestick from Tiger Stores in the UK (they're a Danish company). It's called simply "STICKY" and is intended for kids. I don't clean it off after every print, simply scrape it gently with a blade at right angles to the surface. When it starts to look a bit rough it washes off with cold water. I don't use autolevel, just a douby Tocsin - Printing
Seems it may have been down to trying to print at too high a resolution. I've just done a 3.5 hour print at 0.2mm with no issues. Longest print I've ever completed!by Tocsin - Printing
The last few prints I have attempted have aborted with MINTEMP reports. The software hasn't been changed. When I look at Repetier, both heaters are off. I can turn them back on and the temperature goes back to normal on both bed and extruder. Looking at the last print, there appears nothing wrong with it up to the point it shut down, thickness of the filament seems consistent. The only thing I'veby Tocsin - Printing
I've just started experiencing the same problem myself. At first I thought USB because I was getting a communications error. I replaced the cable, the same problem happened about 5 mins into a 10 minute print. BTW I hate USB anyway, technically it was rubbish to start with, and the so-called upgrades have done nothing to improve what started life as a pile of junk. OK not USB. I decided to checkby Tocsin - Printing
Also having problems with USB. Mid print everything stops with a communications error in Repetier-Host. My first thought was the cable, which I've replaced. I then thought maybe there's a problem with firmware, so I tried updating, after 5 attempts I succeeded. Back to original setup with new cable, and again it stopped mid print (only a 10 minute test print). Now I'm going to try direct from theby Tocsin - Mechanics
OK not the PLA. It was the extruder cooling fan! I noticed during a test run that the fan wasn't running all the time, probably well under 50%. I traced it to a faulty joint in the fan itself. 2 minute job to open it up and re-solder. Print mentioned in the last post appears to be down to a problem with slicing.by Tocsin - Printing
Stripped a lot of the printer down, re-assembled, checking tightness and alignment. Re-installed firmware and software, making sure setting are ok. First layer of a 25mm test cube looked fine, 2nd layer reasonable 3rd under-extruded. Increased idler tension. 5 pretty good single layer perimeters, one on top of the other (not the way it was sliced), then an attempt to print another unsupported layby Tocsin - Printing
I'm currently looking at the extruder, which seems fine. I did try adjusting the idler tension, which didn't seem to make any difference. The toothed gear hasn't moved at all, and is tight, no slipping when I extrude. I'm going to go through my software and see if I made any mistakes on the settings. BTW I'm using Repetier-host, but slicing using Slic3r separately.by Tocsin - Printing
I've just changed reels of PLA. The new one won't play ball at all. Both the previous and the present are white 1.75mm. I've checked the sizes. The old averaged 1.75 over a metre length. The new averages 1.745. Everything else is the same, but I've now got the worst under extrusion imaginable. I've tried a new throat and nozzle, exactly the same. I've tried raising the temperature from my usual 2by Tocsin - Printing
I've been printing fine for a while, but over the last week, I've noticed that the perimeters and the top layers are not fusing. The first layer is fine. I'm using 1.75mm PLA, 210 C first layer, 200 subsequent layers. Bed 65 dropping to 60. Nozzle 0.3mm, layers 0.15mm. Two perimeters, three top and bottom. Bowden extruder, E3D hotend, layer cooling. Printing on glass with gluestick.by Tocsin - Printing
I have the same printer. Still waiting for the instructions manual (6 weeks). Still I engaged brain, did a bit of Googling, and managed to assemble. Actually there were very few real problems. The biggest was the X stepper mounting which disintegrated after a few days, the alignment of the motor was out anyway, so replaced with a steel slotted mounting. and the alignment of the Z limit switch, whby Tocsin - Prusa i3 and variants
I have been printing fine for several weeks using my Geetech, Bowden extrusion, E3 hotend and 0.3mm nozzle. I thought I'd change back to the original 0.4, after changing the settings in Repetier, and in Slic3r, the print was rubbish. It was under-extruding badly, whatever I did. I changed the settings back to 0.3, problem solved. I checked the extruded filament (PLA) and low-and-behold it was 0.3by Tocsin - General Mendel Topics
I've now tried adding a signature, see if that helps. I've run a variety of groups, using a whole range of systems from home-written scripts, through PHP, Yahoo, Facebook etc, without problems in the past.by Tocsin - General
This forum thinks I'm a BOT. I'm not, just a rather old-fashioned 68 year old.by Tocsin - General
Stuff for my wife's interests at the moment, model railways and doll's house related items. I've started on a laser scanner. Been held up by the printing issues. Electronics is done.by Tocsin - General
Now to put my other hat on, I'm a keen constructor of electronics, in particular in amateur radio. Noise from computer PSUs is a common problem in all kinds of areas. Most problems are due to relatively high frequencies and spikey pulses. You won't need big capacitors (in fact they will do nothing at all). Start off with something like 100nF across the 5V line, maybe paralleled with 100uFd at 25Vby Tocsin - General
After 3 weeks I finally got what I regard as a great print. Took a long time and lots of advice. Today I decided re-calibrate everything, check mechanics. Replace throat. Ease path of filament to extruder. Increase extrusion rate by a small amount. Reduce printing speeds all by about 15 percent from nominal in Slic3r. Drop temperatures, using PLA, extruder now at 200 and bed at 60. The biggest pby Tocsin - General