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RepRap Forum to the rescue once again! This information was exactly what I was looking for.
For reference, I am now running Marlin 2.0.5.2 and the relevant section in Configuration_adv.h looks like this:
#if EITHER(ULTIPANEL, EXTENSIBLE_UI)
#define MANUAL_FEEDRATE { 50*60, 30*60, 4*60, 4*60 } // Feedrates for manual moves along X, Y, Z, E from panel
My E3D BigBox printer has different gearin
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richgain
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Reprappers
What speed are you printing at? The position of those bumps makes me wonder if it could be 'ringing' - a kind of oscillation of the print head after turning a sharp corner. If so, printing slower or decreasing your acceleration settings should reduce it.
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richgain
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Mendel90
The other important factor to remember is that our toroidal fan ducts deliberately don't point at the nozzle. Printing the tip of a pyramid is hard because eventually the travel distance gets so small, the cooling air never actually passes over the apex.
This is the other reason why printing multiple copies helps a lot. Not only does it slow the printing down, but also it forces the cooling fan t
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richgain
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Mendel90
Thanks, that's interesting Chris. I've not tried M82 before and wasn't aware of what it could do. I will have to investigate further.
Richard
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richgain
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Mendel90
The latest version of Cura (13.6.4) has a completely new engine. It doesn't use skeinforge code any more which is why the settings folder has gone.
This effectively prevents any machine that uses relative extrusions distances (the only sensible option, in my opinion) from using Cura.
Your options are:
1. Request Relative E as a new option - I have done this. 2. Download and install an older versi
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richgain
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Mendel90
Thanks Chris
Absolutely right.
The X and Z certainly weren't at 90 degrees to each other.
I hadn't released quite how warped the base of my attempt at a reprinted X idler bracket was.
I spent some time tuning up and resurrecting the eMaker Huxley and used that to print another idler bracket. The Mendel90 should be up and running again soon.
Richard
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richgain
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Mendel90
Hi Chris, I'm having some problems with my Mendel90 and I wonder if you can help.
I recently switched to GT2 belts and pulleys and so had to reprint the X carriage and the other belt-supporting parts. I got everything going OK until I noticed a large crack in the X idler bracket (still the original one) in the plastic supporting the X idler bolt. The printer was still working well, so I quickly p
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richgain
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Mendel90
Wrinkling like that can be a symptom of over-extrusion. When the layer is stuffed full there is nowhere else for the hot plastic to go except upwards! A wrinkle relieves the pressure briefly so the next few passes seem better and then the space runs out again and you get another wrinkle. The problem gets progressively worse with successive layers because there is even less room than there should
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richgain
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Mendel90
Some of the information you want is listed on the wiki.
richgain
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richgain
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Mendel90
I just downloaded the latest version of Cura and there is no Cura\slice\cura_sf folder any more.
Does that mean we don't have the Relative E option any more?
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richgain
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Mendel90
Is this a new printer or one that was previously working well? Just trying to understand how that could have happened.
If it's new and poorly calibrated it could be over-extruding plastic. If there is a leak in the hot end the plastic could be coming out of the side.
First clean it up then try another print, watching closely to see what happens - maybe shoot a video of it at the same time.
I wou
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richgain
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Mendel90
Have a read of
The article you need starts on page 29.
richgain
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richgain
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Mendel90
I'm sorry Martin but nop head is 100% correct on this issue. Trying to constrain the free end of the threaded rod is always a bad idea.
What did sound like a better idea to me was this one - - although even then, with the right sort of flexible tubing in the connector, it probably won't make a huge difference.
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richgain
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Mendel90
Did you mean M83?
Set E codes relative while in Absolute Coordinates (G90) mode
This is what the first 5 rows of my Slic3r generated gcode look like:
G21 ; set units to millimeters
M107
G28 ; home all axes
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; use relative distances for extrusion
More codes in here:
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richgain
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Mendel90
Well, I got there in the end. I spent the weekend designing and printing a new fan duct with a larger hole and a lower profile that would fit the E3D hot end. I still had to tweak a few parameters to get the extrusion to cool flat but now it's working nicely again. It's good to be back!
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richgain
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Competitions
Well, anyone who managed a successful print in this competition is a winner in my book. My complete failure to get past even the first level proved to me just how difficult it was, although I have to concede that attempting to print steep overhangs with out a part-cooling fan was rather foolhardy on my part, but my new E3D hot end with its active cooling and my Mendel90 ducted fan just don't play
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richgain
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Competitions
Another day, another failure.
Has anyone succeeded in printing this object without using a fan? (Did I mention I'm really missing my ducted fan?)
Last chance time. Competition closes at the end of Saturday 11th.
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richgain
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Competitions
This really is quite hard, isn't it! Here's my second failure.
Black ABS at 230C, heated bed at 110C, 0.4 mm nozzle
0.2 mm layers with 0.4 mm extrusion width at 30 mm/s
2 perimeters, 0% infill
I'm still getting used to the new nozzle and missing my ducted fan
I'll keep trying.
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richgain
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Competitions
Very impressive entry from Dirty Steve! Still plenty of time to enter though and no clear winner yet.
And if you do succeed in making one (or several) don't forget to click the 'I made one' link on Thingiverse and show Ninosman your support for the design.
richgain
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richgain
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Competitions
Great start, Twisted!
What are your current retraction settings (speed and length)?
And what is your travel speed (head movement when not printing)?
richgain
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richgain
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Competitions
Just a quick notification that I have posted a new challenge in the Competitions section.
Join in and show us what your printer is capable of.
richgain
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richgain
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General
I promised to try and set a new challenge to follow my success in Iceman's Caged Bird competition so here it is.
I was browsing on Thingiverse today and came across Ninosman's Bi-Cube ( ).
Only two copies are showing on the 'I made one' section and I think it deserves more than that. I am working away from home again at the moment so I won't get a chance to print one for a while, but I'd lov
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richgain
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Competitions
Hi Jan
Thanks so much for your appreciation, and for another great challenge. I've only just got back home from working away all week so I'm looking forward to doing a bit of printing this weekend. Credit, as usual, goes to nophead for designing such a solid, reliable machine, but I'll take the bragging rights for the build and setting up - there's always more things to improve! I've just bought
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richgain
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Competitions
Just a little acetone vapour bird-bath!
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richgain
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Competitions
I found this one quite tricky. The thin posts were prone to breaking (even with 0.2 mm of Z lift) and the top melted without a double fan blowing on the Huxley. My Mendel90 has been out of action after an upgrade to the fan duct was immediately followed by a total power supply failure. Anyway, it's all back in in working order now with a better cooling fan, and just in time to have one final try
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richgain
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Competitions
Assuming your hot end came with a 100k thermistor and that it is currently cold, 12k seems on the low side.
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richgain
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Mendel90
Disconnect the thermistor from the Melzi and put a resistance meter across the two leads.
What resistance is the thermistor registering?
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richgain
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Mendel90
I agree with Bob. Too much plastic.
If you are still using Repetier Host, just head for the Flowrate slider under Manual Control and try reprinting at 95%, 90% or even 85%.
You'll quickly see the difference that reducing the excess plastic will make.
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richgain
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Mendel90
Yes, I used a small amount of spray mount adhesive on the paper and left it to dry a little until it just had a slight tackiness left. That way it leaves no residue on the board.
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richgain
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Mendel90
Hi Alan
I always wind my filament back out by hand because I like to have a feel for whether it is stuck or not. I usually need to add a little manual traction to the filament to get it back out, maybe just a result of the internal profile of the hot end. A few times I tried sending commands for auto-retraction and the hobbed bolt ended up stripping the filament.
Your high speed reverses are re
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richgain
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Mendel90
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