So I have this idea, might be too much to be worth it tho I am building an enclosed HEVO and plan to install a heating system to maintain 50c-70c temp for ABS printing. Duet Wifi btw... The design is for a dual extruder single hotend setup. This will leave the second hotend PWM mosfet output and thermistor input unused. I will be building for 24v so I was thinking if I used two 12v 50 wattby JustSumGuy - Duet
Exactly as obewan said, the default for MOST setups (assuming that is what is in use) is (Power outputs: Hotend, Fan, Bed) so the setup expects the fan to be on the second hotend controller and routes all the fan commands to that output.by JustSumGuy - Printing
yay Thanx for that effort DC42 its like a Christmas present!!by JustSumGuy - Duet
On MOST 8 bit controllers, yes. Give it a try, it cant hurt your fan as the heater output is the same as your PSU puts into your controller and your fan I assume is the same voltage as your power supply right? The hotend is just a PWM controlled psu connection where it can pass amperage high enough for a heater cartridge. Thus it controls a fan without breaking a sweatby JustSumGuy - Printing
Quoteprintjunkie I must say the lead screws were the best 15 bucks I have spent in a long time. Coupled with the cooling fan-woah!!!! The quality is incredible! The M500 gcode worked. I only have one more problem to fix. My cooling fans(both the 2 pin and the 3pin) get power and push air. I can't change the speed. The fan is plugged into the fan3 port on the board and runs no matter if the fan iby JustSumGuy - Printing
sorry I did not get back in here for a while, glad you got help and it worked out. Did I read in there that the lead screw you ended up with has an 8mm travel per 360 degree turn? I had believed it was a 2mm pitch.... Obewan has given you good info on how to save the M92 value via M500by JustSumGuy - Printing
several things possible. There is no change in programing tho, no line in marlin will fix this. First was this working ok before? IF so what changed? look at changes first. Then if this is a new build or a printer your just getting figured out. Look at this: the most common problem to make a motor hot is having the driver voltage up too high. Make sure your system is not binding up someby JustSumGuy - Firmware - Marlin
Quotejbolt My bed is 1/4 aluminum so it is clamped to the back edge similar to the example in this thread, fourth post down. tqvmby JustSumGuy - Duet
Quotejbolt No I have not set a static IP. When the board won't connect I can query the IP address in Simplify3D via USB with M552 and it will show the router assigned IP but will not connect until I remove the 24vdc power. I am also using the recommended USB isolator for ground loops. I prefer not to have the USB hooked up at all since it applies power to the board when the main power is off. Ifby JustSumGuy - Duet
Quotejbolt I'm using a NTE8182 thermal fuse with a 192c cutoff. It was recommended by others to stay away from the no-name imports from China due to inconsistencies. I am sure its made in china regardless, I dont buy into that hype and after spending thousands on aliexpress over the last decade I haven't experienced it either. That said, how did you mount it? just put it under the heat bed?by JustSumGuy - Duet
Is 1.20 close to ready? My build is still a ways from trials and I am wondering if I will start with 1.19.2 or 1.20by JustSumGuy - Duet
Quoteprintjunkie These are the lead screws that I bought. Is the pitch the "lead of thread" or the "screw spacing"? Specification: Brand new Material: stainless steel lead screw, copper nut Screw diameter: approx. 8mm Length: approx. 100mm/ 150mm/ 200mm/ 250mm /300mm /350mm/ 400mm /500mm/ 600mm Screw spacing: approx. 2mm Lead of thread: approx. 8mm Rangeby JustSumGuy - Printing
Quoteviren Quotedc42 ..... The benefits of 24V power are: 1. It halves the current you need for the heated bed compared to using 12V power. This is an advantage if you have a large or powerful bed heater. An alternative is to use an AC mains voltage bed heater. ....... Half the current or Double the current ?....Let me verify my understanding and clarify my basic - I may be grossly wrong here.by JustSumGuy - RAMPS Electronics
Quotedc42 QuoteJustSumGuy something like this: just held onto the bottom of the hot bed and wired in series I take it? Yes, but pick a lower temperature one because 260C is too hot for a silicone heater. I read 200c in that link... I have a 24v MK3by JustSumGuy - Duet
just for kicks rotate the object 45 degrees and see what you get.....by JustSumGuy - Printing
something like this: just held onto the bottom of the hot bed and wired in series I take it?by JustSumGuy - Duet
Not sure if that's someones theory or what, I ran my 12864 off my ramps with no mods for many months before the ramps power connector fried. My original mega is still fine and I could have just replaced the ramps but I had an MKS Gen 1.4 in the drawer so I started using that instead.by JustSumGuy - RAMPS Electronics
heatshrink the wire is a good idea, I would. I am mostly a marlin user with an astro print server and slice with Cura3 I only played with repiter host for about 20 min and went a different way have you used and g codes yet? There should be a place to send g codes directly to your printer in the repiter host. Then you will have to use a calculator to determine the e-steps for your axis basby JustSumGuy - Printing
Quoteviren Ouch ! I don't know how to thank you all people. But you saved me - literally. But than in actual sense, is it really a good idea to convert to 24 V because if it is so, why the RAMPS is basically 12 V design ? Best Regards Viren IMO its really NOT a good idea to convert a Ramps to 24v. If your really on a budget spend the extra $5 or $8 and get the MKS Gen 1.4 as its 24v readyby JustSumGuy - RAMPS Electronics
you may be seeing the IP table on your router that is left over from the last time the IP was polled from the DHCP component of the router. It does not mean the router actually assigned the address on the controllers last boot. If you cannot ping this address when the controller is powered up, the controller did not receive its address on the last boot. The address will not change as the DHCP asby JustSumGuy - Duet
Quoteobewan If you mean a part cooling fan, this is usually connected to the 2nd extruder heater output(if your board has one). and is controlled via the slicer software I think he is mostly concerned with the signal wire, this is used to report back to the interface the actual RPM the fan is doing. Since most controllers just change the voltage of the fan to change the speed and don't have actby JustSumGuy - Printing
Quotedc42 That setting is only relevant to GCode commands received from USB or Telnet. Its main purpose is to make the responses similar to the ones Marlin provides so that programs such as Pronterface understand them. So setting it is only relevant to USB communication to an outside device like octopi or astro print, pronterface etc and as pretty much all of them recognize both marlin and RepRaby JustSumGuy - Duet
QuoteAverybot Ok then, how else would I level my bed on my printer? It's the HyperCube printer on Thingiverse, and about 155 people have successfully made this design with it printing. I think it might be something with Cura, since the Initial Layer Height is set to 0.3mm, but if I change it, it makes the extruder work slower resulting in a horrible first layer. That's where I'm stuck, and the pby JustSumGuy - Printing
yes don't worry about the signal pin just leave it open. as far as those that find threaded rod adequate, there are many cases where things can do a job. Making something work does not mean it will work properly. Make the rod straight and you may reach a level of performance you find acceptable sure. Use the right part instead for a very low price and you can rule out many future issues andby JustSumGuy - Printing
DC42 and Dust are way more knowledgeable than I on these things, but I have a fair bit of electronics background and I would NEVER run a resistive element on double the designed voltage and trust that a switching device would flip it on and off at a high rate of speed to compensate! DONT DO IT!!! get a 24v heat cartridge....by JustSumGuy - RAMPS Electronics
What advantage or disadvantages are there to the different Firmware compatibility choices? P value Firmware 0 Native 1 RepRap_Firmware 2 Marlin 3 Teacup 4 Sprinter 5 Repetier I see the RRF Configuration Tool defaults to Marlin, tho I wonder if this is in any way limiting abilities and if so what?by JustSumGuy - Duet
Can you recommend a thermal cutout for us plzby JustSumGuy - Duet
It does sound like Z wobble and since your printer is using threaded rod on your Z I am surprised you did not have the issue from day one. Threaded rod is 100% wrong for this application. Threaded rod is designed to be a way to fix things so they don't move, not what its being used for here! My printer came with a 3/8" threaded rod and it was my first fix to toss it... I don't know where you arby JustSumGuy - Printing
I use a skirt to clean and prime the head to start the print, this works well for me. for end of print I added gcode to do these functions and in this order - drop table by 5mm - retract filament - home x/y axis. EDIT: I just reread it, its on LAYER start and end not print start and end that your issue is! I use Cura slicer and there is a retraction on layer change setting in cura that shoulby JustSumGuy - Printing